Clutch slipping, need upgrade advice
2001 USDM outback wagon 2.5L 115k miles on original clutch (as far as I know)
Recently, I was on an "excursion" into some deep snow, ice, muddy stuff and got the clutch smoking a bit at one point.
Since then I've had a "squeal" type sound occasionally with letting the clutch out, and most recently (wed and friday last week) the clutch pedal stuck to the floor and the clutch seemed to be stuck engaged. Both times I was in the process of shifting "quickly" and the clutch was let out too fast (due to a failing pedal cover that I ripped off completely when I realized why my foot slipped off the pedal).
Once in this state, with the engine still running I couldn't select any gears, when I attempted 2nd or reverse the gears would grind. Working the clutch pedal yielded no change but it also felt as though the pedal wasn't connected to anything at all. After turning the engine off I could select gears and after pumping the clutch pedal a few times it would return to it's normal feel.
I have now noticed the clutch is definitely slipping at higher rpm's (3-4k) but the car seems to be driveable for now.
I'm hoping to upgrade from OEM spec.
Here's the patrs list I've compiled
Exedy stage 1 organic clutch kit are about $350
OEM flywheel I've found for $100
Lightened flywheel $200-400
new slave cylinder
stainless steel braided clutch line
What is everyone's opinion on the "tranquil" thing? http://www.pdmusa.com/Applications/applications.html
I haven't decided if I'm going to tackle this job myself or not. That may depend on when/if the clutch fails completely.
Compensates for worn splines on the tranny shaft by sleeving over it, hence uses a oversize throw out bearing.
It is a good deal and we will definitely install one with our next clutch job.
Don't put off doing the clutch job. Sounds like you completely fried it already.
The clutch is only really slipping at WOT at those rpm's. At less than WOT is seems to hold just fine. I'm not really trying to "put it off" just get the parts I want beforehand. I've had trouble in the past when something broke and I didn't have the time to do the research or get the upgrades I really wanted. (When the stock turbo on my Saab blew and I had to have it running that weekend for a long trip comes to mind).
I found "F1 racing" clutches online as well, the reviews I've read on some sites are favorable and the price is much better. Anyone have experience with these?
How light should a daily drivers flywheel be? I'm seen Fidanza's Al flywheel coming in at like 8-9 pounds which seems "too light" for a street car.
We moved him about a foot and decided not to smoke our new clutch! He was bottomed out on his center section! Now how would he have known ahead of time not to drive himself into the predicament.
Ordered some parts:
Tranquil snout sleeve
ACT streetlite flywheel (like 12 pounds)
SPEC stage 1 organic (rated to hold 302lbft) - I wanted a full disc organic, I've had a 6 puck kevlar in another car and hated it.
I figure the hydraulic stuff can wait since it's outside the bellhousing. On my Saab the slave cylinder was inside which if you ask me is a dumbass way to do it.
Q1:How much did you pick up that tranquil sleeve for and how is the install?
Q2: What made you choose the SPEC clutch over the Exedy?
the tranquil sleeve cost me something like $150 including shipping cost. I found it from www.hotsubarus.com iirc.
I chose the Spec clutch because I have friends who have had good experiences with their products. The exedy also didn't list any specs regarding how much torque it would hold, the spec is rated for 300 lb.ft.
Got some pics of my clutch and flywheel, still all wrapped up. Installation going on tomorrow.
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