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Discussion Starter #1
109,500 miles
H6 3.0

I can start to hear a noise that's best described as a low pitched humming noise. Almost like big 36" super swamper tires buzzing on the tarmac.the noise only comes from the front left. ive checked the cv joint and there are no rips. i even jacked the tire up and i didnt notice any play in the wheel bearing.it begins at around 35 mph and get worse with speed, and more noticeable in left turns. And almost seems to go away in right turns. But you must be going above 35 to hear it: I don't hear it around town or locking out the steering wheel to get into a parking space: I've tested for torque bind, and I get none. I've also confirmed all four tires are the same brand and model, plus same manufacture date. Same tire psi to. I can't imagine its tire noise. It's just to loud and only comes from one area.

What do you all think?
 

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wheel bearing, maybe. but the symptoms do not completely match. usually a turn away from the bad bearing will make it whine. but yours may be so ''new'' ....

another possibility, brakes pads dragging on rotor. try driving in a situation where it usually makes noise and lightly apply the brakes with your other foot as you drive. if the noise goes away i would thinks brakes.

but probably wheel bearing.
 

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I agree it points to right side wheel bearing. You could try to compare temps from side to side on the theory that a bearing going bad might heat up.(borrow or get an infrared remote therm.) But, a recent test of that theory on my WRX didn't show a difference when I had a rear bearing that was bad so.....

I'll just through in possible heat shield buzzing.

also, there have been people who've had the stub axle not seated in the transmission.
 

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Ah, yes, the front wheel bearing, sounds exactly like mine did.

My bad left front bearing also got quiet when it was on the outside of the turn (rt turn) (the opposite of what normally happens), made it tough to be sure which was bad.

Mine made a LOT of noise for a long time and never got loose or hot.

I think it gets quieter when louder is expected not because it's more highly loaded (which it is), but because in a right turn the area of the bearing race taking the most force moves away from the most damaged part of the bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'll try lightly pressing on the brakes. If I remember correctly, the noise gets louder when I hit the brakes hard. I'll confirm that today. I've even thought it could be some shroud somewhere buzzing in the wind, but I can't find anything loose or out of place under the vehicle. But I will say it sounds more "mechanical" than wind. It's a very constant noise. The sound doesn't change pitch or flutter sort of speak. Is there any other test than trying to wobble the wheel to check the bearing? I'll drive the vehicle and check the temps at the hub to.
 

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I'll try lightly pressing on the brakes. If I remember correctly, the noise gets louder when I hit the brakes hard. I'll confirm that today. I've even thought it could be some shroud somewhere buzzing in the wind, but I can't find anything loose or out of place under the vehicle. But I will say it sounds more "mechanical" than wind. It's a very constant noise. The sound doesn't change pitch or flutter sort of speak. Is there any other test than trying to wobble the wheel to check the bearing? I'll drive the vehicle and check the temps at the hub to.

Put the nose up on jacks, feel of the coil spring while turning the wheel - compare sides. I've read you can sometimes feel a rough bearing that way. Also, a mechanics stethoscope - or a long screwdriver pressed to the ear - while turning the wheel might detect something.

good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'll try that..

So I took it out today and I confirmed the noise is Definately front left; gets worse with speed, engine rpm doesn't matter, get worse turning left, and there's a little vibration. I took it down a rough road and didn't notice any new noise, but going slow down a bumpy dirt road I can hear something moving. It sounds like something is bumping around.like something's loose. And applying the breaks don't do anything. Maybe I should check that bearing again.
 

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I'll try that..

So I took it out today and I confirmed the noise is Definately front left; gets worse with speed, engine rpm doesn't matter, get worse turning left, and there's a little vibration. I took it down a rough road and didn't notice any new noise, but going slow down a bumpy dirt road I can hear something moving. It sounds like something is bumping around.like something's loose. And applying the breaks don't do anything. Maybe I should check that bearing again.
That sounds like a bad bearing, but take the wheel off and check the brake pad lining.

If it is the bearing, its press fit. Unless you have access to a standing press, you may want to find a brake or suspension shop that can replace it for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Will do.


Is there more than one bearing that should be replaced? ie; inner and outer bearing?
 

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Although it could be a bad tire, he has described exactly the symptoms of my bad left front wheel bearing, including the noise getting better during a right turn.

Bootski, the bearing comes as an assembly that presses into the spindle.

It can be done on the car with a screw-type service tool, and replacing the wheel bearing is doable if you are a pretty confident home mechanic.

I used mine as an excuse to buy a 20 ton press for the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So here's a update. I did some digging around under the car and I believe the wheel bearings are fine, but the right cv axle has a tear in the boot at the tire, and I can physically move it back and forth, and up and down a bit. The left cv axle has very little movement. Would it be correct to assume that replacing the right cv axle would get rid of the noise I hear? I hope so!
 

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Try this: Drive it a bit to warm everything up. You won't have to travel far, just a few blocks. Get it back in your drive and lift the left wheel off the ground. With one hand on the coil spring, spin the wheel with the other and feel it. If you don't feel any vibration, its not the bearing. Check the other wheel the same way. If you feel a vibration through the spring, change the bearing.

The axle could be causing noise if there is substantial wear in the ball and sockets. The movement is an indication of the wear, so one new axle is needed. As far as the axle curing your noise, maybe, maybe not. Irregardless, you know you need the axle anyway.

It could also be brake related if your rotors have a lot of rust. Especially if the air vents are loaded with rust build up. The air movement could be causing vibration, the pad edge could be vibrating on the rotor edge, could be loose pad hardware.

Replace what you KNOW is bad and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm replacing the axles today, so I will try that when I'm done. Btw, thanks a lot from everyone for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
so i replaced the cv, a boot, and the tie rod end, which was my fault for using the wrong tool. anyways, the noise is still there, but i believe its the bearing. all though i didnt spin the tire and feel for vibration, i can move the tire side to side, but not up and down. my question is, how safe is it to drive the vehicle till i replace the bearing?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
actually, the more i read, i think its the tie rod..guess i will jack the car up and check for vibrations just to elimanate some choices.
 

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Side-side instead of in all directions is usually an inner or outer tie rod end (or both). Possibly a ball joint.

The bearings can make a lot of noise yet be difficulty to diagnose with certainty. It might not be loose, does not get hot, and does not obviously vibrate or make noise when spun by hand, and yet is the noisy one.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
so i spun the tire and felt the spring and it definately vibrates. so bad bearing for sure. so that will be replaced tomorrow. i also believe the tie rod should be replaced because of the side to side movement, but how do i know if i need to replace the entire tie rod, or just the tie rod end? and do i need any special tools?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So I replaced the inner, and outer tie rod, had my wheel bearing pressed by a shop for 20 bucks, and now I'm currently installing everything.. I'm hoping this fixes my issues..hopefully this is the last bit of work i do sice I've replaced the front right cv axle, front left bellow, front right wheel bearing, front left outer tie rod, and front rich inner/outer tie rod. I'm happy this vehicle is easy to work on. If anyone is going to do the same work let me know. I'm happy to help, and its pretty straight forward. Plus I found out autozone has a lifetime warrenty on inner/outer tie rod, and cv axles. So shop there! Plus there a bit cheaper too boot
 

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So I replaced the inner, and outer tie rod, had my wheel bearing pressed by a shop for 20 bucks, and now I'm currently installing everything.. I'm hoping this fixes my issues..hopefully this is the last bit of work i do sice I've replaced the front right cv axle, front left bellow, front right wheel bearing, front left outer tie rod, and front rich inner/outer tie rod. I'm happy this vehicle is easy to work on. If anyone is going to do the same work let me know. I'm happy to help, and its pretty straight forward. Plus I found out autozone has a lifetime warrenty on inner/outer tie rod, and cv axles. So shop there! Plus there a bit cheaper too boot

ALIGNMENT! Don't forget the alignment. Make sure the shop that does it has all wheels set at "0" toe. The front struts have eccentric bolts in them for adjusting camber. No camber in the rear; only toe in.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
You think I can get away with not getting a alignment if I do my best at putting everything back were it was? I've counted the turns the outer tie rod spins, and counted the threads after the jam nut plus taking a picture to replicate it..
 
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