2017 Outback Battery DEAD - Page 17 - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums
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post #161 of 411 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Chapman View Post
I know this is an old thread but thought I would share my experience. Have a new Outback 2.5. Car had a dead battery on three occasions. Dealer could not get any objective evidence that the battery was bad or that their were any other problems. After the third trip to the dealer I started pushing harder for a resolution and the dealer referred me to Subaru of America Customer Retailer Services - 1-800-782-2783. Talked with them and asked for a new higher CCA battery. They said they would investigate and get back to me in a week. They did and advised that they could not buy an new battery but would send me a VISA debit card for $100 and a $250 certificate for parts/service from the dealer. So I bought a replacement battery from NAPA for $90 with about 750 CCA instead of the original battery's 365CCA and have had no dead battery problems since. I live in Michigan's Upper Peninsula where it gets cold.



I was not happy with the dealer's response to the problem but was happy with Subaru of America's response.


Nice job - better than most responses!

BTW there is no such thing as an "old" dead battery thread on this forum

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post #162 of 411 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 11:32 AM
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The dealers hands are tied, unless they are willing to eat that cost of the new battery. The battery must test bad for Subaru to cover it under warranty.

I am going through this right now, two dead battery problems in two weeks. The last was while my wife had the car and needed to car Subaru roadside.

I called my dealer and they told me to call Subsru customer care. Customer care called my dealer and told them to call them if the battery tested good. So, it sounds like the are "thinking " about replacing my battery.

I will post my result after my appointment with the dealer on Wed.

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post #163 of 411 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 11:34 AM
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Group 24 or 34?

I see most people posting that their replacements are Group 34, with a fewer number opting for Group 24. Is there a specific reason for group 34 being a much more popular alternative than, say, group 24 (e.g., availability, or other aspects)? My understanding is that both groups will fit in a 2017 Outback, with the group 24 being a 'closer fit' to the original group 25 than the 34 ...

In another thread (bigger battery group size), @Fibber2 has some good points regarding his decision to opt for a group 24 replacement. Interstate (Johnson Controls) specs the MTP-24, for instance, as having the same CCA (800), CA (1000), but more reserve capacity (125 minutes) than the MTP-34 (110 minutes). Is there something inherently better about the group 35 vs. the group 24 battery?

Just wondering if I'm missing anything ...

Thanks!
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post #164 of 411 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 11:40 AM
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You answered your own question.

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post #165 of 411 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by shkumar4963 View Post
Isn't 70 mA still too high? This may be the max allowed but in practice it should be 20 mA or less.
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Originally Posted by shkumar4963 View Post
That will show how long the car can be left standing and will still start.
When approaching a problem like this you generally use the worst case nominal unless you have a better idea what is typical. If you don't have a reliable measure of it for a specific car, it's best to assume worst case.

Given the number the number of things still running when the car is "off", coupled with the number of of dead battery reports, I suspect that dark current is much closer to 70 mA than 20 mA.
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post #166 of 411 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mcausus View Post
I see most people posting that their replacements are Group 34, with a fewer number opting for Group 24. Is there a specific reason for group 34 being a much more popular alternative than, say, group 24 (e.g., availability, or other aspects)? My understanding is that both groups will fit in a 2017 Outback, with the group 24 being a 'closer fit' to the original group 25 than the 34 ...

In another thread (bigger battery group size), @Fibber2 has some good points regarding his decision to opt for a group 24 replacement. Interstate (Johnson Controls) specs the MTP-24, for instance, as having the same CCA (800), CA (1000), but more reserve capacity (125 minutes) than the MTP-34 (110 minutes). Is there something inherently better about the group 35 vs. the group 24 battery?

Just wondering if I'm missing anything ...

Thanks!
I think it's a combination of brand loyalty followed by CCA/reserve capacity specs. For instance, I decided I wanted an Optima yellow top battery. They don't make a group 24. So my choices were group 75/25 w/ 620 CCA & 100 min reserve capacity or a 78/34 with 750 CCA and 120 min reserve capacity. Since bigger is always better, I went with the 34. I could easily be swayed to another manufacturer's group 24 though - it's just that group 34 seems like a more commonly available size.


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post #167 of 411 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 12:33 PM
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If you don't have a reliable measure of it for a specific car, it's best to assume worst case.
Exactly. All Subaru says is that dark current "should" be 70ma or less. You'll never know the typical value for your specific vehicle ... with your specific options ... until you take a good quality meter and actually measure it for yourself. There's no substitute for your own data.

FWIW, measured dark current in my 2015 Legacy is 30-40ma, but even then there is a +/-10ma measurement uncertainty due to the precision of the clamp-on Hall-effect current sensor I used. Some day I might make a higher-precision dark current measurement, but for now it's enough to know that it's below 70ma.

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post #168 of 411 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ammcinnis View Post
Exactly. All Subaru says is that dark current "should" be 70ma or less. You'll never know the typical value for your specific vehicle ... with your specific options ... until you take a good quality meter and actually measure it for yourself. There's no substitute for your own data.

FWIW, measured dark current in my 2015 Legacy is 30-40ma, but even then there is a +/-10ma measurement uncertainty due to the precision of the clamp-on Hall-effect current sensor I used. Some day I might make a higher-precision dark current measurement, but for now it's enough to know that it's below 70ma.


That is probably the cause of dead battery problem in OB. The dark current in my LEXUS is between 10 to 20 mA.


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post #169 of 411 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 01:20 PM
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I left a map light on at the airport and the battery was draining/drained for over a week, '16 OB 2.5. That's gotta take some life out of the pitiful thing and since the OB batteries are so marginal anyway, I will have Costco drop in a new one at the next opportunity. In the meantime, I bought a mini-jumper similar to one posted earlier.
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post #170 of 411 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shkumar4963 View Post
That is probably the cause of dead battery problem in OB.
What basis do you have for that claim ... other than intuition?

Quote:
The dark current in my LEXUS is between 10 to 20 mA.
So what? An Outback is not a Lexus.


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