Gen5: Replacing the original battery with BETTER - Page 76 - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums
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post #751 of 809 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 10:35 PM
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I haven't looked at this topic for a while. jakemccoy sure has gotten a lot of "likes" on the voltmeter I suggested in post #204.

I get a chuckle out of it every time it pops back up. One of the best diagnostic tools you can own... for under $2.

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post #752 of 809 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by fendertweed View Post
Details / description of the hard-wire installation please? I see the photo but not crystal clear... thx.

Thanks.
Nothing fancy. I used a harness with ring terminals and an inline fuse something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The ring terminals are easily connected right at each battery terminal clamp.





The inline fuse is in the positive wire close to the battery.






The other end of the harness has a plug which fits the wire from the battery maintainer (Many brands seem to use the same plug but I'm sure some are different)





It isn't in the picture but there is a cap that goes on the end of the plug when it isn't being used. I also have a short extension wire that I was going to plug into that and run out through the front grille but decided not to use it. Since I don't plug the maintainer in very often I just open the hood and plug it in directly to the harness at the battery.




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post #753 of 809 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 03:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trip Enroute View Post
I haven't looked at this topic for a while. jakemccoy sure has gotten a lot of "likes" on the voltmeter I suggested in post #204.

I get a chuckle out of it every time it pops back up. One of the best diagnostic tools you can own... for under $2.
I think you are the one who introduced me. Yep, it probably has the highest usefulness/cost ratio of any diagnostic tool I own. Unfortunately, most car owners do not appreciate its value because they don’t understand what the various voltage readings mean. I saw one guy online complaining because his voltmeter was jumping from 12.5V to 14.1V after he started the engine (indicating a healthy battery and charging system). He thought the voltage was supposed to read 12.0 volts constantly.
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post #754 of 809 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danver View Post
Nothing fancy. I used a harness with ring terminals and an inline fuse something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The ring terminals are easily connected right at each battery terminal clamp.





The inline fuse is in the positive wire close to the battery.






The other end of the harness has a plug which fits the wire from the battery maintainer (Many brands seem to use the same plug but I'm sure some are different)





It isn't in the picture but there is a cap that goes on the end of the plug when it isn't being used. I also have a short extension wire that I was going to plug into that and run out through the front grille but decided not to use it. Since I don't plug the maintainer in very often I just open the hood and plug it in directly to the harness at the battery.


Thanks, all doable, just couldn't see various spots to be sure, so the additional photos etc. are a great help.
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post #755 of 809 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danver View Post
Nothing fancy. I used a harness with ring terminals and an inline fuse something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The ring terminals are easily connected right at each battery terminal clamp.




The inline fuse is in the positive wire close to the battery.






The other end of the harness has a plug which fits the wire from the battery maintainer (Many brands seem to use the same plug but I'm sure some are different)





It isn't in the picture but there is a cap that goes on the end of the plug when it isn't being used. I also have a short extension wire that I was going to plug into that and run out through the front grille but decided not to use it. Since I don't plug the maintainer in very often I just open the hood and plug it in directly to the harness at the battery.


Or you could be lazy like me and use the alligator clip leads. If I remember correctly the leads came with the Battery Tender Charger. Besides I didn't like the brand name "Sparking".
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post #756 of 809 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakemccoy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trip Enroute View Post
I haven't looked at this topic for a while. jakemccoy sure has gotten a lot of "likes" on the voltmeter I suggested in post #204.

I get a chuckle out of it every time it pops back up. One of the best diagnostic tools you can own... for under $2.
I think you are the one who introduced me. Yep, it probably has the highest usefulness/cost ratio of any diagnostic tool I own. Unfortunately, most car owners do not appreciate its value because they don’t understand what the various voltage readings mean. I saw one guy online complaining because his voltmeter was jumping from 12.5V to 14.1V after he started the engine (indicating a healthy battery and charging system). He thought the voltage was supposed to read 12.0 volts constantly.
You can also bring up system stats on the media center screen.
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post #757 of 809 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Dantrax View Post
Or you could be lazy like me and use the alligator clip leads. If I remember correctly the leads came with the Battery Tender Charger. Besides I didn't like the brand name "Sparking".
Nothing wrong with that, especially if you have the battery tender located right at the vehicle and there is little chance of the wire shorting or getting damaged. I have my battery tender plugged in inside my garage and run a 25ft extension wire from it to the battery. That is a pretty small wire that could easily get damaged and shorted. The maintainer will shut down itself if the wire shorts or the connection is lost, but that wire from the battery would still be live and would melt and light up like a toaster element and could very easily cause a fire. Having the inline fuse at the battery side protects that wire from melting if there is ever a dead short.


*edit* Looks like the one you posted the pic of with the alligator clip is fused as well. The ones I have don't have the inline fuse. Having the setup I have is also convenient like I set it up on my plow truck, which I plug in every time I am done plowing. That one I have running out through the front so I don't have to open the hood to connect or disconnect.
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post #758 of 809 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 01:42 PM
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That is a good point about the long red hard wire with no fuse. I have a Battery Tender that came with alligator clips and a fuse right next to the red clip. I bought it about a year ago. I think it also came with the plug option. If so, I put those wires in storage somewhere. Other good reasons for the plug option is if you have a battery that is hard to reach or if you want to set things up so popping the hood is unnecessary.
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post #759 of 809 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 01:56 PM
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A demonstration of why a fuse is a good idea.



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post #760 of 809 (permalink) Old 04-07-2019, 09:46 PM
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A demonstration of why a fuse is a good idea.



I do the same with winches,I also use and Anderson disconnect.

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