|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|04-30-2013 09:09 AM|
|Mashtaters||DRL's or any artificial light is a huge safety feature. It has nothing about being old or vision problems, the fact is that the artificial light stands out vs its surrounding and is a wake up call for your brain. It is extremely helpful in situations such as intersections and overhead obstructions (such as bridges, tunnels, trees) that produce a shadow, especially if those shadows produce the ever annoying strobe effect. For those that have evolved their brain past this and become super human, then disregard and congrats on being perfect.|
|04-23-2013 04:50 PM|
|jogosub||Fibber2: Cool ... I put 100W into front fog lights (yellow) with ceramic sockets and HD wiring harness to prevent melting of the stock fog light sockets....I have 100W/120 W low/high beams (bulbs) with the same harness and sockets....on my third Subaru now....low beams adjusted well below specs lines so that they don't annoy oncoming drivers...|
|04-23-2013 04:41 PM|
I modified my lights a few years back as follows:
1) Philips Xtreme Vision H1 bulbs in the low beam housings. I was running their +30 and +50 ECE bulbs that I was buying from a store in England before the latest version became available from Candlepower.
2) 9005 high beam bulbs in place of the stock 9006 in the factory fog light housings.
3) Using the adjustment screw, I took the upper beam tails a little above the horizon for some long distance vision, and more side illumination.
4) Ditched the silly plastic grills.
5) Added a relay and secondary dash switch so that I can selectively control the fog lights to come on and off with the high beams.
Comments and results:
1) The low beams are brighter and whiter within the legal coverage area, with slightly better/sharper cutoff than the stock bulbs. I attribute this to tighter build tolerance and filament placement. Net is more useable light where you need it with less glare to oncoming traffic.
2) I NEVER use the fog lights unless I am driving in FOG or blowing snow (with low beams), or when totally alone on dark country roads when using the high beams. And even when using the modified fogs with the low beams, I will sometimes switch them off to not impact oncoming traffic.
3) Despite the higher aim and brighter bulbs (1700 lumens instead of 1000 lumens, for only 10 watts additional draw), they still retain reasonable ‘fog light’ capability. They produce improved distance vision in bad weather without reflected glare as they start out low enough, and it’s far better then blinding yourself using high beams.
4) The relay / switch solution gives the options of fogs always off, fogs on with low beams but not high beams (stock arrangement), fogs off with low beams but on with high beams, or fogs on with either low or high beams.
5) The relay output is wired directly to the harness a few inches from each fog light, rather than hooking into the underdash feed. I found that by avoiding the existing dash controls in the ‘on with high beams mode’ I get about 1 volt higher to the lamps. Apparently there is a bit of a voltage drop going thru the stock arrangement. As filament emission is somewhat logarithmic with voltage, the net is a surprising increase in brightness.
6) So far, no meltdowns with 65w rather than 55w fog draw (about 1 amp more per side).
7) MOST IMPORTANT to me – Total illumination with high beams for deer spotting is just amazing! To give you an idea of what I achieve with these mods, here are some pictures I took prior to the snowfall this past year. My driveway is about 500 ft long and lined with bushes and trees. To keep the snowplow from running astray I edge it with reflectors paced out every 30 ft. About 250 ft from where the car is stopped, the driveway drifts left and descends down a slope. The very last dot in the bottom photo - low and centered in the image - is at about 350 ft away. The car is sitting with a set of markers to the left and right around the front doors, so the first markers visible are around 25 ft away.
|04-23-2013 12:01 PM|
|04-23-2013 11:21 AM|
Thanks... on 2013 the DRLs are actually dimmed high beams - no "loss of power"... that is the way, they are designed. It might be the same on your model - not sure though.
The reason I dwell on this is because I actually think that DRLs are a safety issue. Same as rear fog lights that I have just installed on my 2013 OB. That safety issue still did not filter into these woods... As you have mentioned, it's better and safer "to be seen" ... in many countries and many states they are now mandatory. All of Scandinavia, all Nordic Countries, all of Canada and most EU countries....there are many statistics that claim decrease in accidents....
|04-23-2013 11:13 AM|
It must be a local phenomenon. I'm probably not more than 300 mi. from you geographically, maybe a beach thing??? On to the "calibration" issue. The DL's more than likely have been aimed toward the right at a distance decided by the automaker. Also, My DRL's are not as bright as when I actively turn my headlights. Don't know if this is because less electricity is being sent to the bulb, or something else controls the brightness. Whatever it is, I sure would love to disable the DRL's completely.
|04-23-2013 10:35 AM|
That helps... somehow... but I still don't understand why most people here in NW FL have fog lights on all the time? Any clues?
Also, not sure what do you mean by "calibrated" LED DRLs on those "expensive" models. The only "calibration" that I can think of is dimming....I don't see those DRL lights being dimmed or pointed down, etc., when one of those cars is behind me, do you?
They must have been DOT approved, so why worry about being behind a cop?
|04-23-2013 10:25 AM|
|04-23-2013 10:25 AM|
|rasterman||Just leave your hi-beams on all the time, it's cheaper and easier, you'll see plenty far and most people are too lazy to blink their hi-beams back at you anyway.|
|04-23-2013 09:49 AM|
Originally Posted by statueim View Post
Are we discussing safety issues here or chewing fat on clichés...LOL
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