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2002 Outback 107k very cherry, just bought it
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Daughter's car and she is wanting her AC to work again. I've done the following with no positive results.
1. Having AC and Fan switch on while engine running, no engagement of the compressor clutch. Interior 15A fuse#17 is good.
2. Disconnected compressor wire from the engine compartment relay panel and run 12v light from ground to the relay side of the connection and no juice to the bulb.
3. Switched out known good 5008 relay from our 2002 OB to the '01 panel and no difference.
4. Ran a jumper wire from +side of battery terminal to the clutch side connector and clutch kicks in weakly.

The clutch gap is in the .030 range, but that doesn't explain the lack of juice from the relay. If I knew which of the tabs were positive and which were negative, I'd feel more comfortable poking around in the engine relay box to see if power is coming from either the fan switch or the AC button wires on the dash. Are there other interior or exterior fuses that are in this mix that I haven't checked? I'm kinda at a standstill here folks. Any help would be much appreciated!! TIA.

Once I fix this, I'll do the shim job on the clutch.
 

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'03 outback limited, '01 Outback Limited, '01 Legacy L wagon, '96 Legacy Brighton wagon
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2,179 Posts
Would like to know this as well - no juice to the clutch in my '03 as well. Fuses good, switch lights up, but haven't changed out the relay as yet.
 

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2002 Outback 107k very cherry, just bought it
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
advanced Auto wanted $13 for a special order relay for it. Won't be here til Wednesday. After I switched out the AC relays and had no im,provement, I called them back and cancelled it.
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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14,318 Posts
Can you jump pins 30 and 87 at the relay and have the compressor clutch activate? Pin 30 should be hot all the time, 87 is the clutch and test it for ground.

Pin 85 is ground. Pin 86 is the power from the AC control when its turned on. 12V runs through the pressure switch and the ECM 1st, though.

So, if you can jump 30 & 87 and the clutch engages, you have a ground on 85, then that leaves the control in the dash or a pressure switch not operating to send 12V to the relay.

You can check the pressure switch for power with the control head on. If you have power, go down the line to the relay. If you don't then its an issue with the control head where the power starts.

Is it Auto or Manual AC? See the diagrams.
 

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2002 Outback 107k very cherry, just bought it
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Cardco, it's an auto. Something amiss there I need to play with?? Thanks
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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Cardco, it's an auto. Something amiss there I need to play with?? Thanks
Have you tried operating it in manual mode?

With the test light on the yellow wire of the pressure switch, it should light up when you turn the AC on in the car. If it does not, then your problem is in the control head in the car. If you get power to the switch and not the AC relay, then the problem is with the switch. HIGHLY doubtful the ECM is preventing the AC from coming on unless its getting a high temp reading from the ECT. Are the radiator fans coming on when you turn on the AC? And is the AC charged?
 

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2002 Outback 107k very cherry, just bought it
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the follow up Cardoc. The fans are not coming on, but the system was working a mont or so ago and blowing cold air, but maybe not frigid air. I'll do your testing and report bacxk. May take a few days as I'm buried up in another project right now. Thanks again for your help.
 

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. . . With the test light on the yellow wire of the pressure switch, it should light up when you turn the AC on in the car. If it does not, then your problem is in the control head in the car.
(Friendly note . . )

There should be battery voltage at both wires, the yellow wire, and the green with blue stripe wire (pins 1 and 2 respectively of pressure switch connector B10) whenever the ignition is at On, whether or not the engine is running or the HVAC is turned on. A test light should light up at both under these conditions. (I'd suggest checking at both.) If the blower motor works, then that confirms fuse #17 is good.

If the refrigerant pressure is out of spec (low or high), the pressure switch will be open. There will be battery power at pin 2, but no power through the switch to pin 1.
 
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