Aborted Oil Change X 2 on '17 - Page 2 - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums
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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-09-2017, 04:39 PM
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just for asking have any of you noticed dealers sucking the oil up with a siphon on the FB engines rather then draining it out the bottom?


(I mean they could change the oil without a lift, or a ramp or anything,

wish my engines had filters on top, just never installed a remote locator kit on one).


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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-09-2017, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by budha View Post
The drain plug was very tight when I performed the first oil change on my 2017 2.5. Your dealer may be pumping the oil out vs. draining the oil out the drain plug.

I was careful to have a good socket seated well and used a 1/2" breaker bar for the first oil change. And I installed a Fumoto valve. Gen 5 2.5's are much more difficult to drain that my 2013. I could change the oil in my 2013 with the car flat on the ground and a drain plug that was easy to get to. I did not understand all the moaning about the drain plug on the Gen 5's until I owned one.
Yeah, I had difficulty even with a 17" (or maybe 18"?) 1/2" drive breaker bar. Definitely use a 6 point socket to lessen the chance of rounding. And make sure you're turning the correct direction!

One thing to note is that the drain bolt is painted black and onto the oil pan. I wonder if this additional surface coating/'fusion' paint is what's causing this additional trouble ...?

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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-09-2017, 07:03 PM
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I like to change my own oil and filter. I attempted this when my 2017 four cylinder reached 5000 miles only to not be able to loosen the drain plug. I reluctantly had the dealer do it hoping they would break the plug free and I would be able to accomplish it from there on . WRONG. I tried again this morning and ecountered the same issue. I'm using a 14mm socket and am on the verge of rounding off the plug head . Are they installing these plugs with impact wrenches to discourage self oil changes ?
You can try to carefully check to see if it appears that the bolt was actually removed by the dealer by looking at the painted surfaces. However, given that you're already on the verge of rounding the plug head, this might not work.

Perhaps it was easier for the tech to pump out the oil rather than remove the bolt for you (and thereby run the potential risk of further compounding head rounding (and a final screw extraction procedure) themselves)?
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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-10-2017, 12:38 AM
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What does the manufacturer do these days, weld those plugs on?
That's also my question. I have never had a problem with a stuck drain plug, I always tighten it by feel, and I'm trying to get a grasp on what some of these people - both manufacturers and oil change services - must be doing out there for tightening procedures.
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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-10-2017, 07:53 AM
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What does the manufacturer do these days, weld those plugs on?
No, they're using a lift.

Just having the car up on a lift allows the avearage arm to deliver a heck of a lot more torque through the average-sized wrench. Looks can be deceiving, it really is a big effect.

Even a set of ramps will magnify available leverage. Working right on the ground? Get a flex handle or cheater pipe combo that allows you to use every inch of swing you have, and it'll be easier.
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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-10-2017, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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GOT IT ! It took a morning trip to Lowes and switching from a 3/8 drive wrench and 12 point 14mm socket to a 1/2 inch black 6 point 14mm socket and an 18 inch breaker bar, plus some muscle. If you've watched some of these assembly line videos, everything is done with power tools so I'm sure it was installed with something akin to an impact wrench.
Someone might have mentioned how far and at what angle that oil shoots out. I thought I had the angle calculated but still missed the pan by a few inches. Good thing my garage floor is epoxy paint. Thanks for all the help, guys .
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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-27-2017, 01:05 AM
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I went after the oil drain bolt tonight on a '17 Outback H-4. I've been changing oil on my cars for over 50 years and I have NEVER come across a drain bolt so hard to remove. Yes, I used a 6-point socket; yes, I used a 1/2 inch breaker bar; and yes, I was turning it the correct direction, but I still rounded the bolt. The only salvation was to remove the plastic covering, clamp on a vice grip, and lay on my back while pushing the vice grip with my foot.

It is totally ridiculous the drain bolt should be on so tight. This was the second oil change, the first by the dealer. The drain bolt had no prior marks leading me to question if (1) the tech sucked the oil out on the prior change or (2) the dealer never changed the oil, because he sure as @#$% didn't remove the drain plug. The oil change that should have taken me 30 minutes took well over an hour tonight because of this drain bolt.

Fortunately I was prepared with a Fumoto valve, because I wouldn't have been able to reuse the old drain bolt.

Last edited by tpfeffer; 07-27-2017 at 07:42 AM. Reason: remove sentence
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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-27-2017, 08:50 AM
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Sounds like a very compelling reason to get a Fumoto in the future! What's the difference with the G5's? They go out on a 90 degree angle? My G4 goes straight down.

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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-27-2017, 08:58 AM
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Wow, is this is a new "feature" of 2017's?

Thanks for the edit. Replies were for OP who got it it out after doing two things mentioned by many on this thread. Small things make a big difference in challenging situations. Leverage, brand of tools, Milton V fittings, retaining perfect angles for force application...etc.
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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-27-2017, 12:32 PM
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Maybe I should stock up on sockets with the chamfer removed and sell them as special subaru oil plug sockets!

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