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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Engine random cuts out while driving and sometimes stalls at stop signs and lacks power at times. originaly thought problem was fuel related, no longer do. I am stumped on what to do next?

what should fuel presure be on this? Mine varies from 22 to over 30 while running depending on throttle opening.

I pulled pressure reg vacume line and pressure spiked to 40psi. I pinched fuel return line got over 60psi. From the genaric service manual i looked at this is all with in spec?

the Fuel pressure stays constant while engine problems happen. I replaced fuel filter, checked fuel pressure and fuel regulator both are in spec.

I took car to parts store for quick code check they found two err codes p0440 evaporative emmission control system malfuntion and p0325 knock sensor 1 malfuntion any ideas on what the problem maybe? I don't know what do do next?

I cant belive the p0325 knock sensor err would cause the extreme eratic engine running and stalling.

the p440 err lists almost every engine system sensor or controler in the possiable causes?
Darrel
 

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P0440. generally a hole in the filler pipe. Do you smell gas? Or sometimes a loose filler cap. Remove and retighten. Then... other possibilities.
P0325 Knock sensor can affect timing. Make sure it is not cracked. Watch the installation angle, so you can put itback in the same orientation.
Here is link to fsm:www.main.experiencetherave.com - /subaru_manual_scans/
Use the 97 Legacy. The same engines are covered, and the diagnostics are the same.
Go to the diagnostic section, then diagnostics with troubleshooting. Will help you track your problems down.

O.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
should the fuel pressure be consant or vary with throttle opening and load? what are fuel pressures normally to be at on this?
Darrel
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
still looking for fuel pressure specs and exactly how to test fuel pump and pressure regulator and what the pressures should be.
thanks
Darrel
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i replaced knock sensor today it was cracked. I started it up and it ran rough and was cutting out and stalled. when i tried to restart it it would just crank over and could smell raw fuel coming out of exhaust pipe. after 3 or 4 long starter runs it started to skip, then it 100% started and ran like nothing happend? I had constant fuel pressure while this was all going on also. I thinking maybe the ignition is cutting out? any ideas?

I have get codes rechecked tomarrow and see any new problems showed up?
 

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OOps!
Was not subscribed, so didn't see the followup.
Fuel pressures you state are withing range. There are times it will spike higher, but stated is normal.
Waiting to see what new codes you may have.

O.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I had codes cleared. It ran ok and had a slight hint of wanting to cut out still. but check engine light stayed off. I drove it for about an hour last night.
How ever today it acted up again and cut out very hard and stalled at stop signs. It did this for about 15 min constant and finally the check engine light came on. After about 20 mins it started to run fairly normal agian with light random cut outs.
Have not had codes checked yet tonight.
I could reproduce cut out feeling by turning off key while driving then turn it back on. It is a manual trans. I am very sure if it was an automatic it would stall out while driving due to the trans won't keep engine spining during the cut outs?
ANY IDEA ON WHAT IS WRONG WITH THIS DAM THING!!!!
 

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Need codes. Starts up ok cold?
Gets problematic after it warms up?
Egr codes are a pain.
Startr with making sure your pcv valve is working properly.
Then checking all lines that go to the EGR (hard and soft).
Bottom of BPT(Back Pressure transducer).
Then, we'll go from there.

O.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I am waiting for good weather to get codes check don't want to make parts store guy stand in the rain. When it cuts out it must be cuttting out on all cylinders. It feels the exact same when i turn the key off while driving for 3 sec then turn it back on. i will post the code i get them
 

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Here's your list and don't hate me for simplicity. In situations that you describe, this is where you start.

Check the battery and grounds. And check the amperage output of the battery with the engine off. OFF. Clean any loose or rusted grounds especially the set on the intake manifold and the ground cable from the battery to block.

Check the alternator output idling and under load.

Check for vacuum leaks.

Let us know what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
got alarms checked the only one left that still comes up is the p0440 evaporative emmission control system malfuntion.

I took it to a real mechanic. they reset the check engine light. the only code they found was the p0440. they said this will not cause the erractic running of the car and ithe car will not generate any other codes no mater how bad the car acts up. Even when it happends to stumbles at idle there computer sees nothing wrong? They have no idea what is wrong with it. They are NOT a Subaru dealer, does this matter far as dianostics computers go?
Do i need to go to a real subaru dealer that has a "subaru" dianostics computer that 100% moniters the complete engine operations to see what is going on?
Darrel
 

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Here's your list and don't hate me for simplicity. In situations that you describe, this is where you start.

Check the battery and grounds. And check the amperage output of the battery with the engine off. OFF. Clean any loose or rusted grounds especially the set on the intake manifold and the ground cable from the battery to block.

Check the alternator output idling and under load.

Check for vacuum leaks.

Let us know what you find.
^ Do this.

Follow previous link for fsm and go to the diagnostics section.
Will show you how to correct the 440.
Check the wiring by the canister. It fails by rust and corrosion.

Do all of the above before you go to dealer.

O.
 

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i've heard of bad pcv valves throwing knock sensor codes P0325 by allowing the engine to suck oil and lowering the octane rating causing knock.
 
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