Hopefully it's okay; however, the "raised wheel test" also unfortunately doesn't indicate if the AWD transfer clutch is "fully" functional. It might have enough friction to transfer the small amount of torque needed to turn the rear wheel (or wheels) when raised, but not when on the ground.
The scientific way to check it would be to put the car on a four wheel dynamometer, and then load the rear to see if the torque delivery to the wheels is maintained.
For us average users, a real situation, such as a slippery uphill slope will do -- stop the car on the slope, in gear, and have a second person watching both rear wheel from a distance. Try to accelerate rapidly, intending to get the wheels to spin, rather than move the car. If the AWD is working properly, when one or both front wheels are spinning, at least one rear wheel will be spinning as well. If neither rear wheel seems to be doing anything, then the AWD isn't working properly.
As a preliminary, turn the key to ON but don't start the car. Make sure that the AT Oil Temp light, the check engine light, and the AWD (or FWD) light come on. Then, start the car; all three should go out, and none come back on or flash at any time.
Your AWD car has an auxiliary fuse socket at the right rear of the engine compartment. It should be labelled for the AWD or FWD fuse. When there's no fuse in the socket, the car should be in AWD mode. When a fuse is installed, the car is forced into FWD mode, and the warning light should come on in the instrument panel.