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Total destruction of belt. Can’t say I can pinpoint cause just belt failure about 10k away from its lifespan which I suppose is about normal.
 

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2008 Outback Wagon LL Bean Limited 2.5i
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View attachment 488926

Total destruction of belt. Can’t say I can pinpoint cause just belt failure about 10k away from its lifespan which I suppose is about normal.
Holy crap, makes me wonder what shredded the belt too. Looks like one of the bearings seized?

Do you know which kit was used when the timing belt job was done ?


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All the bearings and water pump spin just fine. Think it was just a crappy belt. I literally ordered all the parts just 2 days ago to start this job next week, I can’t believe the odds of this happening right now.
 

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All the bearings and water pump spin just fine. Think it was just a crappy belt. I literally ordered all the parts just 2 days ago to start this job next week, I can’t believe the odds of this happening right now.
I am cant believe how chewed up it got. Like it got shaved.


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I am cant believe how chewed up it got. Like it got shaved.
Probably from being flapped around at 3000 RPM. The deposits on the idler pulley next to the tensioner looks like maybe it was picking up rubber. It may have come from bearing failure although you said all the pulleys spun freely. I also made the mistake of buying an AC Delco kit from Amazon in May of 2016 @ 108k miles. Only 65k miles later, by May of 2020, the pump started leaking a slow drip. I replaced the TB/WP/Pulleys with an Asin kit with the Mitsuboshi belt and Asin pump. Problem solved and hopefully it will be good for another 90-100k miles.
 

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1595477702319.png
Total destruction of belt. Can’t say I can pinpoint cause just belt failure about 10k away from its lifespan which I suppose is about normal.
Admittedly it was the gates kit I used at 90k.
All the bearings and water pump spin just fine. Think it was just a crappy belt.
Years from now, when there are far fewer EJ25 engines still in service, someone somewhere will still ask us the question "can I save some money and not pay top dollar for OEM or Aisin TB kits?".

And we will point them to this photo and your statements of admission. This thread will become our Forum's poster child for clearly saying, with absolutely no other words needed, "stay far, far away from cheap Chinese TB kits".

And thus your loss will not have been in vain.

You deserve an upturn in your fortunes; best of luck on the repairs.
 

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Years from now, when there are far fewer EJ25 engines still in service, someone somewhere will still ask us the question "can I save some money and not pay top dollar for OEM or Aisin TB kits?".

And we will point them to this photo and your statements of admission. This thread will become our Forum's poster child for clearly saying, with absolutely no other words needed, "stay far, far away from cheap Chinese TB kits".

And thus your loss will not have been in vain.

You deserve an upturn in your fortunes; best of luck on the repairs.
Same thing happened on @cthies when using a gates kit?


Need Help - On the side of Hwy broke down P0340



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I had a similar story, tho not at highway speeds. I got away with 2 bent exhaust valves. I lapped in the two new valves, did a standard headgasket replacement job and was good to go.

other folks have not been so fortunate...
 

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My condolences. Double tough considering you were on the verge of ordering parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
489096

489097
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Well got to the left side tonight, all four exhaust valves bent, not much hope for the right. Gasket looks pretty good for 172k. Looks like it’s running rich or oils getting past the rings. I am consuming about a qt every 1000 miles is this something I could look into while the engines out? Going to do the right side tomorrow.
 

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Looks like it’s running rich or oils getting past the rings. I am consuming about a qt every 1000 miles is this something I could look into while the engines out?
I don't know, do you really want to get into the bottom end on an engine with 172k on it?

Do realize that with new head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube seals, cams end gaskets, etc. you'll invarably tighten things up a bit and reduce consumption a little. How much remains to be seen.

My 2008 2.5i NA at 145k miles uses maybe a quart in 4,000 miles, but it's not evenly using it across the oil change interval - it's more like none the first 2k, then the one quart over the last 2k before I change it. I've decided I'll live with it, and by the time I reach 172k, it may well be consuming oil at your rate.

Good photo documentary you've offered here, BTW.

Not a smoking gun by any means but a lot of seepage around hydraulic tensioner.
I'd say it's likely your smoking gun. How does the backpressure on it feel?

And inquiring minds would like to see which manufacturer's mark is on that thing, can you see any?
 

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View attachment 489096
View attachment 489097 View attachment 489098 View attachment 489099
Well got to the left side tonight, all four exhaust valves bent, not much hope for the right. Gasket looks pretty good for 172k. Looks like it’s running rich or oils getting past the rings. I am consuming about a qt every 1000 miles is this something I could look into while the engines out? Going to do the right side tomorrow.
Yes, thanks for sharing pics of the tear down.


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And inquiring minds would like to see which manufacturer's mark is on that thing, can you see any?
Just for reference, I have A/B pictures of the parts from a 2016 TB replacement parts from an AC Delco Kit with the Gates water pump and timing belt vs. the 2020 TB replacement parts from the Asin kit with the Mitstuboshi belt in this post:

The tensioner from the AC Delco kit was made in Japan and looked identical to the new Asin part. When I replaced the original Subaru tensioner in 2016, the piston was also leaking a little oil and one of the idlers was making a scraping noise. The original belt looked good with the exception of one tooth missing on the belt.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
No country of origin stamp on tensioner but has jap bearings, and still got some good amount of force to it at least not enough to move it by hand but that’s about all the effort I put into it.
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All four valves bent in cylinder 1, intakes bent in cylinder 3. Grand total of 10 bent valves for those of you counting at home.
 

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Going off price and further inspection I'm just going to go with all new valve seals and new valves to replace broken ones, no piston rings. Also for-going new 02 sensors for about 120 a piece. Things are starting to add up. Plus I have to now replace the blown out timing belt cover and to make matters worse my kid dropped the harmonic crankshaft pulley chipping off a piece, used on ebay for $30 bucks but still. Valve seats look good, I'll just lap all the valves while they're all out, leak down test showed a little seepage even for the good valves. Hopefully thats its. Any other recommendations?
 

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Going off price and further inspection I'm just going to go with all new valve seals and new valves to replace broken ones, no piston rings. Also for-going new 02 sensors for about 120 a piece. Things are starting to add up. Plus I have to now replace the blown out timing belt cover and to make matters worse my kid dropped the harmonic crankshaft pulley chipping off a piece, used on ebay for $30 bucks but still. Valve seats look good, I'll just lap all the valves while they're all out, leak down test showed a little seepage even for the good valves. Hopefully thats its. Any other recommendations?
@cardoc


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