'03 H6 1,3,5 misfire - Page 25 - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums
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post #241 of 265 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 01:01 AM
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Okay. I was just checking on the computer side, also work in the industry.


I typically idle at 12.6 when unloaded after a bit of driving, so that's not necessarily abnormal; and I'm assuming given the length of this thread that there's already been talk about checking ALL of the grounding straps and other large-gauge bits, as well as the bits of the harness, battery, etc. so I'll stop cluttering it up lol


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post #242 of 265 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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Okay. I was just checking on the computer side, also work in the industry.


I typically idle at 12.6 when unloaded after a bit of driving, so that's not necessarily abnormal; and I'm assuming given the length of this thread that there's already been talk about checking ALL of the grounding straps and other large-gauge bits, as well as the bits of the harness, battery, etc. so I'll stop cluttering it up lol
The wiring has been very heavily checked over, refreshed, etc. I do plan to do the big 3 ground upgrade, as i saw improvements in my other cars from doing it.
Im very out of ideas on this. It runs and drives so good with either o2's unplugged, i cant imagine its timing related. The electronics all check out. All i can really do is drive it until crap hits the fan.


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post #243 of 265 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 01:27 AM
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****, if it runs okay with a sensor unplugged, I'd just say run it that way until it dies. Cars the age of ours with no issues are hard to find. Even if it throws a light but runs normally otherwise, to hail with it, I say... but that's me and I'm weird.

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post #244 of 265 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 07:14 AM
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On the RR issue, is the RR not starting up or is it not connecting to your car? It may be definition related and RR isn't seeing a match to your car, in which case you would need definitions written for your car. I've used it on 7 and 10 without issues except where definitions are not in the directory.

So far, no way to kill the MIL with Gen 2 N/A in standard ECU Flash.


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post #245 of 265 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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On the RR issue, is the RR not starting up or is it not connecting to your car? It may be definition related and RR isn't seeing a match to your car, in which case you would need definitions written for your car. I've used it on 7 and 10 without issues except where definitions are not in the directory.

So far, no way to kill the MIL with Gen 2 N/A in standard ECU Flash.
On the 10 machine, it would connect and log just fine.
The 7 machines, RR itself runs, but can't connect to the ECU.

I mean, the car runs great. For having a 3" lift and 225/75/16 tires, it has great power and really good fuel economy. I just keep wondering if it would run even better if i could fix this issue.

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post #246 of 265 (permalink) Old 12-13-2018, 01:39 AM Thread Starter
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An update on this - i have put about 10k miles on it. It now has a decently loud knock that focuses on the 1/3/5 side. I have had a few opinions on it, the concensus is that it has rod knock. I sent off a sample to Blackstone, but it looks like a jdm swap is in the future.

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post #247 of 265 (permalink) Old 12-13-2018, 07:16 AM
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An update on this - i have put about 10k miles on it. It now has a decently loud knock that focuses on the 1/3/5 side. I have had a few opinions on it, the concensus is that it has rod knock. I sent off a sample to Blackstone, but it looks like a jdm swap is in the future.
If it's toward the front it could be the chain slapping on a guide or the tensioner. This would cause the cam to be out of time and create misfires, low power, etc..

Engine swap is usually the quickest repair and often times it's lower cost.


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post #248 of 265 (permalink) Old 12-13-2018, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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An update on this - i have put about 10k miles on it. It now has a decently loud knock that focuses on the 1/3/5 side. I have had a few opinions on it, the concensus is that it has rod knock. I sent off a sample to Blackstone, but it looks like a jdm swap is in the future.
If it's toward the front it could be the chain slapping on a guide or the tensioner. This would cause the cam to be out of time and create misfires, low power, etc..

Engine swap is usually the quickest repair and often times it's lower cost.
It has plenty of power and pulls strong. Supposedly the timing guides, tensioner, and chain were done when the headgaskets were.

The sound seems to be originating from the crankcase itself, though much louder towards passenger side. It doesn't seem to be coming from the timing area.

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post #249 of 265 (permalink) Old 12-14-2018, 06:54 AM
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It has plenty of power and pulls strong. Supposedly the timing guides, tensioner, and chain were done when the headgaskets were.

The sound seems to be originating from the crankcase itself, though much louder towards passenger side. It doesn't seem to be coming from the timing area.
You can use a length of hose or a wood dowel as a stethoscope to pinpoint where the sound is originating. Just have either long enough that you don't have to lean way over the engine. One end on the block, heads, timing cover, the other end to your ear.


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post #250 of 265 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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Sent out an oil analysis, came back as being very good for the mileage.

Thinking it 'may' have the fuel pump o ring issue. As i get to 1/2 tank, it runs rougher. Sometime between 1/2 and 1/4, it will spit, sputter, and stall out like it runs out of gas.
I have verified, the gauge is spot on. Half tank takes 8 gallons to fill from.

This would show up on the pressure gauge, wouldn't it? Thinking of siphoning gas out until its low, see what it reads for pressure.


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