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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1999 Subaru Impreza outback sport and the the power door locks stoped working. None of the switches work and none of the doors power lock. The window controls still work and I don’t believe the switches are bad. Before they completely stopped working it started to make a struggling sound when I would lock them and it was weaker I had to manually lock the drivers the rest of the way but the others would lock. I thought it was because I had a bad battery so I wasn’t worried about the locks (my battery at the time was really spotty and didn’t push a lot of voltage). Then they just stopped working all together one day. I’ve checked the fuse and it’s not blown. The internet is pointing to a wiring issue but there’s no information online where I should start poking and prodding with the volt meter. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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A weak battery and/or poor battery connections might be causing the lock system to fail if it can't get enough current to operate.

Attached is the door look wiring diagram, and a diagram of the wiring harness with an approximate location of the Door Lock Timer at connector B92. The Timer sends a two-second pulse of electricity to the door lock actuator motors.

For starters,

Are you sure there's voltage on both sides of the fuse, #5, 15 Amps, in the engine area fuse box?

If there is, then next might be to find the Door Lock Timer, and make sure there's full voltage supply at pin 2 of its connector B92. Also check that pin 6, the ground pin, has good continuity to the car body (ground).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A weak battery and/or poor battery connections might be causing the lock system to fail if it can't get enough current to operate.

Attached is the door look wiring diagram, and a diagram of the wiring harness with an approximate location of the Door Lock Timer at connector B92. The Timer sends a two-second pulse of electricity to the door lock actuator motors.

For starters,

Are you sure there's voltage on both sides of the fuse, #5, 15 Amps, in the engine area fuse box?

If there is, then next might be to find the Door Lock Timer, and make sure there's full voltage supply at pin 2 of its connector B92. Also check that pin 6, the ground pin, has good continuity to the car body (ground).
Thank you for your speedy response! That diagram is super helpful and something I would t have been able to find myself. I did what you suggested and I found that fuse # had voltage (12) on both sides. I continued to dig into my dash and found the door lock timer module. I removed the connector and checked both pins 2 and 6. Pin 6 did have continuity to the car body. When I checked pin 2 however I got no voltage. I put the positive probe in pin 2 and touched the negative probe to the negative battery terminal, car body under dash, ground wire in engine bay, and engine block and got 0 voltage. I was set on dc 20v assuming that it was supposed to get 12v. I tried this also with the ignition turned on accessory and once wile actuating the door lock switch. If this is the problem what should I do next?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for your speedy response! That diagram is super helpful and something I would t have been able to find myself. I did what you suggested and I found that fuse # had voltage (12) on both sides. I continued to dig into my dash and found the door lock timer module. I removed the connector and checked both pins 2 and 6. Pin 6 did have continuity to the car body. When I checked pin 2 however I got no voltage. I put the positive probe in pin 2 and touched the negative probe to the negative battery terminal, car body under dash, ground wire in engine bay, and engine block and got 0 voltage. I was set on dc 20v assuming that it was supposed to get 12v. I tried this also with the ignition turned on accessory and once wile actuating the door lock switch. If this is the problem what should I do next?
I’ve been trying to locate f46 and b108 to check the voltages etc to narrow my search area. and have not been able to. I’m wondering if there is a picture of either one of them or a picture of their location I downloaded the full wiring diagram but it doesn’t tell me a whole lot about how to find them.
 

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Nothing at pin 2 of B92, the pin with the white-with-black-stripe wire?

As there's access to the fuse and to pin 2 of B92, you could start by checking the continuity between the fuse and the connector. If you pull the fuse out, one of the terminals in the fuse box will have 12 V (all the time); the other should have zero volts. Identify the latter, zero volt terminal. Then, if you can set up your multimeter to reach between that terminal and pin 2 (BW wire) of connector B92, check the continuity between them. Should be zero Ohms on the meter's lowest resistance range. If it's open circuit, that confirms a break in the wiring, and at least we know what you're looking for.

B108 is shown (in an oval) in the harness diagram (page 3) at 5:00 o'clock from the "B" in the left column. It's under the dash, near the driver door front pillar. It connects to the Front Wiring Harness which goes to the engine compartment fuse box (among other destinations).

B108 is also listed in the table of page 2. It shows that B108 has 8 wire positions, is found in area (square) B 1 on page 3, and connects to front wiring harness connector F46.

The shape of B108 is shown in the diagrams at the bottom of page 1 of the attachment above.

Subaru runs that front harness out through the pillar area (through a rubber grommet) into the left front fender. It goes forward from there, and comes into the fuse box area through an opening in the inner fender. Where comes through the pillar the harness is looped down, and in some cases I've seen, the wires are unwrapped. There's been cases where a wire, or more, has frayed and failed in that area. The continuity test will indicate if this is something to look for, and certainly at that time, finding the F46/B108 pair would help narrow down where the open circuit is located.

516691
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No voltage at black and white at b92. I did find b108 and f46. From b92 to the b108 I have continuity. Additionally I checked if f46 was getting voltage (I’m assuming still that the power door locks are always hot like the cigarette lighter as you can use them without the car on) and was expecting 12 volts but there was nothing. I removed the fender and found that harness sadly it’s enclosed. I started removing the fuse box and saw that you replied. I’ll try to see if there is continuity between b92 and fuse box like you suggested. Then I’ll test the fuse box and f46 if it will reach.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I found no continuity between b92 and the fuse box. And if I found it between b92 and b108 and f46 runs from the cab to the fuse box the problem must be in this harness right? If that’s our conclusion what should my next move be? Cut the harness open search for a Frey in that wire somewhere. And if that’s it how would I go about that in the most efficient manner?
 

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I would double-check the continuity measurement between the fuse contact in the fuse box and connector F46 pin 1, which should be the white-with-black-stripe wire all the way. (When doing the resistance measurements, best to disconnect the battery so that there's no power at the fuse box.)

Rather than starting by cutting the harness open, I'd keep the meter leads connected to the fuse box and connector F46 pin 1, and then flex the harness manually to see if at some point the continuity is restored, at least for a moment. Some meters have a continuity range that provides an audio signal when there's continuity. Use this if your's has it. This way, it's not necessary to watch the meter all the time, and the sound will be apparent even if, while flexing the harness, the continuity appears only for a moment. That might better locate the problem area.

Also, the wiring coming forward from F46 pin 1 ends at another connector plugged into the bottom of the fuse box. It looks as if it's connector F68 (see diagram in post #11 above), and has the white-with-black-stripe wire at pin 1. (F68 is a is a square, four-wire, connector.) This provides another point to check continuity to F46 pin 1 under the dash.

It could just be a bad connection between F68 pin 1 and the fuse box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I unplugged f68 from the fuse box and plugged my volt meter into it and b92 because I know b92 and b108 have good continuity and my volt meter wouldn't reach f46 alone. There was no continuity between f68 and b92. I tried flexing the harness pretty good and still nothing. I’ll keep trying until you get back to me.
 

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From the shape and wire colors, it does look to be F68; as far as I know, F68 is the only 4-wire, square, connector at the main fuse box that has that set of wire colors in those positions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OH MY GOD! Thank you so much for your help seriously wouldn’t have been able to do this without your insight and expertise. Right after posting the above I looked at a split part of my harness and noticed a turquoise wire (so I thought) turns out the white and black wire had got cut at some point and the copper had oxidized lol. It was just copper dust in there. I cut the wire to fresh copper and checked the continuity. Finally I got a beep from my meter!
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I bought this car for 550 because the previous owner hit an elk on the drivers side.
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when the impact happened must’ve cut into this wire and a few others I found. The cut is seriously right in line with the spot welded sheet metal under the fender. Thank you! Now I just have to splice the wire maybe add some not sure.
 

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That's great. It's always nice to get to that point.

If there's other wires there with cracked insulation, it's probably a good idea to repair those now, as they could fail in the future due to exposure.

Can you post a wider angle photo of the area of the brake, so that anyone reading this later will have a better idea of where the harness is in that otherwise hidden area under the fender?

I'm also interested in where it is and how you found it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
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The electrical tape/insulation had been cut just enough to see the green until I peeled it back. I found it only when I was flexing the harness and noticed color. The cut was against the body. Idk hopefully this will help another person.

Should I cut the other damaged wires back some and then butt slice them together or just electric tape over the exposed copper? The others aren't as bad.
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Should I cut the other damaged wires back some and then butt slice them together or just electric tape over the exposed copper? The others aren't as bad.
Great photos. We can see how the harness probably was pressed against the edge of the sheet metal by the crushed fender.

For the other wires, if only the insulation is damaged, and the copper strands inside aren't nicked or cut through, the individual wires can be wrapped tightly with tape to restore the insulation, and then the whole harness wrapped with tape as before.

If any strands are nicked or broken, I would cut the wire, and rejoin the ends. (I would twist and solder the ends, and cover with heat shrink tubing, then tape, as above, rather than use butt splices, but that's an individual choice.) A small length of wire might be needed between the ends if they don't reach easily.

Noticed that the wheel well liner appears to be missing a large section. That might have exposed the damaged wiring to water and dirt, causing the further deterioration of the copper wire.

Good sleuthing and looks as if it's on the way . . . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for your help again I finished soldering today and my power door locks now work. I’ll definitely look in to getting a replacement wheel well liner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I was putting my dash back together and I was wondering if you knew where this plugged into? When I took it off it wasn’t plugged in anywhere.
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Might be the "status indicator/Valet button" which is related to the security system.

It looked at first like something not factory-installed, and there's nothing in the wiring diagrams I have that identifies a red connector with only one or two poles/wires.

However, the 1999 Owners Manual, on page 1-14 and following, describes a light (actually a light and push-button switch) in the dash to the left of the steering wheel which looks similar.

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If that's what it is, I would imagine there would be a Security module in the vicinity under that dash with a related connector. But again, the documentation I have does not include a security (or related, keyless entry) system, which apparently was a option.
 
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