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Please keep in mind the newer OB's have much smaller front bars than previous model. Spring rates and other things were changed. I strongly suggest you do not put on a bigger rear bar than front unless you really know what you are doing. Terminal oversteer is not fun. This is why I'm running 21/19.
 

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Yeah, I looked at the photo on the ebay listing, there is a little text note at the top stating 'product images are for illustrative porpoises only' - this would be the reason things look strange.
I did see that note, which is why I posted the link to that part number on Whiteline Australia’s website. :)They indicate that BSK014 part number is for Subarus up to year 2009.

I don’t know if the following will help.

While the Liberty (Legacy in other markets) rear bar should also fit the Outback, I don’t know if the end links on the Outback are the same length as on the Liberty & Legacy. If using the stock end links that won’t matter, but for non-standard end links it could.

The stock front bar on the 2016 Liberty 3.6R & the 2019 Outback 3.6R is 21mm OD. The stock rear bar is 16mm OD with 15mm ID rubber bushes (marked on the side of the bushes).

The Australian Subaru Dealers can order the 19mm STi rear bar if you want to go that way & only fit a rear bar. It cost me about $200 with the included bushes when I bought mine back in 2010. They should also be able to order the 2015 WRX 20mm rear bar.

The 19mm MY11 WRX STi rear bar was part number 20451FG020 & the 18mm ID rubber bushes that come supplied with that bar was part number 20464FG020. I don’t have part numbers for the 2015 WRX 20mm rear bar but the dealer should be able to look it up.
 

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Please keep in mind the newer OB's have much smaller front bars than previous model. Spring rates and other things were changed. I strongly suggest you do not put on a bigger rear bar than front unless you really know what you are doing. Terminal oversteer is not fun. This is why I'm running 21/19.
Totally agree. (y) 21 front/19 rear would be my choice if increasing the rear. I think they made changes to the spring/damper rates & some bushings in Jock’s 2018 model onwards. The front bar is 21mm OD with different end links in gen6 Liberty/Legacy & gen5 Outback.

…..
 

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As of today, I can count myself among those who have swapped out the original 16mm rear stabilizer bar for the 19mm bar. I can only say that this is, by far, the best money we've spent on this car in the 4+ months that we've owned it.

When I began the post installation test drive I noticed a huge improvement in the way car corners as soon as I made the right turn onto the highway coming out of our condo complex. I proceeded to a windy hilly less traveled secondary road where I could lay into it a bit and it nearly felt like I was back on my '05 OB it handled so well. The body roll is gone! From there I took it out and did about 40 miles of interstate where it handled the reduced radius curves of the on and off ramps without any issue and lane changes were a snap. The body roll that we were experiencing before has vanished.

I know that some have installed the 20mm bar but, I don't think that's necessary. The 19mm bar seems more than adequate. Some have said that changing to the 19 or 20mm sway bars made the way the car rides feel rougher. I don't notice that at all. I don't think sway bars in general affect the way the car rides in any way.

I would highly recommend this mod to anyone with a 2019 OB.
 

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Subaru won't cover the bar if it failed. Never heard of one doing that.
 

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The bar itself not being covered isn’t the concern. It’s a metal bar and rubber bushings anyway. Not much to go wrong.

As far as I understand, they have to prove the modification was the cause of the fail.

A rear sway bar won’t even be noticeable to any tech unless they measured it for who knows what reason (as stated in this thread already).

Understand dealerships have strict rules on modification with warranty due to all the hacks out there. I’d wager to say most people are not mechanically inclined.
 

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That SOA directive is full of "ifs", "mights", and "coulds". It was completely devoid of any "shalls", "wills", or "won'ts". In other words, there is a lot of room for interpretation. As @SubyDubie said, I think they have to prove that the mod caused the failure. The 19mm sway bar is, in fact, a Subaru part as are the rubber bushings that go with it and unless a tech were to actually measure it with a set of calipers, it will be very hard to tell the difference. It doesn't affect anything except improve the handling of the car without impacting any other components or systems.
 

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The bar itself not being covered isn’t the concern. It’s a metal bar and rubber bushings anyway. Not much to go wrong.

As far as I understand, they have to prove the modification was the cause of the fail.

A rear sway bar won’t even be noticeable to any tech unless they measured it for who knows what reason (as stated in this thread already).

Understand dealerships have strict rules on modification with warranty due to all the hacks out there. I’d wager to say most people are not mechanically inclined.
Especially if ya remove the label saying it's a 19MM.

Bill
 

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Swapping out 19mm RSB might result in warranty loss...

I didn’t think so until I saw this directive from SOA...

This is really sad to see this from Subaru




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There is nothing out of the ordinary about that statement..... all manufacturers have this policy. There are modifications that no manufacturer should liable for if it raises the risk of a related warranty expense. All products “are Warranted as designed....”

The RSB is a rather innocuous mod unlike lift/lowering kits or performance brakes and the such, practices

My son-in-law replaced the RSB on his 2013 OB with a 20mm.... during a state inspection they found an end link loose and broken. The Subaru dealer simply replaced both under warranty. No questions asked...
 

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Swapping out 19mm RSB might result in warranty loss...

I didn’t think so until I saw this directive from SOA...

This is really sad to see this from Subaru




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The letter specified that only Subaru accessories are recommended...... So by installing a Subaru accessory part all should be good.....
 

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Installed my 19mm bar today. But I hit a snag. I think I cross threaded the 12mm bolt on the top side of the bracket. The gap is almost all the way closed and it’s tight but I’m afraid to torque it all the way down. Any recommendations? Will it be fine? Or is there a way to take it apart and fix it properly?
 

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I know your pain. That bolt gave me trouble too.t Do you have a tap that size?
 

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Installed my 19mm bar today. But I hit a snag. I think I cross threaded the 12mm bolt on the top side of the bracket. The gap is almost all the way closed and it’s tight but I’m afraid to torque it all the way down. Any recommendations? Will it be fine? Or is there a way to take it apart and fix it properly?
Been there done that. Take the nut and try it on the bolt to see if it screws in by itself properly without the bar. If it’s going in a slant, you’re screwed and have to get a replacement.
If it goes in ok without slanted angle, you’re ok. you have to hold the bar up in an angle with someone’s help to get that nut go in the proper angle.
I almost cross threaded it too but I had it angled properly and it thankfully went in the right angle.

I posted a installation tip previously on this forum to address this issue because when you install the bar and do the end links first, the bracket is angled and you can have this issue of forcing the nut in an angle.


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Been there done that. Take the nut and try it on the bolt to see if it screws in by itself properly without the bar. If it’s going in a slant, you’re screwed and have to get a replacement.
If it goes in ok without slanted angle, you’re ok. you have to hold the bar up in an angle with someone’s help to get that nut go in the proper angle.
I almost cross threaded it too but I had it angled properly and it thankfully went in the right angle.

I posted a installation tip previously on this forum to address this issue because when you install the bar and do the end links first, the bracket is angled and you can have this issue of forcing the nut in an angle.


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The bolt only goes in at an angle. Can’t get it to go through straight even without the bracket in position. I tried both bolts and they both do the same thing so I thinks it’s crossed in the nut. I tried to put a bolt through the opposite way to straighten the threads but it apparently didn’t work.

I did install the end links first.
 

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The bolt only goes in at an angle. Can’t get it to go through straight even without the bracket in position. I tried both bolts and they both do the same thing so I thinks it’s crossed in the nut. I tried to put a bolt through the opposite way to straighten the threads but it apparently didn’t work.

I did install the end links first.
Yup they must have been cross threaded at this point if you cannot have them go in properly without the brackets. I’m not sure what you could do to fix the cross threads but you should look into replacing the threads. For now, you should research into driving the car without any Rear Sway Bars by taking off the bar.
You have my condolences on this. It almost happened to me and I was very stressed when the nut would not go in the bracket. I tried putting the nut on without the bracket and it worked so I had someone lift the bar up for me to angle it right to get the nut on the thread. My thumbs and fingers were numb by end but I somehow got the nut on and managed to avoid the cross thread. I think it’s crucial to not use the wrench with force until you know the nut is on properly. Or else you can cross thread it because the force from the wrench can cross thread it. Bruceey did the trial to take off the rear sway bar so I would look up his post on taking the rear sway bar off so you can drive the vehicle without the end links hanging out and scraping it on the ground. Good luck


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The bolt only goes in at an angle. Can’t get it to go through straight even without the bracket in position. I tried both bolts and they both do the same thing so I thinks it’s crossed in the nut. I tried to put a bolt through the opposite way to straighten the threads but it apparently didn’t work.

I did install the end links first.
If you could run a tap from the back side that would straighten out the threads. Not sure if that is possible without checking it out.
 

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If you could run a tap from the back side that would straighten out the threads. Not sure if that is possible without checking it out.
Gonna try the tap idea. Set on order from Amazon. Anybody know what size it would be? I just guessed with a set of metric taps from 3-12mm.

But honestly, it’s in there pretty tight. Is there really a big risk in driving it?
 
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