DIY: Gen 4 FB 2.5L Oil & Filter Change - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums
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post #1 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-21-2013, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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DIY: Gen 4 FB 2.5L Oil & Filter Change

I know there is a DIY out there for the 3.6L, but not for the 2.5L that I could find. Changing the oil and filter is even easier on the 2.5 since the oil filter is under the hood. Every Outback owner should consider doing this themselves - it is very simple and you'll know it was done correctly every time.

Equipment needed: At least 5.1 quarts of 0w20 synthetic oil, oil filter, drain plug gasket
Tools needed: Ramps (optional), oil drain pan, socket wrench with 17mm socket, oil filter cap wrench (optional), torque wrench (recommended, but some will say optional), funnel (recommended), and paper towels and newspaper for protection/clean-up.
Level of difficulty: Low
Time needed: If it's your first time, it could take you an hour; after you get the process down, it'll take 30 minutes start to finish.

First, get all your equipment and tools together (first picture below, oil drain pan not pictured). Once that's done, I like to take the car for a quick drive if it has been sitting to get the oil warmed up so as much old oil as possible will drain, and drain quickly.



Next is to pull the Outback up on ramps, which is an optional step. You can slide under the front of the Outback when it's on flat ground, but ramps make the drain plug really easy to get to.



I put newspaper down under the oil drain pan in case of an overflow (which does happen, this oil comes out very fast). Situate the oil drain pan underneath the drain plug (see picture below, blue circle). Loosen and remove the drain plug with the 17mm socket and longest socket wrench extension you have to keep your hands as far away as possible. Let the oil drain into the drain pan.



While the oil is draining, open the hood and locate the oil filter (see picture below, red rectangle). Using the fluted oil filter cap wrench (or a regular wrench), loosen and remove the old filter. Have some paper towels handy as oil can drip out of the bottom of the old filter.




I like to clean the oil filter housing to remove all the old oil:


Before installing the new filter, make sure the old rubber grommet came off with the old filter. The new filter will have a new rubber grommet on it already. I like to rub a little oil on the new rubber grommet to make a nice seal when installing the new filter. Install the new filter by hand-tightening the filter, then use the oil filter cap wrench to torque to 9 ft-lbs (or I believe the other "approved" spec is turn until tight, then 1/4 turn more).

By now the oil should be completely drained and you can reinstall the drain plug. First clean off the drain plug as it's probably covered in oil, and then make sure the old crush washer is off and put on the new crush washer. Hand-tighten the plug and then torque to 31 ft-lbs.



Now it's time to refill with oil. The maintenance manual calls for approximately 5.1 quarts when replacing the oil and filter. Remove the oil filler cap (right next to the oil filter housing), insert a funnel (much easier and cleaner than trying to pour the oil straight in), and fill with 5.1 quarts (I use 5 x 1 quart bottles and a little out of a sixth bottle). Replace the oil filler cap.



Check underneath the car to make sure no oil has seeped from the drain plug. Now start the Outback up, and make sure the oil check light does not come on. If it does, turn the car off immediately and recheck your work. If the dashboard is clear, take the car for a short spin, come back and park it on a level surface, let it idle for a minute, turn the engine off, let it sit for a minute, and then check the oil level. For me ~5.1 quarts puts the oil level just below the full mark when hot.

Dispose of the old oil at an approved facility, and you're done.

Note: I like to clean the MAF sensor at every oil change since it's an easy way to remember to do it and easy to do while the hood is up. The DIY for that can be found here.



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post #2 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-22-2013, 06:21 PM
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Looks pretty much just like what I did yesterday, right down to the Rhino Ramps!

The Outback is one of the easiest oil changes I've ever done. The oil drains almost straight down, and there's nothing in the way to cause drips and runs. The only thing that could have been done better is to have the oil drain out of the filter without getting in the "dam" around the filter so that you don't have to clean it out with a rag.

We had a 1985 Mazda RX7 that had the filter mounted upside down, just like on the Outback, but never had to worry about the oil coming out of it; it drained down into the pan.


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post #3 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-28-2013, 06:02 PM
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Great DIY. Having the filter under the hood makes it a snap. The only thing that would make it easier would be putting a Fumoto valve on the pan.

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post #4 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-28-2013, 07:09 PM
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My gen 4 doesn't look like that Maybe we should add that this is for the b series engine?

2011 2.5i CVT PZEV Dark Blue 195k miles

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post #5 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-29-2013, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drm4633 View Post
My gen 4 doesn't look like that Maybe we should add that this is for the b series engine?
I agree. Bang-up job on a DIY for the 2013-2015 models though.

Main differences on the 2010-2012 models:
- Filter is located underneath the car. Relative to the oil pan, the filter is closer to the front of the vehicle and more-so on the passenger side of the vehicle. The exhaust wraps around where you need to reach for the oil filter.
- If you take the car for a drive first and then try to change the oil filter immediately, there's a strong probability that you will burn your arm on the exhaust. I do take my car for a drive first, but generally start to drain the oil pan and then wait about half an hour to let the exhaust cool down before I go back to remove the filter.
- 2.5 engine takes ~4.2 quarts (4 liters) of oil
- Oil pan looks slightly different but appears to be in the same location next to the front sway bar (on the 2010's, the plug is not at an angle, but rather pretty much centered at the bottom of the pan).
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post #6 of 65 (permalink) Old 09-30-2013, 09:20 AM
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additional comments:
  • 14mm for drain plug
  • I add 5 qts every time and it doesnt appear to be over on the dipstick

2011 2.5i CVT PZEV Dark Blue 195k miles

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post #7 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 03:18 PM
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Is that a drain hole next to the filter in the right side, outer part of the cup ?
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post #8 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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^ drain hole for the filter, yes.


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post #9 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-21-2013, 06:19 PM
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Drains where ?
It's open to the elements.
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post #10 of 65 (permalink) Old 12-22-2013, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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^ not sure where you're talking about then. The drain hole for the filter is the red square and covered by the oil filter when installed:





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