06 rear wiper dead, wiring harness diagrams?

20505 Views 45 Replies 11 Participants Last post by plain OM, Feb 22, 2019

jonnylaw13

Discussion Starter · Jul 26, 2017

im pretty sure my rear wiper motor is dead but i want to test the wiring first, i know ive seen in multiple threads a link to the rear wiring diagram but now im having issues finding it, sifting through the pages and using the search bar, i feel bad for asking cause i know its here but could somebody please direct me to it? thank you in advance

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plain OM

· #21 · Sep 24, 2017

jonnylaw13 said:
with the car running and the switch on, using a multi-meter i put ground to black on the plug then red to the different wires, one is constant power for "ON", one is intermediate and the 4th i assume triggers the wiper with the sprayer (this one would have needed 2 people for testing) but since it doesnt work on full on or inter then can kinda guess what the last result would be. . . .

Yes, constant power at one of the wires, but I'm not sure what your measurement results were at the others.

When measuring with the negative meter test lead to the black wire, there should be constant battery voltage at the wire that's yellow with a green stripe (connector pin #1 , as long as the ignition switch is at ACC or ON. (Rear wiper switch can be Off.)

When the ignition switch is at ACC or On (engine need not be running) and the rear wiper switch at the On (continuous) there should be battery voltage at the wire that's light green (pin #2). This is critical. If there isn't battery voltage at pin #2, the motor won't run.

The voltage at the fourth wire (blue with white stripe, pin #4) isn't important until the motor starts to run, at which time it will be at battery voltage when the wiper is in its sweep, and no voltage when the wiper is down at the park position.

It's also important that the black wire (pin #3) has good continuity to the car body (ground). This should be measured using the lowest resistance range (Ohms) on the meter. The reading should ideally be zero Ohms, but might show a few tenths of an Ohm.

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jonnylaw13

Discussion Starter · #22 · Sep 24, 2017

plain OM said:
Yes, constant power at one of the wires, but I'm not sure what your measurement results were at the others.

When measuring with the negative meter test lead to the black wire, there should be constant battery voltage at the wire that's yellow with a green stripe (connector pin #1 , as long as the ignition switch is at ACC or ON. (Rear wiper switch can be Off.)

When the ignition switch is at ACC or On (engine need not be running) and the rear wiper switch at the On (continuous) there should be battery voltage at the wire that's light green (pin #2). This is critical. If there isn't battery voltage at pin #2, the motor won't run.

The voltage at the fourth wire (blue with white stripe, pin #4) isn't important until the motor starts to run, at which time it will be at battery voltage when the wiper is in its sweep, and no voltage when the wiper is down at the park position.

It's also important that the black wire (pin #3) has good continuity to the car body (ground). This should be measured using the lowest resistance range (Ohms) on the meter. The reading should ideally be zero Ohms, but might show a few tenths of an Ohm.

blue wire did nothing thats why i thought it was for when the sprayer was used, i had voltage on pin 2 only when the switch was set to intermediate and then just a few second pulse as it should be but nothing at full on, but the wiper isnt "home" its at say 10 o'clock. being as the ground wire worked to test the power with steady current i just assumed it was good as a bad ground would lead to lower and or unstable current, ive had a lot of stereo systems and aux lighting and just old cars, (un)fortunately troubleshooting electrical is something ive had a fair bit of practice at lol.. the diagram you have provided is the one i used somebody maybe you posted it earlier in the thread

plain OM

· #23 · Sep 24, 2017 (Edited)

Are you measuring the voltage at the wires with the connector attached, or disconnected, from the motor?

If there's no voltage at pin 2, the light green wire, then the motor won't work.

If the connector is attached to the motor, and wiper is at 10:00 o'clock, with the ignition at ACC or On, and the rear wiper switch at On (continuous) then there should be:

battery voltage at pin 2 (light green)
battery voltage at pin 1 (yellow with green stripe)
battery voltage at pin 4 (blue with white stripe)
zero voltage at pin 3 (black wire) relative to car body ground point.

Also, did you check the resistance through the motor, from pin 2 to ground?

(Added "inspection" tests of the motor -- attached)

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CNY_Dave

· #24 · Sep 25, 2017

Power to motor with no motion consistent with a bound-up (but repairable) wiper arm shaft.

jonnylaw13

Discussion Starter · #25 · Sep 26, 2017

plain OM said:
Are you measuring the voltage at the wires with the connector attached, or disconnected, from the motor?

If there's no voltage at pin 2, the light green wire, then the motor won't work.

If the connector is attached to the motor, and wiper is at 10:00 o'clock, with the ignition at ACC or On, and the rear wiper switch at On (continuous) then there should be:

battery voltage at pin 2 (light green)
battery voltage at pin 1 (yellow with green stripe)
battery voltage at pin 4 (blue with white stripe)
zero voltage at pin 3 (black wire) relative to car body ground point.

Also, did you check the resistance through the motor, from pin 2 to ground?

(Added "inspection" tests of the motor -- attached)

with the connector disconnected so i guess that means the blue wire would have no voltage

plain OM

· #26 · Sep 26, 2017

with the connector disconnected so i guess that means the blue wire would have no voltage

Yes. And, if disconnected, that might also mean there's no voltage coming from the BIU to pin 2, the light green wire.

jonnylaw13

Discussion Starter · #27 · Sep 27, 2017

plain OM said:
Yes. And, if disconnected, that might also mean there's no voltage coming from the BIU to pin 2, the light green wire.

there was voltage, if i had the switch on intermediate the voltage would pulse like its intermediating?

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plain OM

· #28 · Sep 27, 2017

jonnylaw13 said:
. . . if i had the switch on intermediate the voltage would pulse like its intermediating?

How long was the voltage "pulse"?

Even when the wiper switch is set for intermittent operation, there has to be battery voltage on pin 2 of the motor connector (D43) for the motor to run. When working properly, that power would be on for the full time it takes the wiper to make a sweep and return to the park position.

Are you able to make resistance (Ohms) measurements with your multi-meter? Also, is it a digital multi-meter?

Are you familiar with making voltage measurements by back-probing connectors?

My summary: We know the motor doesn't run. We know there's battery voltage to pin 1 of the motor harness connector. We have not yet seen battery voltage at pin 2 of the motor with the wiper switch at On (continuous), but that could be because the measurements were made with the harness connector removed from the motor. Proper measurement might require back-probing the connector with it attached to the motor. Also, we don't know if there's continuity through the motor (pin 2 to ground), and between pins 4 and either pin 1 or pin 3. This can be resolved by resistance measurements.

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CNY_Dave

· #29 · Sep 28, 2017

I think it's the same as the front wipers-
the wiper motor always gets +12V when the key is on, so they will return to the park position, and switching of the motor on and off is done by connecting the ground lead to ground (or not).

Intermittent wipes are done by briefly grounding the ground line, for less time than it takes for a full wipe, then allowing the park mechanism to take over.

plain OM

· #30 · Sep 28, 2017

CNY_Dave said:
. . .the wiper motor always gets +12V when the key is on, . . ..

Not according to the wiring diagrams for both rear and front wipers. (Rear wiper wiring diagram is attached in post #21 above.)

Intermittent wipes are done by briefly grounding the ground line, for less time than it takes for a full wipe, then allowing the park mechanism to take over.

Motor ground side goes to ground, no switching of the ground line.

jonnylaw13

Discussion Starter · #31 · Sep 28, 2017

CNY_Dave said:
I think it's the same as the front wipers-
the wiper motor always gets +12V when the key is on, so they will return to the park position, and switching of the motor on and off is done by connecting the ground lead to ground (or not).

Intermittent wipes are done by briefly grounding the ground line, for less time than it takes for a full wipe, then allowing the park mechanism to take over.

the ground here is screwed right in the area so im not sure that its ground switched

plain OM said:
How long was the voltage "pulse"?

Even when the wiper switch is set for intermittent operation, there has to be battery voltage on pin 2 of the motor connector (D43) for the motor to run. When working properly, that power would be on for the full time it takes the wiper to make a sweep and return to the park position.

Are you able to make resistance (Ohms) measurements with your multi-meter? Also, is it a digital multi-meter?

Are you familiar with making voltage measurements by back-probing connectors?

My summary: We know the motor doesn't run. We know there's battery voltage to pin 1 of the motor harness connector. We have not yet seen battery voltage at pin 2 of the motor with the wiper switch at On (continuous), but that could be because the measurements were made with the harness connector removed from the motor. Proper measurement might require back-probing the connector with it attached to the motor. Also, we don't know if there's continuity through the motor (pin 2 to ground), and between pins 4 and either pin 1 or pin 3. This can be resolved by resistance measurements.

um lets see, id say the pulses were roughly 3-5 seconds

yes it is a digital meter with Ohms option

i have no idea what back probing is

the new motor is supposed to be here tomorrow, i have to put my exhaust back on the car on saturday, hopefully i can get to it, i do plan on just plugging in the new motor in hand to see if it works (it is claimed as working) but as i keep buying parts for this thing that i cant use or dont need we'll see how this goes lol

CNY_Dave

· #32 · Sep 29, 2017

I'm probably thinking a bit too old-school, back in the day of vacuum-tube intermittent wipers... but the park mechanism is in the wiper motor, so the pulse will definitely be less than a cycle.

plain OM

· #33 · Sep 29, 2017

jonnylaw13 said:
the ground here is screwed right in the area so im not sure that its ground switched

um lets see, id say the pulses were roughly 3-5 seconds

yes it is a digital meter with Ohms option

i have no idea what back probing is

the new motor is supposed to be here tomorrow, i have to put my exhaust back on the car on saturday, hopefully i can get to it, i do plan on just plugging in the new motor in hand to see if it works (it is claimed as working) but as i keep buying parts for this thing that i cant use or dont need we'll see how this goes lol

If you already have a replacement motor coming in, I guess that could be conclusive. But I agree about not throwing parts at it. If the motor doesn't work, let us know. We'll look at helping with back-probing the attached connector contacts with the voltmeter.

jonnylaw13

Discussion Starter · #34 · Sep 29, 2017

plain OM said:
If you already have a replacement motor coming in, I guess that could be conclusive. But I agree about not throwing parts at it. If the motor doesn't work, let us know. We'll look at helping with back-probing the attached connector contacts with the voltmeter.

only going to throw 1 part at it lol

jonnylaw13

Discussion Starter · #35 · Oct 20, 2017

plain OM said:
If you already have a replacement motor coming in, I guess that could be conclusive. But I agree about not throwing parts at it. If the motor doesn't work, let us know. We'll look at helping with back-probing the attached connector contacts with the voltmeter.

i have promptly installed the new motor lol and it works!!! my rear wiper lives! bring on the snow

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plain OM

· #36 · Oct 21, 2017

jonnylaw13 said:
i have promptly installed the new motor lol and it works!!! my rear wiper lives! bring on the snow

Still have the old one? If so, any chance you can now measure the resistance of the motor winding? It would be between pins 2 and 3 of the connector on the motor itself. Obviously there was something wrong with the old one, but this can check if there was a problem in the motor itself (brushes or a failed winding/connection). If the motor itself seems good then the problem was in the related switching that's also part of the motor assembly. (This was the subject of the tests using back probing, but this wouldn't be necessary now with the old motor out.)

jonnylaw13

Discussion Starter · #37 · Oct 21, 2017

plain OM said:
Still have the old one? If so, any chance you can now measure the resistance of the motor winding? It would be between pins 2 and 3 of the connector on the motor itself. Obviously there was something wrong with the old one, but this can check if there was a problem in the motor itself (brushes or a failed winding/connection). If the motor itself seems good then the problem was in the related switching that's also part of the motor assembly. (This was the subject of the tests using back probing, but this wouldn't be necessary now with the old motor out.)

i do have the old one still, no multi-meter at home though, wouldnt it be more fun to pull the drive off and test the motor on its own? lol

plain OM

· #38 · Oct 21, 2017

jonnylaw13 said:
i do have the old one still, no multi-meter at home though, wouldnt it be more fun to pull the drive off and test the motor on its own? lol

Could do that as well. The resistance test is a quick, initial way to possibly identify why the motor wouldn't run which doesn't involve connecting power to it. If the resistance between pins 2 and 3 is very high, that alone is sufficient -- there's a problem in the motor itself.

jonnylaw13

Discussion Starter · #39 · Oct 21, 2017

plain OM said:
Could do that as well. The resistance test is a quick, initial way to possibly identify why the motor wouldn't run which doesn't involve connecting power to it. If the resistance between pins 2 and 3 is very high, that alone is sufficient -- there's a problem in the motor itself.

how many ohms are we talking here? 10? 20? 100?

plain OM

· #40 · Oct 21, 2017

Not sure, but I think probably not more than 10 Ohms. If the measurement is well over that, then the higher resistance would prevent the current flow from getting high enough to develop the torque to start the motor. (According to the FSM, it's rated at 42 Watts or less. The circuit is fused at 15 Amps.)

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