2001 H6, multiple oil leaks, advice - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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2001 H6, multiple oil leaks, advice

Hello again.
Whenever I've been underneath my sweet Kuma-chan in the past (got him at 170k) I've seen evidence of the possibility of leaking oil. In the beginning I took it to the stealership once and paid a lot of money to have them tell me that it's my timing chain cover and valve covers. I did just the valve covers myself on the thought that oil from there was creeping over to the timing covers and masquerading as a second leak. That or a mess from a past timing chain service hadn't been cleaned up (I'm hoping that service was actually done when it was supposed to because I've been hoping to put it off til 200k). Then I replaced the oil cooler gasket as that was very clearly an active leak. However I was still seeing drips on the oil cooler and determined that the oil pressure switch was leaking. So I replaced that and sealed it according to the fsm as well. Come this current oil change however I'm seeing more evidence of active leaks. It doesn't look like I can deny the chain covers anymore and probably the oil drain pan as well. The drain pan isn't really an issue to do and I'm slowly convincing myself that if I take out the radiator the chain cover(s) won't be so bad either. HOWEVER. It also looks like the inner oil pan might be leaking and maybe even the cylinder head gaskets. And those are things I don't believe I'd be able to do without removing or at least lifting the engine and I'm not equipped for that. I don't have a hoist, or a transmission jack, or actually a garage.
So I guess my question is: at this point is it even worth it attempting to fix these leaks or should I bite the bullet and replace the engine with a jdm? I have been prepared to do that in the event that my head gaskets go. From what I understand a replacement may cost in the range of $1200. I'll add some photos when I get back to my desktop since the site resets whenever I try to upload from my phone. Thanks in advance (for reading this giant text block)!

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 02:23 PM
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replaced the PCV valve? a gummy one might increase the severity of any leaks.

if you're diligent, you could just keep the oil topped up. How much oil would the cost of an engine buy?


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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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yeah, I replaced the pcv valve a couple of months ago. Just keeping the oil topped up would be fine I suppose but I'd imagine that eventually the leaks would get worse to a point where I'd run the risk of running dry in a very short amount of time.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Also I just took the opportunity after posting this to reseal my oil pan so I guess I'll see what difference that makes.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 04:17 PM
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Did you change the oil cooler seal? That seal is the #1 leak on the EZ30. Next would be the valve covers. The oil pan is glued to the block and I've yet to see one leak.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 07:08 PM
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Also, the oil pressure sensor by the oil cooler also leaks.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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yep. swapped out the both of those. also it may be unrelated but now my idle runs very noticeably rough. but more so in gear than park or neutral. I've checked my oil multiple times in the past couple of days and it's been spot on. although this morning before I left for work somehow it appeared to be ludicrously overfilled .
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 04:43 PM
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Were you on a slant?

Idle could be any of the vacuum hoses and the ECM is hunting with the IAC (idle control motor) to maintain steady idle. Erratic idle is one of the ways you know you may have a vacuum leak on the EZ30. That and knock at high rpm.

Did you disconnect any vacuum related hoses up top for anything? Is the MIL on?


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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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No, I was on about as level a plane as anywhere. I did check again before leaving work and it was back to looking normal. The only things I removed from my car were the oil pan and drain plug and the filler cap, no hoses of any kind. Thinking about how the the vibration is greater in intensity in gear than park or neutral I decided to change my AT fluid as since the last time I did it has also looked ludicrously high whenever I check it. And I did everything as the fsm instructs (except I used about 4 to 4 1/2 quarts instead of the 9.8 it lists. don't know why it doesn't remind the reader that they aren't draining the trans dry). Anyway I measured what I drained this time and used about half a quart less. After driving around I checked it and it's a little under the full mark. Of course since it's me now there's a loud rattling coming from below while in gear. I'm hoping it's just the heat shield again but wow what are these coincidences. Also that didn't fix the rough idle. My drive and park idle rpms seem to have reversed though. While I was warming up the trans the my rpm was around 650 while stationary in drive and 750/780 in park. The timing advance is still as it should be and my temp is normal. I'm not getting any codes or lights, just the mechanical weirdness. I did forget to check for drips while I was below since I was focused on the vibration and it looked like it was about to start storming outside. I won't be able to check again until Sunday or Monday.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-19-2019, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AkuPen View Post
.... (post trimmed).... That or a mess from a past timing chain service hadn't been cleaned up (I'm hoping that service was actually done when it was supposed to because I've been hoping to put it off til 200k). ........

I didn't know a timing CHAIN needed to be serviced ...


That's why I bought an Outback with the H6, instead of the H4, which has a timing belt that does need replacing.


What does a timing CHAIN service consist of, and at what mileage should it be done?


2004 Subaru Outback
LL Bean Edition
H6 3.0 AT
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