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06 Outback 2.5i
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking to get the best for my 06 Outback, which is leaking oil at a decent rate (3qts in 5K miles). It's also overheating on uphills, so might as well fix the HGs in an effort to solve this.

So I've begun digging deep into the depths of this forum to find whatever information I can.

I've found the famed "Hello from Bangor" thread with ntippet's poor experience with the viton-coated Six Star gaskets.

So for me, that means I'll rule out any viton-coated gaskets (Fel-Pro 26415 PT, Six Star 11044AA633B, & Cometic C4622-032). I understand the viton coated HG's have a higher RA requirement (<50-80) then the OEM HG's (<20 RA).

So that leaves the turbo EJ255/EJ257 HG's, the 11044AA642 and the 11044AA770.

Apparently there was a change with the 2006 EJ255 to improve cooling that required a revised HG, the 11044AA770. What that means for 2006 EJ253 - I'm not sure.
 

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'17 3.6R Touring Brillant Brown Pearl
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I've got around 750 K miles on 6 star head gaskets without any failures. Every failure I've ever heard of was caused by faulty installation.

I dunno what your so worried about.
 

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06 Outback 2.5i
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443 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've got around 750 K miles on 6 star head gaskets without any failures. Every failure I've ever heard of was caused by faulty installation.

I dunno what your so worried about.
750K on 1 engine? That's quite impressive!

This is what I'm worried about:

(source: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/4733546-post10.html)

Anyway, I'm starting to piece together a part list.

Head kit
Head Gaskets - 2x 11044AA642 - $35 on Amazon (or 11044AA770, pending the results of this thread???)
Intake gaskets - 2x 14035AA383
Exhaust gaskets - 2x 44022AA020
Cam seals - 2x 806732150
Front Crank seal - 806733030
Six Star Bernie sells this all as a kit for $129, might do that, or just order the HGs on Amazon and piece the rest together at the dealer.

Valve cover kit
Leaning towards the fel-pro or beck arnley valve cover kits

Oil separator plate
My car was built 08/2005 and according to opposed forces means it has the 11831AA150 oil separator plate - the aluminum version.
Six star bernie has a kit for this too

Rear main seal
806786040

Rear cam oil plugs
Not sure if needed... 807045040

Water pump/timing belt
Defiantly want to replace the gates WP in there, I don't trust it with the overheating issues.
An OEM kit is $120. Debating/still researching that vs an NPW kit for $80 or an Aisin kit for $63.
Timing belt is all gates and was replaced 20k ago. I inspected it about a month ago, and everything looked good, so I will keep it.

AVCS
Not sure, what if anything, I need to replace anything here
AVCS Oil Pressure switch - 2x 25240AA060
AVCS gasket - 2x 10924AA040

Oil pump
Plan on replacing the o-ring between the block and oil pump 10991AA001
There's also a sealing part 15048AA001 - might order that just in case
Plan on removing screws, cleaning & reinstalling with loctite.

Other odds and ends
Oil filler tube o-ring 806923060 (might be x2?)
Coolant tube o-rings - 2x 806933010 (this is for the metal coolant tube underneath the intake manifold)
Valve stems - 4x 13207AA120 / 4x 13211AA110 An OEM kit is $27 on eBay. and I could borrow a spring compressor from the parts store.

Other Questions/uncertainities
  • Don't have a confirmation on the Ra spec for OEM HG's. FSM didn't have one, nor did my haynes manual.
  • Not sure on the engine removal process - do folks pull the intake manifold first or strap around the intake manifold?
  • Cams - can these be left on when pulling the heads?
 

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2005 Outback 2.5i - 5 speed - 191K
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I'm in the middle of my HG replacement project. I ran into several issues. There are several threads I started for this project. I asked the HG question and decided on the OEM Turbo HG's. I ordered one on Amazon for $35 and they sent me two. I decided to do both HG's. I am putting the engine back together this week I hope. I also replaced the oil separator with the new style steel one. I also replaced my pilot bearing (cheap and easy while flywheel was off), New release bearing. Advice, if you do the water pump check the old bolts. If they are messed up just buy new ones. Less than $8 from Subaru and they torque down better than the old Ones. I also replaced the oil pan and got new oil pan bolts. The old ones were fine but most had gasket material all over them. New bolts were $6. Would taken hours to clean the old ones. Plus the new ones will torque down better. My timing belt was fine (less than 10k miles) but I replaced the toothed idler pulley.

I had to do a head bolt thread repair. That was expensive because the tools I used where pricey. I have a thread on that.

I'm. Hoping it all goes together without problems.

Good luck
 

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06 Outback 2.5i
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443 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm in the middle of my HG replacement project. I ran into several issues. There are several threads I started for this project. I asked the HG question and decided on the OEM Turbo HG's. I ordered one on Amazon for $35 and they sent me two. I decided to do both HG's. I am putting the engine back together this week I hope. I also replaced the oil separator with the new style steel one. I also replaced my pilot bearing (cheap and easy while flywheel was off), New release bearing. Advice, if you do the water pump check the old bolts. If they are messed up just buy new ones. Less than $8 from Subaru and they torque down better than the old Ones. I also replaced the oil pan and got new oil pan bolts. The old ones were fine but most had gasket material all over them. New bolts were $6. Would taken hours to clean the old ones. Plus the new ones will torque down better. My timing belt was fine (less than 10k miles) but I replaced the toothed idler pulley.

I had to do a head bolt thread repair. That was expensive because the tools I used where pricey. I have a thread on that.

I'm. Hoping it all goes together without problems.

Good luck
Thanks for the tips, I'll add the WP bolts to the list. How come you replaced the oil pan? Or did you just replace the oil pan gasket? I think I'll plan on replacing the oil pan gasket while the engine is off..

I also have the problem that my closest subaru dealer is 40 miles away, so I'd like to pre-order all the parts in one go, so I'm not riding my motorcycle 80 miles in the middle of a work day to get parts...
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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Resurface your heads - I don't see that on your list.

The rear separator shouldn't need replaced as yours should have the metal one as you've researched right? Just reseal it.

The rear cam plugs very rarely leak and aren't replaced unless leaking. If they do you and just clean them and squish a bead of silicone around the edge/groove with your finger and it's repaired. For that matter - you could just do it now while the engine is out and you'll never have to think about them again.

Get the Aisin water pump kit. Make sure to use an OEM or stamped water pump gasket like OEM. the gasket material type gaskets are inferior to these and prone to leak.

There's no need to replace water pump bolts.

If you have a manual I'd do a complete clutch job.

The auto parts store valve spring compressors suck on subaru heads, they are not easy to remove valve springs from. I've tried multiple tools and all of them sucked, i ended up making my own. Cut a slot in an old socket and threaded all thread through it, then a cam sprocket on the top of the all thread. I lean down on the cam - compress the spring and pull the keepers out of the slots with magnets.
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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750K on 1 engine? That's quite impressive!

This is what I'm worried about:

(source: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/4733546-post10.html)

Anyway, I'm starting to piece together a part list.

Head kit
Head Gaskets - 2x 11044AA642 - $35 on Amazon (or 11044AA770, pending the results of this thread???)
Intake gaskets - 2x 14035AA383
Exhaust gaskets - 2x 44022AA020
Cam seals - 2x 806732150
Front Crank seal - 806733030
Six Star Bernie sells this all as a kit for $129, might do that, or just order the HGs on Amazon and piece the rest together at the dealer.

You can save yourself a good-bit of change by using FelPro intake, exhaust, and cam seals. The sealing requirements for the manifolds are not nearly as specific as the head gaskets. Usually, the cam seals from FelPro are reboxed NSK or Koyo (like OE).


Valve cover kit
Leaning towards the fel-pro or beck arnley valve cover kits
FelPros work just fine

Oil separator plate
My car was built 08/2005 and according to opposed forces means it has the 11831AA150 oil separator plate - the aluminum version.
Six star bernie has a kit for this too

Reseal and reuse. However, get yourself a GOOD, LARGE philips screwdriver, one with a "hex drive" and a place to hammer. Those screws will strip easily unless you can shock them loose first.

Rear main seal
806786040

Rear cam oil plugs
Not sure if needed... 807045040

Water pump/timing belt
Defiantly want to replace the gates WP in there, I don't trust it with the overheating issues.
An OEM kit is $120. Debating/still researching that vs an NPW kit for $80 or an Aisin kit for $63.
Timing belt is all gates and was replaced 20k ago. I inspected it about a month ago, and everything looked good, so I will keep it.

OEM is definitely more than $120 for the kit. The pump alone is ~$100. For a pump,
belt, and components, it's closer to $400 for all the pieces for true "OEM". However, the Aisin kit is good,
and no complaints from the Dayco nor Gates kits (even though the Gates bearings are Chinese made.
Not Koyo or NTN like OE. Dayco has been using Koyo recently.

AVCS AVLS. AVCS is variable cam timing. You have variable lift.
Not sure, what if anything, I need to replace anything here
AVCS Oil Pressure switch - 2x 25240AA060
AVCS gasket - 2x 10924AA040

If not leaking, leave it. However, if you are truly resurfacing the heads, you'll need the adapter block gasket for the pass side head.

Oil pump
Plan on replacing the o-ring between the block and oil pump 10991AA001
There's also a sealing part 15048AA001 - might order that just in case
Plan on removing screws, cleaning & reinstalling with loctite.

This is one of those "let sleeping dogs lie" sort of things. Unless you have very high mileage or low oil pressure problems, leave it alone.

Other odds and ends
Oil filler tube o-ring 806923060 (might be x2?) Two, but you shouldn't need to remove unless for replacement or oil pan removal.
Coolant tube o-rings - 2x 806933010 (this is for the metal coolant tube underneath the intake manifold) Removal of the crossover is not required for this job. If not leaking, leave it.
Valve stems - 4x 13207AA120 / 4x 13211AA110 An OEM kit is $27 on eBay. and I could borrow a spring compressor from the parts store. I assume you mean the valve stem seals? These are a non-issue on EJ motors and unless you have SEVERE oil burning issues or are physically damaged.
Also look into the FelPro set. These are reboxed FHI seals.

Other Questions/uncertainities
  • Don't have a confirmation on the Ra spec for OEM HG's. FSM didn't have one, nor did my haynes manual. Most sources can't/won't tell you as you'd also need to surface the block (which most places are not equipped to handle an assembled short block on a deck/planar machine).
  • Not sure on the engine removal process - do folks pull the intake manifold first or strap around the intake manifold? Leave the intake manifold, undoing all the connections can be a pain on the car. Just be conscious about the DBW motor on the throttle body if using a single lift chain/strap rather than two separate lift chains/straps.
  • Cams - can these be left on when pulling the heads? Yes. You won't need to disassemble the heads unless for valve work.
Sounds like a solid list, but for the head parts, I assume you're stripping the heads down for cleaning/surfacing?

If so, have the valve guides checked. Once the AVLS heads have been overheated, the valve guides like to drop down and hold-open the exhaust valves causing low/no compression.

But don't spook too much about perfect surface hardness/finish. As long as the deck is clean, flat, and not filed with 20 grit sandpaper, you should have a long service life.
 

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06 Outback 2.5i
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Resurface your heads - I don't see that on your list.
Yes, I am planning on doing that. There's only 3 machine shops in town, and I'm trying to figure out which one.

Option 1. $40/head. When I spoke with them over the phone, he didn't know what an Ra/roughness average was, but promised a "smooth, nice finish". Said something to the affect "I read too many things" :laugh:

Option 2. $66/head. Doesn't have a gauge, so can't do a specific Ra/roughness average. He said he's the only shop in town that uses a PCD cutter (not sure what that is). They do 2-3 subaru jobs a month

Option 3. $58/head. Says it will have a pleateau'd finish and he said "sure, I can do what you'd like" as far as a Ra goes. They use a surface grinder.

Interestingly enough, I called the nearest subaru dealer. They said they pull the engine to complete the repair, and send the heads off to be "checked". If they are not in spec, they toss them and buy new heads. They said they've never re-surfaced any heads.

The rear separator shouldn't need replaced as yours should have the metal one as you've researched right? Just reseal it.
Yes, but I believe my car has the middle aluminum iteration - not the final steel iteration.

The rear cam plugs very rarely leak and aren't replaced unless leaking. If they do you and just clean them and squish a bead of silicone around the edge/groove with your finger and it's repaired. For that matter - you could just do it now while the engine is out and you'll never have to think about them again.
Ok, I'll plan on doing the silicone repair and won't replace the parts unless they are leaking. Do you mean silicone RTV (ultra grey/etc) or silicone like you use to seal your sink/faucet?

Get the Aisin water pump kit. Make sure to use an OEM or stamped water pump gasket like OEM. the gasket material type gaskets are inferior to these and prone to leak.

There's no need to replace water pump bolts.
OK. Was planning on an OEM gasket no matter what. I'll pass on the bolts unless they are in bad shape upon disassembly.


If you have a manual I'd do a complete clutch job.
I have an auto. Anything on the transmission I should? Output shaft seal or anything?

The auto parts store valve spring compressors suck on subaru heads, they are not easy to remove valve springs from. I've tried multiple tools and all of them sucked, i ended up making my own. Cut a slot in an old socket and threaded all thread through it, then a cam sprocket on the top of the all thread. I lean down on the cam - compress the spring and pull the keepers out of the slots with magnets.
You wouldn't have a picture of this tool? Or is there an old thread I can find?

Sounds like a solid list, but for the head parts, I assume you're stripping the heads down for cleaning/surfacing?
Stripping meaning removing the valves? Wasn't planning on doing that originally. Am considering the valve stem seals.

If so, have the valve guides checked. Once the AVLS heads have been overheated, the valve guides like to drop down and hold-open the exhaust valves causing low/no compression.
Hmm, what do you mean by overheated? I've never hit the red on the gauge, but my temp gauge has gone up 3/4 (~230F) on a few occasions.

But don't spook too much about perfect surface hardness/finish. As long as the deck is clean, flat, and not filed with 20 grit sandpaper, you should have a long service life.
Thanks, wasn't sure if this should be a point of emphasis or not. I have few machine shop options

You can save yourself a good-bit of change by using FelPro intake, exhaust, and cam seals. The sealing requirements for the manifolds are not nearly as specific as the head gaskets. Usually, the cam seals from FelPro are reboxed NSK or Koyo (like OE).
Copy that. Plus the intake or exhaust gaskets are not *that* difficult to replace if they were to fail later.

What about the exhaust nuts? Recommend replacing those?

Reseal and reuse. However, get yourself a GOOD, LARGE philips screwdriver, one with a "hex drive" and a place to hammer. Those screws will strip easily unless you can shock them loose first.
I'll make a note to be careful here... I have an impact drill. I also have a reed prince screwdriver that seems to do well on JIS bolts found on my japanese made cars and motorcycles.
Digging around a little more, it looks like the old screws were a different design

OEM is definitely more than $120 for the kit. The pump alone is ~$100. For a pump,
belt, and components, it's closer to $400 for all the pieces for true "OEM". However, the Aisin kit is good,
and no complaints from the Dayco nor Gates kits (even though the Gates bearings are Chinese made.
Not Koyo or NTN like OE. Dayco has been using Koyo recently.
Oh, I'm only planning on replacing the WP. Timing belt is 25k old. I just don't trust the gates water pump.

AVCS is variable cam timing. You have variable lift.

If not leaking, leave it. However, if you are truly resurfacing the heads, you'll need the adapter block gasket for the pass side head.
Reason I listed it is because All Wheel Drive Auto recommends replacing AVCS switches and AVCS gaskets for head gasket repairs on 06+ models. I'll look into AVCS vs ALVS.

This is one of those "let sleeping dogs lie" sort of things. Unless you have very high mileage or low oil pressure problems, leave it alone.
OK, I'll just inspect the oil pump instead. I'm at 150K, but no (known) low oil pressure problems

Other odds and ends
Oil filler tube o-ring 806923060 (might be x2?) Two, but you shouldn't need to remove unless for replacement or oil pan removal.
Coolant tube o-rings - 2x 806933010 (this is for the metal coolant tube underneath the intake manifold) Removal of the crossover is not required for this job. If not leaking, leave it.
Valve stems - 4x 13207AA120 / 4x 13211AA110 An OEM kit is $27 on eBay. and I could borrow a spring compressor from the parts store. I assume you mean the valve stem seals? These are a non-issue on EJ motors and unless you have SEVERE oil burning issues or are physically damaged.
Also look into the FelPro set. These are reboxed FHI seals.
Yes, valve stem seals. My car is leaking/loosing a lot of oil at the moment - 3qts in 5k miles. Wanted to just take care of all potential leaks in one go, while it's easy and out of the car....

Other Questions/uncertainities
Don't have a confirmation on the Ra spec for OEM HG's. FSM didn't have one, nor did my haynes manual. Most sources can't/won't tell you as you'd also need to surface the block (which most places are not equipped to handle an assembled short block on a deck/planar machine).
Not sure on the engine removal process - do folks pull the intake manifold first or strap around the intake manifold? Leave the intake manifold, undoing all the connections can be a pain on the car. Just be conscious about the DBW motor on the throttle body if using a single lift chain/strap rather than two separate lift chains/straps.
Cams - can these be left on when pulling the heads? Yes. You won't need to disassemble the heads unless for valve work.
OK, so they can machine the heads with the valves on?
Any prep work I should do on the block?
Where do you hook the chain(s) on the engine to hoist it out of the car?
 

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OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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Machine shops don?t measure roughness, so I wouldn?t be surprised if they blew that question off. the proper equipment will get you an appropriate range. A Blanchard grinder is best if that?s what one place uses but I wouldn?t worry about it too much as long as they?re not hacks, an actual automotive machine shop and not Using a hand file.

It?s easy to resurface yourself if you?re doing much of the labor anyway. Just look it up.

Subaru dealers usually don?t resurface and it?s actually next to pointless to ask them why for a long series of very clear reasons I?m not going to explain.

Reseal the oil pump. It?s easy cheap and right in your face. And make sure you have a larger oil pump some of the smaller 7mm pumps are terrible excuses for oil supply but I don?t recall which year EJ25s got those tiny pumps. Get a 9mm.

I generally post few pictures, I don?t have the time. I think someone recently copied my description and did post pictures of you can find it, I think it was this forum.

Never use home sealants on automotive applications. Use standard automotive sealants, the Right Stuff, permatex, etc.
 

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Yes heads can be machined without touching the valves.

Clean and prep the block, you can search for it. You can ask the shops if they can resurface that too, but most aren?t set up for that large of a job. It?s rarely done and not necessary. Clean with block face pointing down so debris tends to fall to the floor and not in the block passages, particularly the oil passage. You can google block prep.
 

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2005 OBXT Limited, VF37, STI intake, 5MT
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Stripping meaning removing the valves? Wasn't planning on doing that originally. Am considering the valve stem seals. Resurfacing creates lots of fine particles that get EVERYWHERE. You will want to sterilize the head after such a proceedure, and that should be done by completely stripping and soaking in a solvent/degreaser/hot water and soap bath. Leaving the heads assembled only invites premature wear.

This doesn't mean it's not done a regular basis, but ideally, you want them bare.


Hmm, what do you mean by overheated? I've never hit the red on the gauge, but my temp gauge has gone up 3/4 (~230F) on a few occasions. For long, extended periods, this can be problematic down the road. usually, indifferent people will not check the coolant level, the HG leak,
and the heads suffer. The fix is to have them pressed out and replaced with lightly-knurled replacements.


What about the exhaust nuts? Recommend replacing those? If they are in good shape,
no reason to replace. The factory ones from this era are usually made from a nice, corrosion resistant material (which is why they can still be "gold" colored while the studs in the head look like ****).

Reason I listed it is because All Wheel Drive Auto recommends replacing AVCS switches and AVCS gaskets for head gasket repairs on 06+ models. I'll look into AVCS vs ALVS. That IS the correct sensor for your system, but AWD Auto has it incorrectly listed as "AVCS". The AVCS system changes the cam timing and uses a variable cam sprocket and multi-chamber solenoid. The AVLS system uses an on/off solenoid and feedback pressure sensor (linked) to control half of the intake valve bank's lift.


Yes, valve stem seals. My car is leaking/loosing a lot of oil at the moment - 3qts in 5k miles. Wanted to just take care of all potential leaks in one go, while it's easy and out of the car.... While the heads are off, look carefully at the exhaust ports, spark plugs, and cylinder walls. If they are coated in thick, black carbon or the walls have scratches you can catch with your fingernails, you have an oil burning problem that is probably coming from the scored cylinder walls.


OK, so they can machine the heads with the valves on? They can, but shouldn't. See above.

Any prep work I should do on the block?
Where do you hook the chain(s) on the engine to hoist it out of the car?

There's a lift loop by the passenger's side rear of the engine block, right by the PCV tube, and a hole in the bracket between the alternator and A/C compressor. These are the OE lift points.
See quoted above.
 

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2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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27,165 Posts
Thank you both @idosubaru and @RoughDiamond for your thorough and detailed answers.

I think my final question is which gasket fits the 2006 2.5i with AVLS engines best - the 11044aa642 or the 11044aa770?
when I posted questions about the difference in the past year,

I got the feeling that on N/A engines like EJ251 or EJ253, the thickness issue its not going to make much of a difference.

(Edit: corrected by Ntippet, in next post:642 is the only correct one)

@ntippet (a mechanical engineer,...one that escaped a subaru dealer dungeon ) took the pic of his six stars coming off

and may have a more detailed suggestion as to which he would use on a 2006 EJ253 today.
 

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You are going to want to go with the 642 gasket for your 06' Outback.

The main differences between the 2 are the location of the coolant passage openings and their shape.
All '06 + EJ255 (WRX) uses the new HG. All '07+ EJ257 (STi) uses the new HG.
They also of course revised their cylinder head to match the the new openings. (chicken / egg)

The 642 gasket lines up these openings much more in line with what your cylinder head needs vs the 770 gasket does.

770 details:
Gasket - https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/GASKET-CYLINDER-HEAD/49223398/11044AA770.html

Head -

Gasket on Head -


642 details:
Gasket - https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/GASKET-CYLINDER-HEAD/49223394/11044AA642.html

Head -
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
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You are going to want to go with the 642 gasket for your 06' Outback.

The main differences between the 2 are the location of the coolant passage openings and their shape.
All '06 + EJ255 (WRX) uses the new HG. All '07+ EJ257 (STi) uses the new HG.
They also of course revised their cylinder head to match the the new openings. (chicken / egg)

The 642 gasket lines up these openings much more in line with what your cylinder head needs vs the 770 gasket does.

great post.

and is the 642 your choice today on the 2000-2004 EJ251/EJ252, rare 2004 EJ259, and 2005 EJ253 engines?

edit: and I guess poor EJ25D 1996-99.
 

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great post.

and is the 642 your choice today on the 2000-2004 EJ251/EJ252, rare 2004 EJ259, and 2005 EJ253 engines?

edit: and I guess poor EJ25D 1996-99.
Yes.

Though I would have to check on the DOHC EJ25D, I can't remember off hand what MLS gaskets I use on those.
 

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06 Outback 2.5i
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443 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
@ntippet, thank you for that post. What I'm hearing is that the 642 is the best for 06-09 ej253s as well.

What year Outback engine would you want to use the 770? Only the engines it comes stock with, correct? (ie 2010+ EJ25's)
 

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@ntippetWhat year Outback engine would you want to use the 770? Only the engines it comes stock with, correct? (ie 2010+ EJ25's)
Outback, Forester XT's, WRX, Sti, Newer Legacy and Outbacks

Full list for the 770:
Subaru Forester 2.5L TURBO 4AT XT 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013
Subaru Forester 2.5L TURBO 4AT XT Limited 2009, 2010
Subaru Forester 2.5L TURBO 4AT XT Touring Limited Plus 2011, 2012, 2013
Subaru Forester 2.5L TURBO AT XT Sports 2006, 2007, 2008
Subaru Forester 2.5L TURBO MT XT Sports 2006, 2007, 2008
Subaru Impreza 2.5L TURBO 5MT 4WD WRX Sedan 2006
Subaru Impreza 2.5L TURBO 5MT 4WD WRX TR Sedan 2006
Subaru Impreza 2.5L TURBO 5MT 4WD WRX Wagon 2006
Subaru Impreza 2.5L TURBO AT 4WD WRX Sedan 2006
Subaru Impreza 2.5L TURBO AT 4WD WRX Wagon 2006
Subaru Impreza 2.5L TURBO SS 4WD GT Sedan 2009, 2010
Subaru Impreza 2.5L TURBO SS 4WD GT Sport Sedan 2008
Subaru Impreza 2.5L TURBO SS 4WD GT Sport Wagon 2008
Subaru Impreza 2.5L TURBO SS 4WD GT Wagon 2009, 2010
Subaru Legacy 2.5L 6MT 4WD Premium Sedan 2010, 2011, 2012
Subaru Legacy 2.5L 6MT 4WD Sedan 2010, 2011, 2012
Subaru Legacy 2.5L CVT 4WD Limited 2010, 2011, 2012
Subaru Legacy 2.5L CVT 4WD Premium Sedan 2010, 2011, 2012
Subaru Legacy 2.5L CVT 4WD Sedan 2010, 2011, 2012
Subaru Legacy 2.5L TURBO 5AT 4WD GT Limited Sedan 2007, 2008, 2009
Subaru Legacy 2.5L TURBO 5AT 4WD GT Limited Wagon 2007
Subaru Legacy 2.5L TURBO 5MT 4WD GT Limited Sedan 2007, 2008, 2009
Subaru Legacy 2.5L TURBO 5MT 4WD GT Limited Wagon 2007
Subaru Legacy 2.5L TURBO 6MT 4WD GT Limited Sedan 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012
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I've got over 750K miles on 4 Outbacks with 6 star gaskets.

I think I remember that pic from a post. Wasn't the problem there a torque mistake?


I have a 1'X1' piece of 3/8" plate glass that I use 2000 grit sandpaper with to the get the heads/block to a near mirror finish. It only takes about 15 mins per surface.
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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I've got over 750K miles on 4 Outbacks with 6 star gaskets.

I think I remember that pic from a post. Wasn't the problem there a torque mistake?


I have a 1'X1' piece of 3/8" plate glass that I use 2000 grit sandpaper with to the get the heads/block to a near mirror finish. It only takes about 15 mins per surface.
it was @ntippet 's pic when he worked at the dealer,...on his own EJ259. ...so I hope not a torque mistake.

here it the text:
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...ook-here/38604-hello-bangor-3.html#post608602

and the reloaded pics on the end of the thread:
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/87-new-member-user-look-here/38604-hello-bangor.html
 
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