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Transmission prob with my 2013 Outback 3.6

6K views 12 replies 9 participants last post by  Brusay 
#1 ·
Having a transmission problem with my 2013 Outback 3.6, and have not been able to find another post about similar problem.

Shifting into Drive when the engine is cold results in a brief but delayed shift, and the shift itself is a pretty hard lurch - even occasionally a rocking forward/backward. The colder (engine and weather) the harder the shift. There is typically a thud type sound - no metal on metal sound. It is only when moving into Drive. Whether it's from Park to Drive, or from Reverse to Drive after backing out of the driveway. Moving into Reverse from Park when cold is not a problem. There are no other noticeable problems with the transmission, and once the engine is a bit warmed up, it will shift fairly smoothly.

I purchased the Outback used with about 35K miles on it. Currently has 130K, but have had this problem for at least the last 50-60k miles. I purchased the extended warranty, so had it checked out couple times pre 100K miles. Have had one dealer tell me nothing was wrong twice, and another had me do transmission flush/fluid change recently which had no effect.

Appreciate any help, thoughts, guidance. Been reluctant to try a Japanese auto specialist thinking the dealer should be best with tranny, but about out of options otherwise.
 
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#3 ·
I have a 2011 outback 3.6r (123000 miles) when the engine is cold, the blue light in the lower left corner is on it idles at approx 1500 rmp as it warms up it drops to 1000 then to 7 - 800 rpm. If i let it warm up properly there is no thud, if i try to go to drive before that 7 to 800 rmp it alway does. This only happens when the car is cold so sitting for 4 hrs or more. It doesnt do it if i go from park to reverse, only when i goto drive.
 
#5 ·
East Coast Outback, Thanks this sounds about right. I dont have a blue light, but otherwise seems right on. Just seems off to have to warm up a car these days. Wonder if there is some adjustment/programming that needs to be made so the engine does not rev so high when started.

awd-gg, she's not throwing off any error codes presently.
 
#7 ·
2014 3.6R with the 5 speed auto. 14x,xxx miles. Our car does this too. It seems to me that it started after doing a drain and fill on the trans for service. Tried again to see if it would clear up and it did not. I then added a quart of Lucas trans treatment with a drain and fill. Fluid is perfect red color and no other issues shifting, but this problem persists. Only does it when the engine is cold. I thought it could be because we have a fairly steep driveway to back up and it could be putting it in some sort of bind, but even does it if you shift to neutral for a second or two first before going into drive.

I have also noted a little lag or jerk after coasting and then accelerating sometimes. It seems to be between gears and then finds its gear and lurches a bit when it re-engages. Don't think it is related though and this problem doesn't worry me as much as the reverse to drive lurch. Sometimes i think it is going to leave the trans in the driveway it lurches so hard... and then sometimes it doesn't do it at all.

Has anyone taken it in to Subaru or a mechanic for this yet or had this problem cause a serious failure? I know they would be unable to recreate it without letting it cool off first.
 
#8 ·
@Lost Cajun

The fluid should not be red. The fluid that goes in the CVT is CVTF-II and it's blue. You can get it from Subaru parts for about $15 a quart or less. I suggest you get a case of 12 and flush the red fluid out by draining and filling a couple times. After the first drain and fill, drive it around to make sure the fluid circulates and heats up, then do the second.
The "universal" CVT fluids will damage the torque converter clutch and cause the shuddering. If you did the fluid change because of a shudder, then you may have a valve body issue already and it'll need to be checked by someone familiar with CVTs.

If your AT Temp light is flashing that indicates codes are stored on the TCM and you'd have to get the TCM scanned by someone with a scan tool that can communicate with the transmission.
 
#9 ·
I checked myself and checked myself twice! He does not have a CVT! :geek:

@Lost Cajun

The fluid should not be red. The fluid that goes in the CVT is CVTF-II and it's blue. You can get it from Subaru parts for about $15 a quart or less. I suggest you get a case of 12 and flush the red fluid out by draining and filling a couple times. After the first drain and fill, drive it around to make sure the fluid circulates and heats up, then do the second.
The "universal" CVT fluids will damage the torque converter clutch and cause the shuddering. If you did the fluid change because of a shudder, then you may have a valve body issue already and it'll need to be checked by someone familiar with CVTs.

If your AT Temp light is flashing that indicates codes are stored on the TCM and you'd have to get the TCM scanned by someone with a scan tool that can communicate with the transmission.
 
#10 ·
My bad. I had CVT on my mind from another couple threads. It's a 5EAT.

So let's start over. Things to check - battery, grounds, make sure the fluid is not over full, trans mount, driveshaft u-joints, CV axle joints. You could try to force a relearn by disconnecting the battery cables for a few minutes, then when you drive it it'll relearn a shift map.
 
#12 ·
are you setting the parking brake each time you park?

E5AT will go into gear very hard if there is even the smallest amount of weight on the parking pawl...

Also the colder it gets the thicker the trans fluid is when cold so it could be that. colder fluid takes longer to get where it needs to be and the delay could be related to that.

How does the trans act when cold? is it delayed shifting do you get load reversal shock when you abruptly let off the gas?

I am assuming you are on your 2nd or 3rd transmission fluid change out after the original change out? I am at 154K now and the transmission goes into gear almost immediately and is very smooth when doing so (2010 3.6R)
 
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