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06 rear wiper dead, wiring harness diagrams?

20503 Views 45 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  plain OM
im pretty sure my rear wiper motor is dead but i want to test the wiring first, i know ive seen in multiple threads a link to the rear wiring diagram but now im having issues finding it, sifting through the pages and using the search bar, i feel bad for asking cause i know its here but could somebody please direct me to it? thank you in advance
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im pretty sure my rear wiper motor is dead but i want to test the wiring first, i know ive seen in multiple threads a link to the rear wiring diagram but now im having issues finding it, sifting through the pages and using the search bar, i feel bad for asking cause i know its here but could somebody please direct me to it? thank you in advance
There's a wiring diagram in this post that should be applicable to your 06.

Does the rear washer pump work? If it doesn't then fuse #23 might be blown. That, I believe, would disable the wiper motor as well.

The most likely wiring problem is in the harness going from the car to the hatch. In the wiring diagram, it's the wiring that goes from connector D35 to the rear wiper motor. There's only four wires in that harness related to the wiper.

The harness connectors (including D35) are in the cargo area, right side, slightly below the "D" pillar. The cargo area right side trim panel might have to be removed to gain access to the connector. (The other ends of the related wires are at connector D43 to the wiper motor.)

If you suspect the wiper motor, it can be checked at connector D43. There should be continuity between pin 2 and body ground.
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and thank you, hopefully this should do, what i was looking for was +/- wire colors
Hope you'll let us know what you find, and the fix . . .
. . . How would the motor be checked? I'm still somewhat of a newbie to auto wiring.
With the 4-wire connector D43 removed from the motor, check the resistance between pin #2 and pin #3 on the motor connector. If it's open circuit, then the motor is the problem. If it's somewhere around 5 - 20 Ohms (I'm not certain, but this is what I would expect), then I'd think the motor is okay.

Is the wiper motor currently at the "park" position, or did it stop somewhere mid-sweep? (If not known, then measure the resistance between pin #4 and pin #3 of the motor connector. If it's near zero, the motor is in the park position. See the wiring diagram.) If it's at the park position, again with the 4-wire connector removed, ignition On, and wiper control turned On, measure between the harness connector pin #2 and a good ground. Should be close to battery voltage. If there's no voltage, then there might be yet another broken wire. (Are you sure the broken wires were all reconnected correctly?)

As for the license plate lights, did you replace the bulbs?
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I guess anything is possible.

Can you describe how you tested it and concluded the motor itself is bad? This might be helpful to others reading this thread and not finding breaks in the wires in the flexible boot area?
with the car running and the switch on, using a multi-meter i put ground to black on the plug then red to the different wires, one is constant power for "ON", one is intermediate and the 4th i assume triggers the wiper with the sprayer (this one would have needed 2 people for testing) but since it doesnt work on full on or inter then can kinda guess what the last result would be. . . .
Yes, constant power at one of the wires, but I'm not sure what your measurement results were at the others.

When measuring with the negative meter test lead to the black wire, there should be constant battery voltage at the wire that's yellow with a green stripe (connector pin #1 , as long as the ignition switch is at ACC or ON. (Rear wiper switch can be Off.)

When the ignition switch is at ACC or On (engine need not be running) and the rear wiper switch at the On (continuous) there should be battery voltage at the wire that's light green (pin #2). This is critical. If there isn't battery voltage at pin #2, the motor won't run.

The voltage at the fourth wire (blue with white stripe, pin #4) isn't important until the motor starts to run, at which time it will be at battery voltage when the wiper is in its sweep, and no voltage when the wiper is down at the park position.

It's also important that the black wire (pin #3) has good continuity to the car body (ground). This should be measured using the lowest resistance range (Ohms) on the meter. The reading should ideally be zero Ohms, but might show a few tenths of an Ohm.


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Are you measuring the voltage at the wires with the connector attached, or disconnected, from the motor?

If there's no voltage at pin 2, the light green wire, then the motor won't work.

If the connector is attached to the motor, and wiper is at 10:00 o'clock, with the ignition at ACC or On, and the rear wiper switch at On (continuous) then there should be:

battery voltage at pin 2 (light green)
battery voltage at pin 1 (yellow with green stripe)
battery voltage at pin 4 (blue with white stripe)
zero voltage at pin 3 (black wire) relative to car body ground point.

Also, did you check the resistance through the motor, from pin 2 to ground?

(Added "inspection" tests of the motor -- attached)


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with the connector disconnected so i guess that means the blue wire would have no voltage
Yes. And, if disconnected, that might also mean there's no voltage coming from the BIU to pin 2, the light green wire.
. . . if i had the switch on intermediate the voltage would pulse like its intermediating?
How long was the voltage "pulse"?

Even when the wiper switch is set for intermittent operation, there has to be battery voltage on pin 2 of the motor connector (D43) for the motor to run. When working properly, that power would be on for the full time it takes the wiper to make a sweep and return to the park position.

Are you able to make resistance (Ohms) measurements with your multi-meter? Also, is it a digital multi-meter?

Are you familiar with making voltage measurements by back-probing connectors?

My summary: We know the motor doesn't run. We know there's battery voltage to pin 1 of the motor harness connector. We have not yet seen battery voltage at pin 2 of the motor with the wiper switch at On (continuous), but that could be because the measurements were made with the harness connector removed from the motor. Proper measurement might require back-probing the connector with it attached to the motor. Also, we don't know if there's continuity through the motor (pin 2 to ground), and between pins 4 and either pin 1 or pin 3. This can be resolved by resistance measurements.
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. . .the wiper motor always gets +12V when the key is on, . . ..
Not according to the wiring diagrams for both rear and front wipers. (Rear wiper wiring diagram is attached in post #21 above.)

Intermittent wipes are done by briefly grounding the ground line, for less time than it takes for a full wipe, then allowing the park mechanism to take over.
Motor ground side goes to ground, no switching of the ground line.
the ground here is screwed right in the area so im not sure that its ground switched

um lets see, id say the pulses were roughly 3-5 seconds

yes it is a digital meter with Ohms option

i have no idea what back probing is

the new motor is supposed to be here tomorrow, i have to put my exhaust back on the car on saturday, hopefully i can get to it, i do plan on just plugging in the new motor in hand to see if it works (it is claimed as working) but as i keep buying parts for this thing that i cant use or dont need we'll see how this goes lol
If you already have a replacement motor coming in, I guess that could be conclusive. But I agree about not throwing parts at it. If the motor doesn't work, let us know. We'll look at helping with back-probing the attached connector contacts with the voltmeter.
i have promptly installed the new motor lol and it works!!! my rear wiper lives! bring on the snow
Still have the old one? If so, any chance you can now measure the resistance of the motor winding? It would be between pins 2 and 3 of the connector on the motor itself. Obviously there was something wrong with the old one, but this can check if there was a problem in the motor itself (brushes or a failed winding/connection). If the motor itself seems good then the problem was in the related switching that's also part of the motor assembly. (This was the subject of the tests using back probing, but this wouldn't be necessary now with the old motor out.)
i do have the old one still, no multi-meter at home though, wouldnt it be more fun to pull the drive off and test the motor on its own? lol
Could do that as well. The resistance test is a quick, initial way to possibly identify why the motor wouldn't run which doesn't involve connecting power to it. If the resistance between pins 2 and 3 is very high, that alone is sufficient -- there's a problem in the motor itself.
Not sure, but I think probably not more than 10 Ohms. If the measurement is well over that, then the higher resistance would prevent the current flow from getting high enough to develop the torque to start the motor. (According to the FSM, it's rated at 42 Watts or less. The circuit is fused at 15 Amps.)
. . . The rear lock, wiper and sprayer are currently not working but the defrost is. . .
The rear lock and wiper not working can be explained by broken wires going to the rear hatch; however, that doesn't apply to the rear window washer. The pump for that is in the front, in the same reservoir as the front washer pump motor. There's no wires involved with the rear washer pump that go to the rear hatch. However, if neither the rear wiper nor the washer work, then there might be a blown common fuse, and that might have been caused by the wire supplying power to the rear wiper motor shorting to ground. It's fuse #23, shown on page 12-7 of the Owners Manual.

Also, a bad ground can indeed affect the functions in the hatch, because the ground wires also go through the flexible boots between the car body and hatch. There's ground wires in both the left and right side boots.

Did you check the back-up (reverse) lights, license plate lights, and the high-mount brake light, in the hatch, to see if they work?
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