Gen5: Replacing the original battery with BETTER - Page 3 - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums
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post #21 of 823 (permalink) Old 12-09-2016, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by AvidHiker View Post
Aaaaaand the OP does, in fact, have a 3.6!
So he does. Just further reason to replace or prepare to replace your Outback battery with a much more powerful battery.
I have the 2.5i and I plan to replace with an Interstate MTP 35 Mega-Tron Plus 800 cranking amps/640 CCA if I have the first trouble. Seems to be the best price point.


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post #22 of 823 (permalink) Old 12-09-2016, 07:31 PM
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Personally, I would just make your battery a 3 year preventive maintenance item. This is what I do. Have not had a battery die on me in 16 years using this method. Why pay double for an AGM?

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post #23 of 823 (permalink) Old 12-10-2016, 12:36 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, many have.
Search is your friend.
I saw some "dead" battery threads, but wrongly assumed they were dead for a different reason.
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post #24 of 823 (permalink) Old 12-10-2016, 06:07 AM
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Personally, I would just make your battery a 3 year preventive maintenance item. This is what I do. Have not had a battery die on me in 16 years using this method. Why pay double for an AGM?
Because many of us would prefer not to contribute to needless hazardous waste if we can avoid it. Recycled or not, returning working batteries and replacing with new is wasteful. At least that's my reason. I run them until they die. The OEM battery in my last Toyota lasted through 9 years of New England winters.

Yes, I replaced my battery in my 2.5 with an Optima yellow top group 34. But the OEM battery is happily powering a small solar setup in my shed where the demands are less: just a few fluorescent lights once in a while.
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post #25 of 823 (permalink) Old 12-10-2016, 06:55 AM
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Was doing some work on our 3.6 and after 2 hours with the dome lights on (yes, my fault for not shutting off) a dead battery quickly ensued. While charging I saw it had all of 490 CCA, which to me says it may be weak and underpowered.
CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) is the measure of the number of amps a battery can deliver at 0*F for 30 seconds and not drop below 7.2v. IOW, the rating is for very high amp draw over a very short period of time (as in starting the engine).
Your dead battery occurred as the result of a very different symptom; a low amp draw over a long period of time. This is a function of the battery's RC (Reserve Capacity) and/or Ah (amp hours) rating.

So while changing to a higher CCA battery may help start the car on a cold winter's morning, it has nothing to do with how long the battery will last with a parasitic drain.

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post #26 of 823 (permalink) Old 12-10-2016, 07:28 AM
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CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) is the measure of the number of amps a battery can deliver at 0*F for 30 seconds and not drop below 7.2v. IOW, the rating is for very high amp draw over a very short period of time (as in starting the engine).
Your dead battery occurred as the result of a very different symptom; a low amp draw over a long period of time. This is a function of the battery's RC (Reserve Capacity) and/or Ah (amp hours) rating.

So while changing to a higher CCA battery may help start the car on a cold winter's morning, it has nothing to do with how long the battery will last with a parasitic drain.
Excellent point. I think when talking batteries, most of us just fall back on the Cold Cranking Amps rating. Much like referring to an engine's horsepower rating when in reality it's the Torque rating that really counts.
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post #27 of 823 (permalink) Old 12-10-2016, 08:27 AM
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So while changing to a higher CCA battery may help start the car on a cold winter's morning, it has nothing to do with how long the battery will last with a parasitic drain.
While CCA and RC are by definition totally different measurements, there is a general correspondence between the two. A significant increase in CCA will provide a similarly significant increase in Reserve Capacity.
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post #28 of 823 (permalink) Old 12-10-2016, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by papajam View Post
CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) is the measure of the number of amps a battery can deliver at 0*F for 30 seconds and not drop below 7.2v. IOW, the rating is for very high amp draw over a very short period of time (as in starting the engine).
Your dead battery occurred as the result of a very different symptom; a low amp draw over a long period of time. This is a function of the battery's RC (Reserve Capacity) and/or Ah (amp hours) rating.

So while changing to a higher CCA battery may help start the car on a cold winter's morning, it has nothing to do with how long the battery will last with a parasitic drain.
Makes sense. I can see why some get the "yellow" optima battery, which is apparently better for extended periods of draw.
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post #29 of 823 (permalink) Old 12-10-2016, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by GrumpySquatch View Post
Because many of us would prefer not to contribute to needless hazardous waste if we can avoid it. Recycled or not, returning working batteries and replacing with new is wasteful. At least that's my reason. I run them until they die. The OEM battery in my last Toyota lasted through 9 years of New England winters.

Yes, I replaced my battery in my 2.5 with an Optima yellow top group 34. But the OEM battery is happily powering a small solar setup in my shed where the demands are less: just a few fluorescent lights once in a while.
It is my understanding that not much in a used battery goes to waste. Over 99 percent of lead-acid battery components are recycled.
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Added LED backup, cargo, door courtesy lights and Lamin-X yellow film on LED fog lights. Nushield Dayvue antiglare screen, Soundproofed front/rear doors, floorboard, cargo floor, tailgate, cowl area & all wheel wells. 7/70 zero gold warranty


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post #30 of 823 (permalink) Old 12-10-2016, 09:24 AM
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While CCA and RC are by definition totally different measurements, there is a general correspondence between the two. A significant increase in CCA will provide a similarly significant increase in Reserve Capacity.
General relationship, perhaps with a significant increase in CCA. But it is not by any means a general rule.
As one example, the Interstate MTP-34 has a CCA rating of 800 amps and 110 minutes of RC while the 685 amp PF-34-6 has 120 minutes of RC. And they're both BCI group number 34.

Some have the misconception that a physically larger battery somehow must be better. This is not always the case. CCA and RC are determined by a number of factors to include number of plates, thickness of the plates, materials used, etc. So while a physically larger battery may have the room for more and larger plates doesn't mean it does. It's all about CCA and RC (and, of course, what will fit in the car).

Knowing the parasitic drain many of today's cars have, the RC may be more important than the CCA.


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