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2005 with 2.5 SOHC
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello friend! **A mod helped organize the discussion so scroll down further for a write-up on the problem. This first post was my intro post registering with the site.

I drive a jeep! 'Then why did you register on the outback forum' you say!? Well that's because my girlfriend and I have grown close enough that we'll soon share a garage. So, I'm now fixing her car, partly because I do work on my own jeep and partly because she can't afford a knowledgable mechanic in our region. (Last one broke some things and told her they couldn't be fixed.) I'm currently experiencing a hard stop on the camshaft after a valve adjustment of all things, so I'll head over to the problems & maintenance section and post there... I doubt it'll be the last time, as jeeper forums have also helped me in the past.

So yeah... Have a great day!
 

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2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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Hello friend!

I drive a jeep! 'Then why did you register on the outback forum' you say!? Well that's because my girlfriend and I have grown close enough that we'll soon share a garage. So, I'm now fixing her car, partly because I do work on my own jeep and partly because she can't afford a knowledgable mechanic in our region. (Last one broke some things and told her they couldn't be fixed.) I'm currently experiencing a hard stop on the camshaft after a valve adjustment of all things, so I'll head over to the problems & maintenance section and post there... I doubt it'll be the last time, as jeeper forums have also helped me in the past.

So yeah... Have a great day!
saved you some time and moved this to the gen3 section and retitled it.

2005 are strange rangers,....last of the old short blocks first of the new heads, making for a unique bunch of parts in a single year.
 

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and,...you might be out looking for a US spec EJ253 2005 long block from a legacy or a legacy outback.

not newer or older, good news: rear end wrecks getting towed into parts yards this time a year. maybe you even luck out and find a low miles one with a quality head gasket job on it already. (these leak oil externally with subarus original gaskets on them).

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market and similar.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
SOHC Valve Adj. gone wrong - Camshaft stopped turning

Hello All! I'm working on my girlfriend's subi and have experience working on my jeep, but I'm pretty much a novice with engine work so I could use some help. I'll give a comprehensive run down below, but the general idea is after a valve adjustment, two lock nuts backed off (one totally off) and while repeating the job, the camshaft had some slight resistance and then came to a hard stop even with the arms backed off. I don't see any damage from the nuts and found it sitting just below where it fell from.


The subi is a 2005 outback with the 2.5 SOHC and 257k miles on it. Its run surprisngly well so far, with two years since any serious tune up. It all started when the oil and power steering fluid were both low, so my girlfriend filled both. She complained about a whining noise telling me it was her engine. I found the power steering needed to be bled and she didn't buy the right kind. I replaced its accessory belt and I also checked out her spark plugs to discover a bad oil leak. The engine was dirty on the outside with oil sludge and there's a slow coolant leak dripping from what seems the center of the timing belt cover. All cylinders had signs of oil at one point, but #2 and #4 were wet. I cleaned them best I could with rags wet with brake cleaner, wiped everything dry, pulled the filthy plugs, and replaced all the gaskets, grommets, wires, etc. I also adjusted valves for my first time. I had the battery out and the key left in ignition in to stay in neutral.

Some clearances were in spec, others very off like #3, but cylinder #4 exhaust valves were essentially held open with no play at TDC. I adjusted everything to spec always turning the cam 90 degrees for TDC following the firing order and double checking my work with extra rotations as recommended.

I bolted everything back up, probably putting 5 - 10 ft/lbs of torque on the small10mm lock nuts. PCV hoses (covered in oil on inside) were cracked on their bottoms but I reinstalled for the time being. Started her up and there's a noise almost like a rod, but a little different and doesn't vary the volume with slow revs. Engine ran for no more than five minutes overall, only revved slowly to 3500 RPM trying to diagnose it. The noise is most similar to this video that ended up being a loosened camshaft bolt.

I opened the valve covers to find one lock nut had fallen off on #3's intake and another intake's nut on the passenger side backed off. That left the threads backed off leaving a ton of clearance between the arms and springs (as opposed to tightening down and holding them open). Everything else was close to spec. Redoing the adjustments, I torqued them down pretty hard, but still only with my 10mm wrench. Everything went fine leading up to #4's TDC alignment (last one).

There was slightly more resistance in camshaft rotation when turning over to triple check #3's clearances. Then moving on to #4 TDC as my last one, I hit a hard stop... I didn't force it. I felt that it was #3 and 4's camshaft since it didn't feel like the belt was transmitting the stop from the other side. I was at a loss, and eventually backed off 3 and 4's clearances so nothing would be held open and smack together. This got me one free rotation, then the next rotation delivered another hard stop (with the arms still backed off as far as possible to avoid any collisions).

Does this mean the valvetrain needs to be disasssembled? Any insight into which parts are messed up?
I highly doubt I forgot to tighten the lock nuts, I never make those kind of mistakes on repairs, but who knows. The threads look fine, even checked them with my thread gauges on the studs and nuts to check for play. Its a sour feeling to mess up your girlfriends car when doing a repair... could really use some help here. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I appreciate the feedback, eagleeye! I'm pretty concerned about the engine adding up all the costs of a rebuild. I think best case scenario for me is to locate exactly whats happening on this camshaft and replace the necessary parts (assuming costs don't sky rocket like a chipped lobe, etc.)

I'm starting to think a lot of learning on complete engine breakdowns is in my near future.. praying for the subi gurus to shed some light. I'm beginning to wonder if the timing belt could of jumped without me realizing it as the binding on the cam is inbetween TDC for #2 and #4. The sound is almost like a mix between a bad timing tensioner and a rod.
 

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I appreciate the feedback, eagleeye! I'm pretty concerned about the engine adding up all the costs of a rebuild. I think best case scenario for me is to locate exactly whats happening on this camshaft and replace the necessary parts (assuming costs don't sky rocket like a chipped lobe, etc.)


The name of the post is SOHC Valve Adj. gone wrong - Camshaft stopped turning in Problems and Maintenance section, this thread was just for my intro post.

I'm starting to feel a lot of learning on complete engine breakdowns is in my near future.. praying for the subi gurus to shed some light. I'm beginning to wonder if the timing belt could of jumped without me realizing it as the binding on the cam is inbetween TDC for #2 and #4. Sounds almost like mix between a bad timing tensioner and a rod. I posted a youtube link for evquivalent sound on the thread.
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merged threads. left it in gen 3.

the video just linked, (must be something like a 1999 forester there ).
 
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Have you confirmed the timing marks are still in alignment? Sometimes lazy tensioners can cause issues if rocking the crank back and forth (like during lash adjustment). You'd have to hold that valve WIDE open in order to force contact between the valve and piston to cause a hard stop.

Worst case, you can align the timing marks, pull the t-belt, and rotate the cams independently to ensure the valves are closed for that particular lash check. With the crank mark aligned, the pistons are all retracted in the bores so no piston-valve contact is possible if free-wheeling the cams.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yep, after some thinking I came to the same conclusion. I think the timing is off and there's a leak near the water pump, so the Dayco timing kit with water pump WP307K1AS is in the mail.

The Gates kit timing kit is recommended on the forum, but most posts are 2+ years old. Recent reviews on three seperate sites claim the part sourcing has changed and they no longer recommended the brand. With no information on the other manufacturers, I figured the extra money was worth avoiding the risk of a failure.

Hopefully no internals are messed up and I can simply realign everything, redo the valve adjustment, and do all fluid changes. Then we can see how high these miles can go! I'll keep the thread updated, thanks.
 

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lately the posts here for timing kits are for Aisin as its still japanese made, http://partcat.com/aisin

and not for gates or dayco etc. for them shipping chinese made stuff in their boxes.
 
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