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2005 Outback 3.0R
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm a pretty handy/mechanical guy. I bought this MY02 Legacy L wagon at an insurance sale. For a rust belt car with 100k miles this car is spotless otherwise. I already had all the parts for repair so I went for it.

This car appears to have driven into the back bumper of a large/tall pick-up truck with a 2.5" hitch receiver leaving a big square on the condenser. The car needs everything that goes along with a front end collision, all which I've repaired on an 03 Forester last summer no problem.

What makes this one somewhat unique to me is the engine was tilted back and driven into the air box, and the transmission mount bracket was partially ripped from the body of the car as the engine/transmission combo tipped backward. The engine mounts appear fine. This car does start though runs rough with the airbox being torn open around the intake and the exhaust is torn at the front before the cats making it sound like a monster truck.

I'm wondering if I did the reverse of the accident, put tension on the engine to pull upward/forward and jacked the torn transmission mount up I'm thinking that the engine/tranny would tip back into position. Repair/replace the tranny mount and then go ahead with the front end damage.

Does this sound like something reasonable to try? The engine mounts look fine from underneath so I don't think it's necessary to take the pair out. I also don't think I've got much to lose by trying this either. Any thoughts?
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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I would tend towards removing the trans bracket and seeing if that is what is actually holding the engine in the rearwards position.

Do these have the pitch control rod on top of the engine? That would be bent/pushed in/damaged as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It does have a control rod on the engine. I can't get a good look at it unless I get the airbox off. The rod itself doesn't appear damaged but I can't tell what damage is attached to it at the firewall without removing the airbox.

Something to do tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The control rod is fine. The bolt that connects it to the engine has moved in the connecting slot. But it is the transmission cross member that is holding the engine in the tilted position. The transmission mount appears bent. I tried jacking up the bent cross member but all that does is lift the car. I don't think jumping up and down on the seat with a jack under the cross member is going to bend it back. :)
 

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2003 OBW 2.5L 4EAT
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Looks like the crossmember is bent as well and also cracked in the middle, unfortunetly that is a dealer only part, or unless you find one on a part out vehicle in good shape. You can proabably get an aftermarket tranny mount, I know Anchor manufactures a pretty good replacement. The catalog only shows the part numbers for 2002 Outback, which are essentially the same as the Legacy's #9563 is the part number for the standard tranny mount & #9552 for automatic tranny.
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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New cross-member and you are golden. I have a spare, but I bet you can get one from the boneyard for less than the cost of shipping...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
New cross-member and you are golden.
You don't figure the mount itself is bad? Looked bent to me and I don't know how "straighten-able" it is. If it's fine, or it can be beaten back with a hammer, I won't bother with it.

Car-part.com shows a cross member or mount (doesn't say which) in junkyard "near-by" but also doesn't say if it's for an auto or manual. When I called they said they didn't have one for the automatic.

Local dealer here in Halifax lists the cross member (41011AE00A) as $86.17, mount (41022AE12B) is $74.09, and the stopper (41022AE19A) is $7.67, plus the regular 15% tax, and could have them in on Friday.

When I take this cross member off I know nothing is going to move any farther. When putting a new or new-to-the-car one on is there a spot that I shouldn't use to lift up on the transmission? I'd think using a jack against the tranny pan should be fine with a block of wood between the two.
 

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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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There is the metal support, then the rubber mount, and yeah, looks like you need both.

I suggest finding a spot on the trans other than the pan to support it, a very minor amount of pan-denting will choke the flow into the filter.

A board across the very back part of the pan where the force went right into the vertical pan wall would probably be OK.

Most junkyards are prepared to ship, as long as you find one in canada that probably counts as close enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I bit the bullet and ordered the dealer parts. After finding a couple other yards that did have the parts the shipping brought the price so close to the new parts I thought it silly not to get new.

Also picked up a timing belt and tensioner. $261 with tax for the tensioner. Made me shiver. Thought about reusing it but the metal of the tensioner looked like it may have bee stained with oil and it looked like there was oil around the tensioner pin. Figured I was better off replacing a tensioner than possibly replacing heads.
 

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Gallery Ninja, ,
2004 Outback "Bluebaru" & 2005 Outback XT
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I have a stock radiator and I think the condensor as well. I recently replaced my engine crossmember as well which was pretty easy as these things go. In your case, it might behoove you to remove the engine and transmission and repair / replace all of the mounts.

I am in Washington State. Let me know if you are interested or have questions I might be able to answer.

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Went to take off the timing belt and found I couldn't line all the marks up. This isn't my first trip to the rodeo but the driver's side cam is at 11 and not at 12 when the passenger cam and crank sprocket are. This car kissed a hitch receiver on the driver's side. Starts without hesitation.

Could the car have jumped three or four teeth and still start no problem? I haven't pushed the engine because it has no coolant in it. It's loud because the exhaust is split. It does sound "off" or "rough" compared to my 2.5 sohc Forester and 2.2 sohc Outback. This may explain that. It also feels gutless when moving the car forward and back relative to my other two EJs. And if it has jumped, this should just be a matter of turning the cam to line up and stick the belt on, yes?

Presuming the photos show up in the same order I uploaded them, the first is the passenger side, crank, and drivers side cam. On the drivers side, the mark on the cam is just to the right of the white paint line, pointing towards the date code on the rear cam cover. I should also add, that in the photo of the drivers cam, you can see where the belt rubbed against the back of the pulley. Each dark mark lines up with a tooth on the cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yep, definitely off four teeth. Time to get a compression tester. At least I've got another engine for parts if it becomes necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I plugged in a scan tool to check for codes and found a P0341. Didn't see the cel because the light was obscured by the steering wheel.

I'm thinking also there's not much point in checking with a compression tester at this point because the driver's cam is off. I know it won't show correct. I've going to take the existing belt off, adjust the cam, put it back on, then test. The existing valves are either done or their not. If they're done, it happened before I bought it and I bought it smashed. I've got another engine for parts.

Fun fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Reset the timing and started right up. The roughness/violent shake is gone. Idle is much better. There was a nasty clack that I immediately traced to the tensioner as I could see it bouncing up and down against the belt.

I'm going to put the new belt and tensioner on and try again. If that's fixed I'm going to unplug cylinders 2 and 4 one at a time and see if the engine bogs or not. I'm hoping it does. If it doesn't I know I've got something bent. If it doesn't I'll do the compression test.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I would tend towards removing the trans bracket and seeing if that is what is actually holding the engine in the rearwards position.

Do these have the pitch control rod on top of the engine? That would be bent/pushed in/damaged as well.
I was finally able to get the transmission mount and cross member off the car. The nuts connecting the mount to the cross member were fairly rusty so after getting the first nut off I sprayed the other two with penetrant to make them easier. I broke the second nut and stud off the mount, and the third had just enough crust built up before spraying that I started it moving but after spraying the crust on the nut fell away and I ended up rounding it off. I tried with a 13mm 12-point and that got it 3/4 of the way and I just couldn't get any more turns out of it.

So I took a prybar and used a hammer to beat it between the mount and the rubber of the mount, to tear the rubber off and separate the two sections of the mount. This gave me enough room to get the four 12mm bolts out of the transmission, and ultimately allowed me to pull both the cross member and the mount out without removing the exhaust.

I held the tranny up with a scissor jack between the pan and the cross member. I jacked it up to where it should be and checked the engine compartment and found what CNY_Dave suggested, that the anti-pitch/roll rod was in fact broken. The end that connected to the firewall was so nicely crushed I couldn't immediately tell it was broken. $59 dealer part, ordered.

Twisted, ugly, and rusted, and three hours laying on the frozen ground with 10" of clearance. It was a satisfying moment when it did come out.

Subaru dealer was unable to source these parts in Canada and are on backorder out of the US. My parts guy is hoping they're in tomorrow, as am I.
 

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Gallery Ninja, ,
2004 Outback "Bluebaru" & 2005 Outback XT
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I have a clean stock one that should fit. Interested?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Got the parts in from the dealer. Nobody near here had one and shipping would have brought the price within a few bucks of new.

So I get it in the same way the old one came out. Low and behold, I can't get the bolts to line up between the frame and the cross mount. The mount needs to move forward a out 3/8" to do so. Ijack up the transmission some more and find I still can't fit the anti-pitch rod in either, by the same 3/8". That's when I took a second look at the engine mounts. They're heh, kinda bent. The front edge of the driver's one is curled back enough to create that 3/8" and the passenger is out about 1/4". I first thought this was an illusion because i have the passenger side if the car jacked up and the driver side is on the ground.

Do any of you know if the Outback engine mounts are the same as the Legacy mounts for 2000-2004? My parts car is an 03 Outback.

Just another note about the engine. The compression test gets me 190-200psi on all cylinders after rolling the engine for 10 seconds. I was quite happy to see that after the drivers cam was retarded four teeth on the belt.
 

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The engine mounts are the same, both cars are of the same gen and both the Outback and Legacy have the same EJ25 engine. I see that your Outback has 257,000 miles, if it still has the original mounts they may not be in the best condition.
 
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