[kbillyedmonton]

Long time lurker, first time poster here.

I'm looking to replace my front pads and rotors. The local Midas wants over 600 dollars for this fix, including new fluid. This is way more than I should spend for something like this, ya? As a weekend wrench monkey I should be able to tackle this no problem? Thanks for any input.

 

[tdelker]

It's straight forward. I believe this is a DIY. Get the 8m bolts, makes taking front and rear rotors off a snap!

 

[Saint J VT]

For that much money, you could probably replace ALL the brakes doing it yourself!

Are you good with dismantling mechanical things, figuring things out and then able to put it all back together?

PS:
Take a look at my signature link!

 

[kbillyedmonton]

Thanks guys. I will do it my self for sure.

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

consider Centric premium rotors and Centric Posiquiet Ceramic pads. but there are many good options, including OEM.

this is good brake lube - should last you a long time;

and, as mentioned, you might look through here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/7832-diy-brake-pad-replacement-brake-flush-brake-bedding.html




good luck

 

[Saint J VT]

If the rear parking brake has been dragging, there may be a lip inside the rear disc/drum combination. When I removed my rear disc/drums, even though I turned the adjustment all the way loose, the parking brake shoes were still hung up. I screwed in the bolts against the hub flange, but still, caught, big-time.

By the time the old drums came off, the parking brake shoes and the upper triangle holder were bent. Everything in there was so rusty, the shoe facings fell off on the right side. I ended up replacing that top triangle as well as the Right and Left struts that are an inexpensive OEM Subaru metal bar that goes across about midsection of the forward and rearward shoes on each side (primary, secondary shoes). The strut bars are marked R and L. They are both different, being a mirror of each other.

If the innards had not fallen out and bent, I was going to get several pictures of how they were together. With the internet, you should have no problem finding where all the parts in the parking brake kit go, including the color-coded springs. I found a color photo somewhere which aided me in re-assembling the parking brake hardware. Be careful, some of those springs are mighty-tight, wear eye protection for sure!

 

[tdelker]

I highly suggest the speed bleeders. Much easier. They sent me the wrong thread the first time, FYI. I also have the 05 XT. I did not have the issue with the Ebrake hanging up when pulling my rear rotors. Luck of the draw I guess. I didn't even loose up the e-brake.

 

[young wheels]

Subiemods.com you can get stoptech ceramic pads and dbs slotted rotors shipped to your front doorstep for just under 300 if your just looking to do the front pads and rotors

 

[Saint J VT]

....I did not have the issue with the Ebrake hanging up when pulling my rear rotors....

I recall driving about 50 miles one time then realized the parking brake was on several clicks, needless to say the rear rotors/drums were hot as could be and smoking. I'm glad that's all replaced now.

There is a break-in procedure for the new parking brake shoes to the new rotor integrated drum. Drive about 20 MPH, pull on the parking brake two or three clicks, until you feel a bit of drag, not a lot, just a bit. Go one mile at 20 MPH or so, in a place where you can do this without stopping at all.

After one mile, take off the brake, drive five minutes to cool the drum, then repeat one more time for one mile at about 20 MPH, then release the brake and drive for five more minutes to cool it down.

Now the new shoes should be conformed to the new disc-drum assembly. Not that it matters much, however it probably does cause the new shoes to need less pressure to prevent the wheel from turning while the parking brake is pulled in the on position.

 

[Blue Whale]

Unless there's a problem with the rotors (warped, or badly gouged from the pads having worn down to the metal behind them), you don't need to replace them, or even turn them. Normally, you can just replace the pads; it's one of the easiest DYI jobs there is. Forget about Midas. Years ago, a Midas shop told a friend of mine that she needed new rear brake shoes (drum brakes), as they were almost completely worn out. It was going to cost a lot, needless to say. I pulled off a wheel and drum and checked; the brakes were barely worn, and she needed no brake work at all.

 

[ChromeDomeAl]

I STRONGLY caution against just doing a 'pad job' versus new/turning the rotors. I ran a shop for years and gained more customers from our competitor's 'pad jobs' than anything else. It's not a safety issue, but more so an issue of longevity. Your new pads need a virgin surface to mate with in order to be most effective. (If your rotors can be turned, this works as well as new rotors.)

 

[avk]

It is very important to spend time on cleaning and lubricating the hardware. I believe this what affects the pad longevity more than anything else, preventing tapered wear, sticking, and seizing.

 

[mudi911s]

It's straight forward. I believe this is a DIY. Get the 8m bolts, makes taking front and rear rotors off a snap!

Please enlighten me on the use of the 8 mm bolts. I'm guess you run them into the threads on teh face of the rotor to push it off the hub? am i correct??

 

[tdelker]

That's it!

 

[mudi911s]

Sweet, worked like a charm.. thanks

 

[tdelker]

Yes, it does! Much better than beating with a hammer!