02 OB VDC H6 auto Miss fires on cyl 2-4-6 (bank2) - Page 2 - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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Will do, also this car has really bad corrosion on positive and negative cables. The positive is making seriously poor contact. That will be first on the list when I get it back.

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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 12:29 PM
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Will do, also this car has really bad corrosion on positive and negative cables. The positive is making seriously poor contact. That will be first on the list when I get it back.
such I think would make for misfires on all cylinders, and over all crappy running in the engine / trans.

I would be interested in pulling the plugs with some anti-sieze in hand, and looking at 2-4-6 look vs. 1-3-5.

these cars take NGK double platinum. (coil on plugs last a long long long time, even if tied on).


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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 03:50 PM
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I had a bank 1 misfire on my car - the RH exhaust cam jumped a tooth. It actually broke the teeth clean off the exhaust sprocket. A bolt from the timing chain guides fell into the sprocket / chain and I got a junkyard cam sprocket to fix it.

The two things that lead me to conclude it was timing (as there is no timing inspection port on these cars):
1. 10% variance in pressure in the compression test (155 on bank 2, 140 on bank 1. This was extremely consistent across cylinders)
2. During the leakdown test, it sealed up about 10* past TDC. At TDC it leaked 80%. The exhaust valve was closing late. Thankfully it did not collide with the piston.

You can rent a compression tester from the parts stores. I would start there and move onto leakdown. My car ran like CRAP when this issue occurred. Runs like a champ now. I find it's much easier to get the compression tester and spark plugs into the spark plug well from below the car... YMMV
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-21-2019, 09:02 AM
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This isn't enough to go on:

Monitor coolant level in the radiator (not the overflow) and see how much you're using over many months and checks, not just once or twice.
This is not a good way to determine coolant loss through either a leak or HG. Personally, I don't want to wait for a long period of time to see if a HG is leaking because that just means more damage to a head or the block through constant compression bypass and detonation.

@Mattattack34

Well done on the purchase. The VDC is a bad ass and the engine is hard to kill if you pay attention to it. If it comes to needing major engine work to correct it, replacement H6s are available for under $1000 and can be swapped in a day.

First off, I'd go get the car from the shop that condemned the computer and told you it needed a reflash upon installation. He's wrong. Up to 04 it's plug and play, no VIN writing necessary and the computers rarely, very rarely, fail on this generation. Someone may brick one in attempting reflash/reprogramming or water intrusion would kill it, but otherwise, no. You can pull up the carpet on the front passenger side, remove the cover (10 mm bolts) and look for signs of water or corrosion on the plugs.

If it isn't overheating and your not experiencing sporadic interior heat loss, I'd get the battery and cable condition corrected. Corroded cables and a weak battery will cause all kinds of problems.

Next would be to pull a plug on the bank 2 side and check it's condition. The deposits on the plug is an indication as to what is going on.

Then you look close at the injector harness for chaffing, cracks, wear, teeth marks. Check for injector rail or injector seal leaks. These injectors also have seals for vacuum at the top and bottom and if they are dried out, installed wrong from previous work, or whatever, it inhibits injector abilities to spray proper.

Check the coil harness for the same.

These H6s will run with a vacuum leak since it's MAP operated and not MAF. You can still check for leaks as consistent and equal air flow improves performance.

If none of the above results in a repair that works, then you go to the knock sensor, AF sensor function and compression testing along with a thorough check for a head gasket leak. In checking the HG, use a funnel like a quick fill funnel and have the car running where you can observe if air bubbles are present in the funnel, especially after the thermostat opens. You can also determine HG issue from AF data if the AF sensor is working proper. The side with the water leak will be adding fuel to compensate for the higher oxygen content in the combustion from the water.

Data logging is always a good idea and may help you later in the life of the car as things come up. If you have a laptop, look in to Rom Raider and a VAG-COM KKL cable. The software is easy to use and learn from.


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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-21-2019, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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So got the H6 back from the questionable mechanic who condemned the computer. He changed his mind after all, he diagnosed it as a timing chain skip. He was very vague with the testing he did, and pissed me off because he didn’t take out the bolt I stripped on the fuel rail cover. Wtf?!?! Said he figured I wouldn’t want that done because the whole engine needs to come out. So took it back, got snarky with him and told him to get it done. They do and don’t charge me even though they said they would. Cool, now it’s back in my hands and I decide to continue on despite their diagnosis, on to the fuel rail! I find that the diaphragm/dampener on the end of the fuel rail toward the front of the car is totally black covered in presumably dirt and fuel. After finding this and ranting to my girlfriend about terrible crook mechanics for some time I come here and attached what I found. I looked at all other wiring and seals pretty closely this along with another couple vacuum leaks( pcv and I’m not sure what else but it was right next to the pcv) all this found on the driver side after removing the fuel rail cover. This is what I will be tackling next, on my own! Thank you to everyone for the input! Will update soon with results...
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-21-2019, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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So got the H6 back from the questionable mechanic who condemned the computer. He changed his mind after all, he diagnosed it as a timing chain skip. He was very vague with the testing he did, and pissed me off because he didn’t take out the bolt I stripped on the fuel rail cover. Wtf?!?! Said he figured I wouldn’t want that done because the whole engine needs to come out. So took it back, got snarky with him and told him to get it done. They do and don’t charge me even though they said they would. Cool, now it’s back in my hands and I decide to continue on despite their diagnosis, on to the fuel rail! I find that the diaphragm/dampener on the end of the fuel rail toward the front of the car is totally black covered in presumably dirt and fuel. After finding this and ranting to my girlfriend about terrible crook mechanics for some time I come here and attached what I found. I looked at all other wiring and seals pretty closely this along with another couple vacuum leaks( pcv and I’m not sure what else but it was right next to the pcv) all this found on the driver side after removing the fuel rail cover. This is what I will be tackling next, on my own! Thank you to everyone for the input! Will update soon with results...
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-22-2019, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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Can anyone name that part on the previously attached pics? I am having difficulty finding that part
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-22-2019, 11:19 AM
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Looks like the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Part #22670AA221.
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-22-2019, 04:15 PM
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Check the fuel hoses' condition also. Especially around the clamps. Those hoses can be a bugger to get off the rails and pipes.


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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-22-2019, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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Seems like I will need to take the fuel rail semi off to get to me as well...

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