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I have an 08 Outback. Twice now within the last four years I have had trouble with the window control panel on the drivers side door. The switch worked to unlock the other doors in the vehicle, however it would not work to raise or lower the windows. The first time I ordered a new switch unit. After installing it, it appeared to fix the problem (There were intermittent times when the problem re-occurred, but the disappeared almost immediately when we opened and shut the car door.) But it wasn't long before the controller switches failed to open and close the windows once again.
When I took the time to thoroughly test the switch units, I discovered that both witch units I had were perfectly FINE. It turns out that the problem is a poor Ground connection between the drivers door, and the vehicle chassis. Using a OHM Meter, I discovered that the resistance between the Drivers door and the chassis was a few hundred ohms (Thats BAD) By connecting an alligator clipped wire between the door and the chassis, then testing with the OHM Meter, the resistance was down to around 4 ohms (Much better) and with the wire connecting the door to the chassis, the windows opened and closed just fine. Now for my dilemma; I want to bring the new ground wire through the side wall where all the other wires from the door enter the vehicle. (I can do that, but the area around where the wire bundle enter the vehicle chassis does not have a single contact that allows me to connect the new ground wire to the the chassis ground. (I am not a contortionist, that can fit under the dash to search out every contact to connect the ground wire from the door.
Has anyone been successful pulling another wire up through the firewall to the fuse box in the engine compartment? If so I would like to hear how they accomplished that. (For those of you confused as to why the door lock switch worked while the window controller din not work, I think it might have something to do with the locks being a solenoid while the windows are moved by a motor. if there is even a poor ground a solenoid will still work while a DC Motor relies on the flow of current running through the complete circuit. If there is a poor ground the current will fail to provide enough push to keep the motor running.) So if anyone knows where a convenient connection to the vehicle chassis is located near the drivers side kick panel, or has successfully run an additional wire through the wire bundle going trough the firewall, Please let me know.
 

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Based on the wiring diagrams, the negative/ground side of the power window system does not depend on the continuity between the door itself and the rest of the car body. Instead, there's a wire that goes from the switch, through the flexible boot, to a connector in the kick panel area. There it links up with another wire that goes to a body ground. Consequently, adding a separate door to car body wire shouldn't affect the window operation. (I must admit, however, that I'm puzzled by the report that adding the wire made a difference.)

Looking at the first page of the wiring diagram (attached), the negative return wire (black) goes from terminal #7 of the master switch connector to pin 2 of connector D83, which is in the kick panel area. There it connects to i76, and continues on to the ground lug. Perhaps check that wire, from the switch to D83, and from there to body ground.

Incidentally, are you sure that the passenger window lock-out switch is not activated? This switch, on the driver door master panel, disables the window controls for the other three doors. It does this by, interestingly, disconnecting the ground return wires for the other three doors from the ground at master switch terminal #7. The switch is shown as the Power Window Lock Switch on the first page.
 

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