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Discussion Starter #2
Looks like I will have to answer this myself.....there is a round blanking piece in the left rear corner of the back, under a cover, which looks right for a 12V socket. Now have to work out how to get behind it and see if the wiring is there already. Bit disappointed that the front socket is vertical, so its easy for debris to fall in and short it.
Looks like you cant get side or headlights without ignition on - sound right? Just the extra switch on top of the steering housing for sidelights. What if you need light to light up an accident scene? You got to leave it running (or at least turned on), ripe to be stolen while you are doing good deeds?
Anybody have any trouble with battery capacity? It looks pretty small to me, even for a 2.5. Same size used in the H6?
jp 05 OBW 5 speed
 

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Tokyo's between my toes
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My 98 has a socket in the cargo area, though I'm disappointed that it's only hot with the key in the accessories or ignition-on position (same with the front socket).

There is a mod for hot-wiring it, and "One Fine Day" I will do that.

I don't know if your 05 will have the wiring waiting for you back there, I hope so. Strange they would not provide one, what would that add to the cost of the car?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Lizard,
Down here in Oz, they want A$93 to add the rear socket.....I prefer to use heavy duty type sockets and plugs, rather than cigarette lighter rubbing contact positives, so I will do it my way for a lot less. Where can i find the mod for hot sockets up front please?
jp 05 OBW 5 speed
 

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jp--

i suspect you will find that the wiring is there. it's more economical for mfgrs to just make up a single wiring harness for all trim levels and options than to do a separate one for each.

might not be too hard to hook it up to the wiring for the rear dome light, as that has power at all times. this would limit the amperage you could run via the outlet, tho, as i'm sure wires to light are pretty small gauge. i have theory that mfgrs use smallest wire they can get away with for mfg cost and weight/CAFE concerns. it should be sufficient to run a small light, esp if LED, tho. i guess you could set up with a switch to go back and forth between low-amp always-on power and higher-amp switched power.

on the battery, look at other threads on Optima batteries. all the oomph you'll need to start an H6 and then some.
 

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Tokyo's between my toes
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It was on scoobymods, I think Peaty can point you to it. Because the front seat heaters are on the same circuit, it carries the risk of you being able to leave the heaters on with the car unattended - no risk for me as I do not have that option.

cptoversteer said:
jp--

i have theory that mfgrs use smallest wire they can get away with for mfg cost and weight/CAFE concerns.
At the auto show my engineer friend said, remember how the 42-volt standard for cars just faded away? Seems the idea was, raise the voltage and reduce the current, thus allowing thinner wiring.
 

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exactly. last i heard, BMW was looking at going to 48 volt systems, as this would cut the current flow to 25% of what it wd be at 12V. "iDrive", but not with a low battery.....

and i can only imagine the way you'd "arc weld" at 48 volts if you didn't disconnect the neg cable 1st and hit a hot terminal with a wrench....
 

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Tokyo's between my toes
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Meanwhile we see more LEDs and fiber optics to do the job of wires and bulbs.

Yeah, the cars we have now will seem so out of date someday because they used friction brakes and glowing wire filaments.

But then, we will be out of date too, so we can be boring old farts talking about the old days, before your vehicle's location was loaded real-time into the national security database.

(edited to add) wait, cpt and I already are boring old farts.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
MMMmmmmmm 48V DC is what telephone exchanges world wide run on, with 1000s of A available - the bus bars are a sight to see!
I suspect with 48V DC available there might be some current limiters or breakers used instead of fuses to prevent major disasters here. Isnt there a common separate signal bus in the design to tell items when they should turn on?
Anyway, I was pointing out that the battery capacity in terms of AH looks supect to me, not the CCA for starting purposes so much. On my 2.5 there is room for a bigger unit on the base plate, so when it needs one, its going as big as will fit in there! The Porsche 928 has an 88ah as long as your arm in it, and thats the way I like it.
jp 05 OBW 5 speed 2.5
 

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jp--

yeah, i agree. my Mazda pickup got a batt sized for a 460cid Lincoln. but the optimas offer oomph of a much physically larger battery, albeit for 1.5-2x cost of "conventional" battery.

and, esp for a car like a 20+ yr old 928, i like idea of no sulfuric acid frutz....did you see thread where one of our folk who used to work at batt distrib mentioned watching a forklift skewer an Optima and NO leakage of electrolyte? and they used the battery afterwards, with just a silicone goop patch?!

doncha just love the 928? nobody appreciated at time, but it is one car from late 70s that is impossible to date from its styling....it still looks modern. look how Neons and Imprezas aped the headlight look...:D :D and i'm sure you enjoyed the irony in Chevy's flapping abt their major technological advance in putting the C5 Vette tranny at rear in a transaxle......:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
tHE BEST BIT ABOUT 928s is the fact that they got the alloy block without liners thing to work - some parts of the cars may f*ck out, but that part of the engine never wears out! The same Reynolds 390 alloy that GM tried on something and gave up in the end. You do have to be a bit paranoid about using the right coolant, and changing it, but it aint that hard. Mine looks new inside the water galleries, which is good for 22 yrs old.
When the time comes, I will see if I can find Optima down here...

jp 05 OBW 5 speed, 2.5
 

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same Reynolds 390 alloy that GM tried on something and gave up in the end
yeah, the VEGA, which you Ozzies may have mercifully been spared. they killed the engine after a few years and offered same car with old Pontiac 2.5 "iron duke" (never saw the nobility there...) until abt 1980.

now the linerless silicon crystal-hardened bore casting process is used by everyone from BMW (allthe 4.0 and 4.4 V8s), Benz (most of the moderns V8s and 12s, and likely many of the 6s, Porsche, i think even the modern alum SBC motors in vettes etc, etc etc. ironically, Sub still uses iron liners in their alloy blocks.

the coolant regimen is good practice for same issue on a Sub....
 

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jp928 said:
Has anybody added their own 12V socket please? Where, how connected, fused? Dont want to pay what dealer wants for this detail....
TIA
jp 05 OB 5speed
I too took the cover off our MY04 3.0R yesterday to see how easy it is to buy and fit the rear outlet my self,I got as far as the cover plate when unloading the car and never got back there to pull the cover plate off.We need it for warming the babies bottle and food ,Im sure it will cope OK,I just hope as some of you guys have said that you dont need the ignition on to use it.It is $44.xx over the counter or $94.xx fitted according to the subaru web site.Let me know how you get on........
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I pulled the blanking plate off the socket hole, no wiring visible. I pulled thefloor cover up next to it, and the insulating plastic off the floor, and could get my hand a little up behind the corner cover, but still no wires visible. I suspect I am going to have to pull the bottom tie down off and peek behind the cover - I think this is where you go the get behind the taillight asembly? The wiring is probably part of that bundle, and tied to it...here's hoping. Isnt there a post re doing new taillight bulbs that talks about this area? I will see if I can find it again.
jp 05 OBW 5spd 2.5
 
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