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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have just replaced the engine on my 2002 h6 and now the auto transmission wont pump oil, converter bolted to flex plate, there is no codes
also I replaced auto fluid and auto pan filter, oil level is good, any advice?:crying:
 

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2000 Outback Limited, Dual Range 5 Speed
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Did you make sure the converter was seated properly, "did you have to use force to get the motor home". Many a thread on here about people destroying the trans pump by not having the converter seated properly home before bolting engine up.

I really hope that's not the case for you.
 

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updated thread title.

and yeah, hope its a little problem,...and not a BIG problem,
@idosubaru , @Glennda5id maybe able to suggest a course of action.




and just for asking, VDC model or not?
 

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01 Outback LL Bean
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When you put put the engine and trans together there should be a small gap between the torque converter and the flex plate. When you crank the engine to align the flex plate with the torque converter, the torque converter shouldn't move. Once you install the flex plate to torque converter bolts the torque converter will slide up and mate with the flex plate.

Does this scenario sound like the process you went through?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yes but i did put a little pressure on the shaft in an up and down force while installing the engine, hopefully this would not damage the pump, what i did do though, is pull the torque converter out of the donor car and my car and put the wrong one back in my car, the original came out with the long tube shaft attatched and the donor didnt, therefore no pump, totally stupid i know, would running the car without the long tube on the converter do any damage, there is no noises from auto while running. will be pulling auto out and changing torque converter for the right one, alot of work for a really stupid mistake
 

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yes but i did put a little pressure on the shaft in an up and down force while installing the engine, hopefully this would not damage the pump, what i did do though, is pull the torque converter out of the donor car and my car and put the wrong one back in my car, the original came out with the long tube shaft attatched and the donor didnt, therefore no pump, totally stupid i know, would running the car without the long tube on the converter do any damage, there is no noises from auto while running. will be pulling auto out and changing torque converter for the right one, alot of work for a really stupid mistake
were these both EZ30D trans? ...if so sounds like you are mixing VDC and non-VDC trans there for different shaft shapes.

JDM places may lump them all together, (lucky if they don't sell you a Nissan trans).

we recently had a long discussion about how and if it would be possible to mix and match if forced to.
( easier to just round up the right one in the first place so as to not get caught with a bad or hard to get out of situation).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
exactly the same just one torque converter came out with the long tube shaft attached and the other didnt, I had to put the wrong one back without noticing like a dumbass, i have a whole other car for spares which is exactly the same model with vdc, swapped engines as mine has the subaru weak as piss designed head gasket, so it leaks, just that i took the torque converter out to change the auto front seal and the other one i took out because im an idiot lol and thats that
i will be changing head gaskets on the old engine so i have a spare, is there head gaskets that will do their job for this model and not the piece of **** type that are in it?
 

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exactly the same just one torque converter came out with the long tube shaft attached and the other didnt, I had to put the wrong one back without noticing like a dumbass, i have a whole other car for spares which is exactly the same model with vdc, swapped engines as mine has the subaru weak as piss designed head gasket, so it leaks, just that i took the torque converter out to change the auto front seal and the other one i took out because im an idiot lol and thats that
i will be changing head gaskets on the old engine so i have a spare, is there head gaskets that will do their job for this model and not the piece of **** type that are in it?


EZ30D came with quality MLS head gaskets from the factory,

what happens: too many miles, too long on coolant swaps, owners letting them overheat., or they have like 180,000 and poor maint. in general (like bad plugs on one side,).

....and as the HG job on these work is long / hard/ and may not turn out as the engine was abused already, the easy way out is to get a JDM (99-02 is what the JDM people type of the 212hp variety as those have like 60,000 miles on them).
this vs. doing a nice 10 hour weekend head gasket job on a EJ251 of the same era weeping oil from 3 places.

if doing head gasket work on these: the only set to buy is subaru OEM, nothing better on the market. (aftermarkets, may plain suck in comparison, and there is no Heavy duty or racing type made by anyone).

@Glennda5id just bought a 2001-2002 VDC wagon with a known head gasket problem (presumably blowing exhaust gas into the overflow bottle),
and is putting a JDM into it.

miles on these VDC cars? and where you located? (maybe sell some parts of your parts car on here to offset some costs). Edit: I see you are in Australia.
 

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Glad by he sounds of it you haven't broken anything, bummer about only now realising your mistake.
 

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Bummer!

When installing the torque converter with the pump drive shaft attached, the two tabs on the end of the drive shaft need to align with the pump. Its easiest to attached the shaft to the torque converter and then look down in the trans and see where the tabs need to go. This is where people mess up installing the converter because they don't get the tabs aligned and then the converter is sticking out too far and gets smashed in when they hook the motor back up.

I personally think there is room for design improvement on the EZ30 because these gaskets due tend to go around 200k/10-12 year mark and while that is acceptable I expect more from Subaru. It is probably more of an issue with the block design than anything. I don't think the gaskets failing is due to engine neglect. That being said, the EZ30 was a new design at the time and a performance motor. I miss the old bullet proof EJ22's.
 

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that tube engages and spins the oil pump, so that's why it's not doing anything.

subaru gasket is your best option.

resurface the heads and call around and see if you can find a shop that will resurface the block face as well. if you think about it - you're using a poor sealing surface - that's not factory new, will absolutely have high and low spots in it even if it passes a 'flatness' check, and certainly doesn't have the right surface finish the gaskets are designed to seat and grab against. this isn't about "cracked" or "warped" - that's not the issue.
 

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If the head surface is flat and there are no imperfections in the sealing surface there is no reason to surface the head.

Subaru provides the specifications for reuse in their service infomation.

The thought that the surface that it was originally machined to is not adequate is complete nonsense. The factory machining is far better than most machine shops can duplicate. This is the reason you will see other engines that prohibit machining cylinder heads.
 
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