06 Outback 2.5i NA EJ253, HG Shopping - 11044AA642 vs 11044AA770?

cthies said:

I'm in the middle of my HG replacement project. I ran into several issues. There are several threads I started for this project. I asked the HG question and decided on the OEM Turbo HG's. I ordered one on Amazon for $35 and they sent me two. I decided to do both HG's. I am putting the engine back together this week I hope. I also replaced the oil separator with the new style steel one. I also replaced my pilot bearing (cheap and easy while flywheel was off), New release bearing. Advice, if you do the water pump check the old bolts. If they are messed up just buy new ones. Less than $8 from Subaru and they torque down better than the old Ones. I also replaced the oil pan and got new oil pan bolts. The old ones were fine but most had gasket material all over them. New bolts were $6. Would taken hours to clean the old ones. Plus the new ones will torque down better. My timing belt was fine (less than 10k miles) but I replaced the toothed idler pulley.

I had to do a head bolt thread repair. That was expensive because the tools I used where pricey. I have a thread on that.

I'm. Hoping it all goes together without problems.

Good luck

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jamesm113 said:

750K on 1 engine? That's quite impressive!

This is what I'm worried about:

(source: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/4733546-post10.html)

Anyway, I'm starting to piece together a part list.

Head kit
Head Gaskets - 2x 11044AA642 - $35 on Amazon (or 11044AA770, pending the results of this thread???)
Intake gaskets - 2x 14035AA383
Exhaust gaskets - 2x 44022AA020
Cam seals - 2x 806732150
Front Crank seal - 806733030
Six Star Bernie sells this all as a kit for $129, might do that, or just order the HGs on Amazon and piece the rest together at the dealer.

You can save yourself a good-bit of change by using FelPro intake, exhaust, and cam seals. The sealing requirements for the manifolds are not nearly as specific as the head gaskets. Usually, the cam seals from FelPro are reboxed NSK or Koyo (like OE).


Valve cover kit
Leaning towards the fel-pro or beck arnley valve cover kits
FelPros work just fine

Oil separator plate
My car was built 08/2005 and according to opposed forces means it has the 11831AA150 oil separator plate - the aluminum version.
Six star bernie has a kit for this too

Reseal and reuse. However, get yourself a GOOD, LARGE philips screwdriver, one with a "hex drive" and a place to hammer. Those screws will strip easily unless you can shock them loose first.

Rear main seal
806786040

Rear cam oil plugs
Not sure if needed... 807045040

Water pump/timing belt
Defiantly want to replace the gates WP in there, I don't trust it with the overheating issues.
An OEM kit is $120. Debating/still researching that vs an NPW kit for $80 or an Aisin kit for $63.
Timing belt is all gates and was replaced 20k ago. I inspected it about a month ago, and everything looked good, so I will keep it.

OEM is definitely more than $120 for the kit. The pump alone is ~$100. For a pump,
belt, and components, it's closer to $400 for all the pieces for true "OEM". However, the Aisin kit is good,
and no complaints from the Dayco nor Gates kits (even though the Gates bearings are Chinese made.
Not Koyo or NTN like OE. Dayco has been using Koyo recently.

AVCS AVLS. AVCS is variable cam timing. You have variable lift.
Not sure, what if anything, I need to replace anything here
AVCS Oil Pressure switch - 2x 25240AA060
AVCS gasket - 2x 10924AA040

If not leaking, leave it. However, if you are truly resurfacing the heads, you'll need the adapter block gasket for the pass side head.

Oil pump
Plan on replacing the o-ring between the block and oil pump 10991AA001
There's also a sealing part 15048AA001 - might order that just in case
Plan on removing screws, cleaning & reinstalling with loctite.

This is one of those "let sleeping dogs lie" sort of things. Unless you have very high mileage or low oil pressure problems, leave it alone.

Other odds and ends
Oil filler tube o-ring 806923060 (might be x2?) Two, but you shouldn't need to remove unless for replacement or oil pan removal.
Coolant tube o-rings - 2x 806933010 (this is for the metal coolant tube underneath the intake manifold) Removal of the crossover is not required for this job. If not leaking, leave it.
Valve stems - 4x 13207AA120 / 4x 13211AA110 An OEM kit is $27 on eBay. and I could borrow a spring compressor from the parts store. I assume you mean the valve stem seals? These are a non-issue on EJ motors and unless you have SEVERE oil burning issues or are physically damaged.
Also look into the FelPro set. These are reboxed FHI seals.

Other Questions/uncertainities

• Don't have a confirmation on the Ra spec for OEM HG's. FSM didn't have one, nor did my haynes manual. Most sources can't/won't tell you as you'd also need to surface the block (which most places are not equipped to handle an assembled short block on a deck/planar machine).
• Not sure on the engine removal process - do folks pull the intake manifold first or strap around the intake manifold? Leave the intake manifold, undoing all the connections can be a pain on the car. Just be conscious about the DBW motor on the throttle body if using a single lift chain/strap rather than two separate lift chains/straps.
• Cams - can these be left on when pulling the heads? Yes. You won't need to disassemble the heads unless for valve work.

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jamesm113 said:

Stripping meaning removing the valves? Wasn't planning on doing that originally. Am considering the valve stem seals. Resurfacing creates lots of fine particles that get EVERYWHERE. You will want to sterilize the head after such a proceedure, and that should be done by completely stripping and soaking in a solvent/degreaser/hot water and soap bath. Leaving the heads assembled only invites premature wear.

This doesn't mean it's not done a regular basis, but ideally, you want them bare.


Hmm, what do you mean by overheated? I've never hit the red on the gauge, but my temp gauge has gone up 3/4 (~230F) on a few occasions. For long, extended periods, this can be problematic down the road. usually, indifferent people will not check the coolant level, the HG leak,
and the heads suffer. The fix is to have them pressed out and replaced with lightly-knurled replacements.


What about the exhaust nuts? Recommend replacing those? If they are in good shape,
no reason to replace. The factory ones from this era are usually made from a nice, corrosion resistant material (which is why they can still be "gold" colored while the studs in the head look like ****).

Reason I listed it is because All Wheel Drive Auto recommends replacing AVCS switches and AVCS gaskets for head gasket repairs on 06+ models. I'll look into AVCS vs ALVS. That IS the correct sensor for your system, but AWD Auto has it incorrectly listed as "AVCS". The AVCS system changes the cam timing and uses a variable cam sprocket and multi-chamber solenoid. The AVLS system uses an on/off solenoid and feedback pressure sensor (linked) to control half of the intake valve bank's lift.


Yes, valve stem seals. My car is leaking/loosing a lot of oil at the moment - 3qts in 5k miles. Wanted to just take care of all potential leaks in one go, while it's easy and out of the car.... While the heads are off, look carefully at the exhaust ports, spark plugs, and cylinder walls. If they are coated in thick, black carbon or the walls have scratches you can catch with your fingernails, you have an oil burning problem that is probably coming from the scored cylinder walls.


OK, so they can machine the heads with the valves on? They can, but shouldn't. See above.

Any prep work I should do on the block?
Where do you hook the chain(s) on the engine to hoist it out of the car?

There's a lift loop by the passenger's side rear of the engine block, right by the PCV tube, and a hole in the bracket between the alternator and A/C compressor. These are the OE lift points.

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jamesm113 said:

Thank you both @idosubaru and @RoughDiamond for your thorough and detailed answers.

I think my final question is which gasket fits the 2006 2.5i with AVLS engines best - the 11044aa642 or the 11044aa770?

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ntippet said:

You are going to want to go with the 642 gasket for your 06' Outback.

The main differences between the 2 are the location of the coolant passage openings and their shape.
All '06 + EJ255 (WRX) uses the new HG. All '07+ EJ257 (STi) uses the new HG.
They also of course revised their cylinder head to match the the new openings. (chicken / egg)

The 642 gasket lines up these openings much more in line with what your cylinder head needs vs the 770 gasket does.

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eagleeye said:

great post.

and is the 642 your choice today on the 2000-2004 EJ251/EJ252, rare 2004 EJ259, and 2005 EJ253 engines?

edit: and I guess poor EJ25D 1996-99.

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Zedhead said:

I've got over 750K miles on 4 Outbacks with 6 star gaskets.

I think I remember that pic from a post. Wasn't the problem there a torque mistake?


I have a 1'X1' piece of 3/8" plate glass that I use 2000 grit sandpaper with to the get the heads/block to a near mirror finish. It only takes about 15 mins per surface.

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