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Discussion Starter #1
Figured I would write this up in case somebody stumbled across it in a search.

Did one of my rear wheel bearings this weekend. First thing to note is having a wheel wiggle when off the ground is not the only sign that you have a bad wheel bearing. I had a howl out fo the back for a while and was looking at other things since the wheel was tight. There was never any wobble in the wheel but after I took it apart the outter race was badly pitted.

Getting the hub off is about as easy as it could be so don't be affraid to take it on.

A good press is needed. Fortunately a friend had one that did the job.

A bearing splitter is not needed and honestly I don't see how it would have helped. You will need a small pully pullers. I took a pair of side cutters to the outer seal and that gave me plenty of clearance to get the puller on. Unfortunately I found that out after I drove around for a few hours trying to find a bearing splitter. I had to use a few sockets to get enough clearance to pull the outer race off but wasn't difficult by any means.

Make sure you buy all three seals. Part stores don't really know what they are talking about but you'll need the outer, center and inner seals.

Hardest part of the job was getting the drum brakes (emergency brakes) hooked up. Quiet as a mouse now.

If you don't have the press take it to a mechanic and have him put the new bearing in. Shouldn't charge you too much.

All said and done it cost about 60 bucks in parts. To do it again it would take about 2 hours to do it again.

Hope this answers some questions that I was unable to find ansers to.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
"with the right tools" is the key phrase there. Those are very specialized tools that the average DIYer doesn't have.

I really didn't find it hard to pull the parts off the car. All said and done the hub was off in about 20 minutes from removing first lug nut to removing e-brake cable.
 

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'97 Outback Limited, 2.5 DOHC, Automatic, ABS
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In a rust belt area, the long bolt thru the control arms is nearly impossible to remove. And that's on a lift, with a torch and air tools. Even with an OTC Hub Grappler ($500ish) to do the bearing, the bear is getting the axle out of the way. So, how did you get the axle out? Did the long bolt come right out? S
 

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Discussion Starter #5
In a rust belt area, the long bolt thru the control arms is nearly impossible to remove. And that's on a lift, with a torch and air tools. Even with an OTC Hub Grappler ($500ish) to do the bearing, the bear is getting the axle out of the way. So, how did you get the axle out? Did the long bolt come right out? S
I put an impact on the bolt, applied pressure to the nut side and spun the bolt. With the bolt spining it backed out pretty good. Mine wasn't too bad and came out without needing any PB Blaster. If it was really bad, shoot some lube in there and then spin the bolt to work the lube into the rusted areas. I wouldn't use heat as you might end up melting the bushings.

One everything was disconnected a light tap on the axle and it fell out.
 

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Maybe this is the problem I have been hearing as of lately, coming from the rear area of my OB. But does the noise go away when you are in neutral and say, coasting to a stop??
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Maybe this is the problem I have been hearing as of lately, coming from the rear area of my OB. But does the noise go away when you are in neutral and say, coasting to a stop??
My noise depended on speed, and could be heard as low as ~15mph. Faster you went the louder it got. A little bit of tone change in hard turns at speed but not much. At 60 it was difficult to hold a conversation in the car.

If your noise goes away when you are in neutral and coasting to a stop look into you driveline. axle shaft, drive shaft,...
 
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