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03 Outback H6 base
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252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My question, Do you need to remove the exhaust for access?

The manual says to remove the front exhaust and heat shield before the cross member and mount (41022AE12B).

While tighter and more time consuming I'm hoping there might be just enough flex by just separating the connection before the rear exhaust pipe. Then unbolting the mount, cross-member and raising the trans. I'm guessing no; but....

Has anyone been successful without dropping the front exhaust pipes?

If not should I expect to replace the gaskets at the heads and the donut at the rear connection?

Thanks in advance for your experience! Glenn
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06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
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5,961 Posts
My guess is maybe, just having done a trasnmuission swap on an '03 H6.

I would say if you disconnect the pipe after the converter, and disconnect the pitch stopper (the dogbone link at the top of the trans right where it meets the engine, behind the airbox against the firewall), maybe.

Idea is to tilt the engine and trans enough that you can slide the transmission crossmember with the rubber mount (or without) out above the exhaust after tilting the engine and trans.

Make sure to always support the trans, and don't support the trans in a way that will put any pressure on the middle of the pan, it is easy to dent it and block flow.

Given how far the studs for the rubber mount penetrate the crossmember, it might be easier to pull the whole crossmember with the rubber mount.
 

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03 Outback H6 base
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252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well that sounds promising! I picked up the new mount today but think I'll wait till I get a CV Boot kit and bearings for the idler pulley and do it all at once. Less down time provided all goes well....

The safety stud only 1 inch long, the longest of the three, so I'm hoping for the best!

Thanks Dave for the DIY on the pulley/tensioner bearings! Saving almost $100:29:

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01 LL Bean
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135 Posts
Thanks Dave for the DIY on the pulley/tensioner bearings! Saving almost $100:29:

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Hear hear
Many thanks to Dave on that bearing. I not only saved $100, I saved the fiance from breaking down in the middle of the highway far from home...how much is that worth?
 

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03 Outback H6 base
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252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok! So that wasn't too bad. Took 1 1/2 hrs start to finish and best of all...

It can be done without taking the exhaust off or apart!:29:

Unplug the oxygen sensor and unbolt the heat shield to slide it backwards. Be careful not to damage the oxygen sensor wires; the sensor it's self doesn't need to be removed. Support the transmission forward of the trans pan NOT under the pan! Unbolt the mount from the cross-member, then the cross-member. Unbolt the mount from the transmission. Then there are two bolts holding a support for the exhaust; you also need to slip the clips over the flange of the plate they clamp to. Then you can flex the exhaust slightly while wrestling the mount out.

The new mount is is superseded with only two cross-member to mount studs so it is easier to install than remove. That third (two on one side) stud nut was the hardest to get at. I used vice grips on a 14mm socket to break it loose....Transmission Mount OEM Part # 41022AE12B Dealer list $67.00


When finished you should have one 14mm nut left over. ;)

Tools needed:

Ramps and floor jack and various wood blocks
Jack stands
Bottle jack to support the trans
12mm and 14mm end wrenches
12mm and 14mm sockets
breaker bar and/or torque wrench

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2003 OBW 2.5L 4EAT
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860 Posts
What were the symptoms of the bad transmission mount? Did you have vibration at idle in drive?
 

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03 Outback H6 base
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252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What were the symptoms of the bad transmission mount? Did you have vibration at idle in drive?
I think that vibration is more a worn front drive axle issue but I'm mo expert....

What alerted me to the bad trans mount was a loud "clunk" when putting it into reverse the first thing in the morning. After the car had warmed up that went away.

Two things I checked made it a certainty. First thing I did was to open the hood to see what the engine was doing when I put it into reverse. I saw the engine nosed over; the front dropping down. I had expected to see it to tilt from one side or the other but it didn't. Definitely looked strange...

Then I got under the car to expect the rear trans mount. Using a pry bar to lift the rear it was easy to see the rubber separate from it's base. Bingo!

Now that it is replaced I am thinking it would also, in my case, be a good idea to upgrade the "pitch" support at the rear of the engine. I think it took some abuse during the time the trans mount was broken. I still have a milder "clunk" so that is my suspect....

Searching "idle vibration" should bring up posts describing what I think is more likely what you are feeling. Worn or cheaper replacement axles exhibit/amplify a vibration problem; if I remember correctly.
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1989 Subaru XT6, 1989 Subaru RX, 2004 Outback 3.0 SUS
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73 Posts
I had to replace mine a year ago with a new one. Did it the exact same way, never had to drop the exhaust. Just a couple months ago, I purchased the RalliTek hard transmission bushing insert for the mount. Again, did it the exact same way!

With the hard insert, I now can hear a bit of drivetrain noise inside but I'm ok with that:29:
 

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1998 Outback Limited
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182 Posts
I had to replace mine a year ago with a new one. Did it the exact same way, never had to drop the exhaust. Just a couple months ago, I purchased the RalliTek hard transmission bushing insert for the mount. Again, did it the exact same way!

With the hard insert, I now can hear a bit of drivetrain noise inside but I'm ok with that:29:
Curious why you went with the Hard vs. the Soft insert?
I'm thinking about getting one of these inserts to try to alleviate my 'vibrations in Drive' issues. My shifting also seems to be kind of sloppy.
 
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