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my abs and traction light is on and i have managed to get the codes doing the headlight switch and trip button to get the odometer to display the codes. went looking for the green plugs under the dash but couldnt find them. my wife was looking to and found a forester thread saying the plugs could be on the passenger side, And they are, but now i am looking for the diagnostic plug so i can ground the pins to clear the codes and see what comes back. For the life of me i can not find it. seems the different models have it in different spots under the dash on the drivers side. has anyone used the diagnostic plug on a 06 outback h6 vdc? is there a plug and where should i be looking

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If you are referring to the obd port it will be LH side, below the steering wheel along the black plastic cover/lower dash cover. If you mean the green test connectors on the right side by the trans tunnel, those are only hooked together when you are flashing the ecu, it puts the ecu in a write mode. If you are trying to clear the codes, try disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes. Then key to ON position for 10 seconds before starting(this allows DBW to do its thing so it doesnt take forever to start when cranking).
 

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I learnt from @plain OM that historic ABS codes wouldn't reset after the problem is fixed the way engine codes do. Advanced OBD-II scan tools can clear ABS codes but my free products FreeSSM and RomRaider didn't. I used the Cascade software to clear the ABS codes (which haven't returned) although a special cable is required. There's likely other scan tools available that can do this or the Subaru dealership can clear these codes for you. Hopefully the codes don't return on your car but please let us know how you get on with this.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
switchpnw no i dont mean the obd port the abs diagnostic port. kiwisix we usually us freessm with a generic vag cable for other things. also have a rosstech vag cable for my vw's. my wife is getting cascade as i type to try it tomorrow. the codes i did have was left speed sensors and a low px one. i had a bleeder that was weeping so that is fix not sure if that is what would cause that code. and have 2 sensors on order with 340k on the clocks now just want to eek a few more years out the car before the body starts to go.
 

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As kiwisix was saying some obd 2 scanners can clear them. I know some auto parts stores near me have them to loan for free to clear codes and monitor. You can also call and ask local shops if they have a good scanner, like a maxisys or snapon sonos. Some times they will clear the codes for you for free.
 

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**** the Windows Binary link at https://web.archive.org/web/20180308051828/http://cascade.fishpondstudios.com/download/ just goes to the way back time machine. git hub has the source code but that would need compiling. Kiwisix did you find a copy of the windows binary?
I downloaded awhile back via google searches for "cascade 0.9.4" but the links could have changed. Just make sure to run the anti virus scanner over any downloads. I did notice that it takes several attempts to connect ABS on my '07 with Cascade and VAG cable - when the baud rate field drops real low it's likely not going to work. But it does eventually & cleared the persistent ABS history codes. As folk here have said the simplest option is to find a workshop with a good scantool.
 

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I downloaded awhile back via google searches for "cascade 0.9.4" but the links could have changed. Just make sure to run the anti virus scanner over any downloads. I did notice that it takes several attempts to connect ABS on my '07 with Cascade and VAG cable - when the baud rate field drops real low it's likely not going to work. But it does eventually & cleared the persistent ABS history codes. As folk here have said the simplest option is to find a workshop with a good scantool.
I made a post in another thread not too long ago about Cascade with a download link... https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/the-case-of-the-overheating-h6.495737/post-5860946

I used it for years on my Hyundai Tiburon until I got a better device. Only played around with it a little on the Outback just out of curiosity. Worked perfectly with the KKL adapter I have. The com settings and quality of cable have a big impact on how reliably the program works.
 
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