My goal is install Polk Audio DB651 speakers flush against the door, with all three screws in.
Currently, I'm using the adapters that came with the polks and they do not lay flat against the door, and only 2 of the screws line up. When I switched the fronts to the proper adapters, the sound quality was much better. I believe this is because the speakers lined up and sealed against the door and took advantage of using the door cavity for extra bass.
I just happened to be looking into this exact same question. I have an Australian Outback 2005 2.5i.
Took the panels and speakers off and made some templates of the holes. The front has holes at 0, 130 and -130 degrees at a radius of about 88mm. The rear has holes at 0, 130, -130 degrees at a radius of about 92mm. So if you start with a front speaker adaptor and extend the holes radially by 4mm it should fit pretty well. Note: I haven’t actually done this so there could be some unexpected issue doing it this way.
So, whilst IA Tuning say their adaptors would fit both front and rear, I can’t see how that can be the case (unless you modify as per the 4mm radial adjustment above). If you order two IA Tuning kits it would cost US$44 plus shipping (cost?). If you buy the custom made PVC ones it costs US$76 including shipping.
When I checked the MJM vehicle checker, it said the SAK032 wouldn’t fit an Outback/Legacy, so not sure if I did something differently. SAK065 do apparently fit the front, but no rear solution (unless you modify as above). Car-speaker-adapters.com would cost about US$80 for two kits.
What about tweeters? Has anyone found either a tweeter that fits the existing bracket (35mm diameter), or a supplier of brackets?
What about speaker plugs? Reading a few different posts, think the right ones are Metra 72-8104 for the front and 72-9300 for the rear, be good to have this confirmed by someone who has done the speaker upgrades.
Here is a summary of what I ended up doing in case it’s useful for others.
I wanted to do this without drilling holes and making it totally reversible so I can put it back to stock if necesssary.
I used “connects2 CT25SU03” mounting brackets for both front and rear. They come from the UK. I got mine over eBay. They are a perfect fit for the fronts. For the rear, I extended the mount holes radially by 4mm with a file (described above) and switched left from right. I switched the left and right rear ones because they interfere with the door metal frame if you try to mount the left on the left etc. They fit fine the other way, with the exception of a little interference with the door card. I solved that by trimming away a little bit of plastic from the inside of the door card. After that, a ‘perfect fit’ for the rear.
I’m far from being an expert but I think normally with these mounting brackets you mount the speakers on top of the bracket, and then you need longer trim plugs for the door card so the door card doesn’t hit the speakers. I wanted to avoid this because I didn’t want a gap between the door card and the metal door frame. To achieve this I mounted the speakers on the backside of the mounting brackets. When viewed from the backside, the mounting brackets are made from two concentric rings, with screw mounts for the speakers in between the two concentric rings. I trimmed off about 8mm of the inner ring, which allowed the speakers to mount neatly inside the mounting brackets and not protrude out the backside. I chose a speaker with lugs for the mounting screws that stick out from the speaker body so that I could trim the lugs back 2mm to ensure they fit inside the outer concentric ring. Speakers with a solid rim going all the way around will be difficult to mount on the backside. I used Pioneer A series speakers.
Sounds complicated in words, but not complicated in reality. I can post a photo if anyone is interested...
1. Left rear speaker mounted with a right mounting bracket
2. Same speaker taken off the door and looking at the back. Hopefully you can see the mounting holes extended by a few millimetres
3. Close up of the mounting lugs for the speakers. I trimmed 2mm of the lugs so they would fit inside the backside of the mounting brackets
4. Close up of the mounting brackets after I had removed 8mm of the inner concentric ring. The speaker mounting holes are left unmodified so the lugs sit flush on the top of the mounting holes and the face of the speaker sits flush again the inner concentric ring
5. The 8mm that I trimmed off. I did this by mounting the dremel cutting tool in the chuck of a drill press, then just moved the mounting bracket around the cutting tool
6. The left front speaker in place with a left mounting bracket
7. The bags the mounting brackets came in. Note that they are made of a stiff (but not brittle) plastic, not wood
As a final note, when mounted this way with these speakers there was no interference with the door windows when in the open or closed positions
I also installed a new head unit with the double din fascia, but that’s another story. End result: thousand times better than the stock setup!