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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
I have had some major issues with this '03 H6 [and I love fixing the issues so it's all good] but currently my AT Oil temp light is flashing, and it feels like it's stuck in 4th when I drive.. Before this engine swap [yeah], I used to drive it like a manual and start in 1, pop to 2, etc.. then D... Now it has no pickup in "1st" (per the stick in my hand - might not actually be 1st inside -- dunno), nor any of the other, non-D, gears (PRN all good)..

I've started going through the diagnostic flowchart for the code 75 (did that drive/stop/21234 thing) and things are looking ok so far.. I feel like it's something else..

Now, this all said, the last guy working on the car was kinda a mess and it could be cables left unplugged even [the 2 big ones into the tranny are plugged and the dropping resistor too] but I've searched around and can't seem to find this type of problem/solution described anywhere..
Thoughts?

p.s. The dropping resistor was replaced because it was getting SUPER hot and now it doesn't but now I have this code [no ECU codes btw] but prolly unrelated..
 

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Thoughts?
Are you sure it's a code 75? There's several other problems (all related to shorts or open circuits in the wiring between the TCU and a particular solenoid in the transmission) for which the "failsafe" is limiting the transmission to 3rd gear. That would seem to be consistent with the symptoms. Any chance it might be a 71 or 72 or something other than 75?

Edit:

I've started going through the diagnostic flowchart for the code 75 (did that drive/stop/21234 thing) and things are looking ok so far.. I feel like it's something else..
Are you using the 2003 Subaru FSM? If so, how far down the flowchart? What suggests it's something else?

The dropping resistor was replaced because it was getting SUPER hot and now it doesn't but now I have this code
Perhaps the overheating was because there was short downstream of the resistor. That short might have burned out/through, so that now there's a new resistor but also an open circuit somewhere.
 

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2008 Outback wagon, 2.5i Touring
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the 2 big plugs could be in but maybe not inserted deep enought
if they are disconnect the car will run in Reverse and putting it in D will get you stuck in third gead
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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when I first read this yesterday I was thinking this EZ30D car is stuck in 3rd like @idosubaru 's was.
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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Before this engine swap
Damaged transmission solenoids. During the engine swap I'm guessing something was under the transmission to move or hold it? This pushes the pan up into the soelnoids. An accident or significant debris can do the same.

There's some resistance/continuity checking of the solenoids you can do to check that wild guess. Or just keep following hte FSM diagnostic tree - it should lead you to the issue.

Or look at your pan - and if it's dented/dinged and you remember doing something under there during the engine swap, pretty good chance you've got busticated solenoids

when I first read this yesterday I was thinking this EZ30D car is stuck in 3rd like @idosubaru 's was.
mine wasn't stuck in 3rd gear, I was intentionally keeping it in 3rd gear due to other issues.

which is probably what's happening here - except the TCU is doing it for him rather than me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
the 2 big plugs could be in but maybe not inserted deep enought
Yes, that might be it, I'll check when the sun's up.. When I was looking for the plugs I was able to just pull on the harness and it popped out, so I plugged it back in but I didn't check the other..
side note: I also have this electrical connection spray stuff that I presume is just something that took my money but has anyone had any good success with usage of electrical spray like that? I might squirt some in there..
 

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2008 Outback wagon, 2.5i Touring
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any update ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
any update ?
Yes, I got to the last step in the flowchart before opening up the pan, but I have yet to get back at it..

I thought I posted some more details but I don't see them anywhere but either way, I plugged those plugs in securely and same result..
 

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(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
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any other odd things going on? could the previous guy have connected black or green diagnostic connectors ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
any other odd things going on? could the previous guy have connected black or green diagnostic connectors ?
nothing more odd going on than that statement, potentially, can you explain? My hillbilly would NOT have been using anything technical (like something with black and green diagnostic connectors like if those are the colours of the Subaru tranny reader?) if that's where you're going with that..

It's such a PITA for me to reach from one end of my car to the other and I just hooked in some alligator clips to my meter so they help for sure..

You know what, I guess I do have a question:
Step 12 CHECK OUTPUT SIGNAL EMITTED FROM TCM.
says:
1) Throttle is fully opend [sic].

so this means the car is on and I've got my foot down (in N prolly), eh?

2) Measure voltage between TCM connector and chassis ground. Connector & terminal (B54) No. 9 (+) — Chassis ground ( − − − − ): Is the measured value less than the specified value?

and I haven't tested that part yet but that's where I am...
 

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if you have a dent in your pan one of the 2 red solenoids is easy to break because the pan has a baffle right above it
it happened to me last winter and the car was stuck in third and AT temps was flashing as soon as I turn the key
the solenoid was broken at the electrical connection
I straightened the pan and put a used solenoid and the car was good
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I am still wondering if you are stuck in 3rd gear.
I don't know WHICH gear I'm in when I'm in D,1,2, or 3, but it's FOR SURE not 1 because it accelerates like **** in "1", and also in 2,3,D for that matter, but once she's up to speed it's good... well, not "good".. you know...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
if you have a dent in your pan one of the 2 red solenoids is easy to break because the pan has a baffle right above it
it happened to me last winter and the car was stuck in third and AT temps was flashing as soon as I turn the key
the solenoid was broken at the electrical connection
I straightened the pan and put a used solenoid and the car was good
Amazing. This sounds promising..

You didn't happen to have some weird buzzing sound from down in the tranny area as well did you?
 

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a tale from a 1996 ford: ...a simpler thing then a 2003 subaru. (but maybe some food for thought).

long time ago with a ford I was stuck in 2nd gear on a 4EAT. (that was caused by a wheel speed sensor getting out of spec, and needing a reflash) before it got stuck the speedo would jump wildy like from zero to 90 without throttle imput to do that, and the car would not shift in a regular pattern....and then it got stuck in 2nd in short order.

I was like 100 miles from home. and turned into a ford dealer at 4pm on a friday who gave me a loaner car. ...then something odd happened. a local guy pulls in with a car stuck in 1st gear.

I guess I could have just driven it home slow on the 2 lanes, ...but it was under the paid warranty and I was worrying the car was going to just plain die. (vs. getting stuck in 3rd/ 2nd/ like it had in the hour previous).

what really sucked was returning the loaner car though, as that was another 200 mile round trip for something that took 15 minutes for them to fix....I can't remember that they even changed a part. (just hitting them in the end of the friday,...and then they took like 3 days to get around to looking at it ).
 

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I am still wondering if you are stuck in 3rd gear.
on the subaru 4eat the third gear is the safe mode , the gear at which no solenoid are activated
if there's a problem and the at temp is flashing the car is in third gear forward or in reverse

when I had all my problems last year after the desastrous WRX JDM tranny swap I took my car from the garage to my parents house, a 25 miles drive, by disconnecting the 2 big plugs leaving the car with third gear
 
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. . .

You know what, I guess I do have a question:
Step 12 CHECK OUTPUT SIGNAL EMITTED FROM TCM.
says:
1) Throttle is fully opend [sic].

so this means the car is on and I've got my foot down (in N prolly), eh?

2) Measure voltage between TCM connector and chassis ground. Connector & terminal (B54) No. 9 (+) — Chassis ground ( − − − − ): Is the measured value less than the specified value?

and I haven't tested that part yet but that's where I am...
Yes. This Step follows on Step #11, which is key On, engine Off, with everything connected. In Step 11, the throttle is not touched, and the duty cycle signal to the line pressure solenoid is high, consequently the measured 1.5 - 5 V. In step 12, the throttle is maxed. At that time the duty cycle signal is reduced, essentially turning off the line pressure solenoid and leaving line pressure at maximum. Step 12 is testing that the duty cycle responds to the throttle; it doesn't actually check the solenoid itself. You might also hear the solenoid clicking in step 11, and the sound changes in step 12.

In Step #9, continuity was checked from T4 #5, to T4 #16. This is checking through the solenoid and transmission ground (#16 is the return/ground to the TCM for most of the solenoids). If that was good, then if there is an open circuit, high resistance or a short to ground (which is what code 75 is indicating), it's probably elsewhere.

Did you ever try that contact cleaner on the transmission harness connectors? Asking because it appears bad contacts were the cause of a challenging fault in http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/109-gen-3-2005-2009/388490-p1714-driving-me-crazzzy.html.

Perhaps try: Remove the dropping resistor. Then disconnect connectors B54 and B55 from the TCM. Measure the resistance between harness connector B54 pin #9 (TCM output to line pressure solenoid) and connector B55 pins #9 and #19 (solenoid ground return to TCM). This will, in effect, check the continuity through the solenoid and the intermediate connectors (connected).
 

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is this a VDC labeled car?

or a Canadian Limited, american ll bean, or cloth seat base H6? All these 2003 without VDC (or VTD) will have a fuse space under the hood to insert a fuse to make it a front drive car. this "may" change the way it drives for testing purposes.

(2003 VDC's have that logo on the front fenders, and a VDC off button inside,.
..and with all the problems you got, a currently lit VDC off light on the dash,...but no way to shut the rear off).
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
is this a VDC labeled car? or a Canadian Limited, american ll bean, or cloth seat base H6? All these 2003 without VDC (or VTD) will have a fuse space under the hood to insert a fuse to make it a front drive car. this "may" change the way it drives for testing purposes.
no VDC; you got a photo of that "fuse space", "for testing purposes" ;)
 
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