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Discussion Starter #1
From what I've heard this is supposed to be an "ideal" swap. I'm swapping the EJ25D out of a 1996 outback and putting in an EJ22 from a 1995 Impreza. Both cars are auto trans.

What should I do to the EJ22 before putting it in? Should I get any gaskets, seals, Timing parts, oil pump etc. done to prepare it for the swap?

Is there anything else I should know before getting my hands dirty? Really I'm just making sure I'm fully prepared and that this is going to go smoothly.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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96 Legacy OBW, EJ22 swap, 2" suspension lift, 215/75r15, HIDs, 06 WRX interior swap
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i did the same but it was from a 95 legacy. should be exactly the same engine.

flex plates will need swapped as our OB trans have a bigger torque convertor. it looks like its close to edge of bell housing but fits together perfectly. as far as your accys go they all bolt up with the same brackets and bolts off the 2.5

other then that its just as easy as pulling the engine out and putting the new one in. from start to finish it took me 6 hours (engine was resealed the day before, IMO thats the most time consuming part) but that was at my shop with a lift, air tools, etc. my point is its a piece of cake!

ive heard the intake can swap but i got a complete engine from a yard and decided to go with the 2.2L intake but swapped mt throttle body cause mine was freshly cleaned and not rusty. haha.

i did a full tear down and did headgaskets and re sealed all the other common leak points. new t-belt and tensioner and all. just because you have the 2.2L sitting on an engine stand so why not!? now i have been worry free for the last 15 months and 30k miles and expect many many many more to come.

i also did a top end clean and motorcraft fuel injector service just cause i wasnt sure how long that engine sat or how well it was maintained.

on first startup you want to hold the engine at 1500-2000 for at least 15mins. you may have a noisy stuck lifter like i did but itll free up. the purpose there is to make sure oil pressure is high so all the bearings will be lubed quickly and not burn up.

feel free to PM me with any other questions. good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What seals would you consider the most important ones to change? I don't think I have enough experience to perform a full tear-down, so which would you recommend that I concentrate on?
 

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96 Legacy OBW, EJ22 swap, 2" suspension lift, 215/75r15, HIDs, 06 WRX interior swap
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valve covers and oil pan are common leakers. cams and crank seals assuming you'll at least do a fresh timing belt. Though you could run it til it breaks if you REALLY didn't have the funds for it. All it will do is cause an inconvenience and possibly a tow bill.

I noticed both my cam plug on the back of the left head and that plate in the same place on the right both leaked. I cleaned and dried the left plug and used right stuff silicone from te outside and just smeared it all over nicely and it stopped. To replace it you have to take the cam out which I realized after the engine was installed.

Then the plate on the right I did the same thing but around where the o ring is. Proper fix would be to replace the I o ring but it stopped leaking as well so good enough for me!

Unless the engine has been overheated from what I've read you should feel ok about running it without doing HGs
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update:

The original engine is out. Everything is labeled, and ready for the re-installation. Right now we're in the process of resealing the engine, and swapping the alternator and the a/c compressor. Unfortunately, my dad and I de-pressurized the air conditioner system instead of just unbolting it and pulling the whole thing to the side, so we will have to deal with the r134 system later. We are doing the timing belt, and are currently waiting on the tool to remove the harmonic balancer, so we can get the plastic timing belt cover off. Once we are done with this stuff, the next step will be to switch the flex plate and torque it down to spec. The question I have at this point is whether the torque converter should be stuck back into the transmission and bolted to the flex plate before or after the engine is dropped back in?
 

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96 Legacy OBW, EJ22 swap, 2" suspension lift, 215/75r15, HIDs, 06 WRX interior swap
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leave the torque converter in the tranny!!! its best to not remove it because the seal can get ruined and it will puke tranny fluid. but just put it back in straight and make sure it drops all the way in. the engine wont mate as well. theres an access hole for the bolts.

i tend to put the long block in without the accessories...? makes it a ton easier to put the intake back on and the accessories last.

sorry for the delayed response! hope it went well.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Engine is in, hooked up, it turns over, starts, but does not sound too good. It's running really rough for some reason. I didn't try to drive it, but I did put it in reverse with the brake on, and it seemed good. We did change the timing belt, tensioner, and the three pulleys. also the water pump. The check engine light came on once the engine warmed up, after blinking about 8 times or so. Attached is a video showing the sounds the engine is making from the interior, the bay, and from behind (exhaust). As always, thanks for the help!

Subaru Legacy engine issue - YouTube
 

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01 Outback H6 VDC, 97 GT wgn w/ ej22, 98 OBW w/ej22
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recheck the timing.

this is the leading cause of issues after major engine work.
if the belt is off by a tooth or two it will run like crap.

check for an open vac hose under the intake plenum.
the large one, about 1'' inch in diameter, that goes to the IAC on the passenger side intake manifold.

re-check all the wire connectors.
 
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