2.5l engine ??
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2013 Outback has an FB engine available - FB engines have a chain.
more info; http://www.cars101.com/
more info; http://www.cars101.com/
Thank you. Might be time to consider a trade.
Nobody is going to disagree with the fact the new FB series engines are superior to the older EJ series but I have say as I have pointed out the last changes the EJ went through (2010) really fine-tuned a great engine. Whats a belt change at 100k?, 3 to 5 hundred?
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I know - right. The FB motor has not been tested long enough to know if it is, in fact, better.
it may be that, if Fuji could have found a way to get the narrower valve angles they wanted and stay with a belt they would have - dunno
And I detect no chain noise in our H6 Outback. In fact, if it were a little noisier, my daughter wouldn't have tried to start it while it was still running - on 2 different occasions!
And the FBs ARE quite new, but the chain-equipped H6es have done a decent job for 13 years or so.
And I detect no chain noise in our H6 Outback. In fact, if it were a little noisier, my daughter wouldn't have tried to start it while it was still running - on 2 different occasions!
And the FBs ARE quite new, but the chain-equipped H6es have done a decent job for 13 years or so.
Maybe so, but that does not necessarily translate to the FB motor being as reliable as the EJ.
2015 OB Limited 2.5i PZEV MR, Keyless Access & Push-Button Start, Nav, Eyesight - Tungsten Metallic
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This may seem like an odd comparison but it's one of the reasons I continue to buy a DLP TV - although only Mitsubishi still makes one so I've probably bought my last one. People complain that the bulb in a DLP TV has a limited life span and will probably need replacement a couple of times over the life of the set but each time you replace the bulb it's like looking at a brand new set from the factory. Other technologies have their light source fade/degrade over time and aren't practical to rectify.
An engine that needs the timing belt replaced will be like rolling the odometer back to zero - with regards to timing belt longevity - but you'd never replace a timing chain as routine maintenance so it's reliability could be questionable in a high mileage car. Plus when people replace the timing belt I would assume they also have the water pump replaced - another high mileage weak spot that could cause trouble. Not sure if the new FB engine has a water pump that can be accessed without removing the timing chain - I would hope it could.
An engine that needs the timing belt replaced will be like rolling the odometer back to zero - with regards to timing belt longevity - but you'd never replace a timing chain as routine maintenance so it's reliability could be questionable in a high mileage car. Plus when people replace the timing belt I would assume they also have the water pump replaced - another high mileage weak spot that could cause trouble. Not sure if the new FB engine has a water pump that can be accessed without removing the timing chain - I would hope it could.
People also tend to argue in favor of what they currently own. I'd like to keep this car past a 100k but I doubt I'll keep it to 200k. So maybe I'll save with a chain, maybe I won't. Not really worried about it and it wasn't a deciding factor for me.
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I just happen to be really familiar with the older 2.5 and when its taken care of properly not over heated etc it will out last the rest of the car. The new engine should be far superior but only time will tell right now its simply an unknown.
Given that the only reason most people like timing chains vs. belts is for "cost savings" associated with no timing belt replacement, I'll say that I am more than happy to save the $.74/day it will cost me for a timing belt and water pump at 105,000 miles (that includes labor). I have witnessed enough timing chain issues (guides, tensioners, etc) on VW 2.5 inline 5's to conclude that you'll probably spend the same amount on repairs or replacements, just pick which you'd rather do.
2011 Outback 2.5i Premium, CVT, Steel Silver, all-weather package. Upgrades: Tweeter kit, BlueConnect, media hub, remote start, Curt 2" receiver hitch.
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At least it's better than a VW TDI. Some models had timing belt intervals as low as 40,000 miles, and a PROPER belt change costs nearly $2,000 at a dealership, or closer to $1,200 from a private party. The parts alone cost about $500, and that doesn't include the computer hookup that is necessary to time the injection pump. Also, just being one tooth off can cause catastrophic engine damage. They did up the interval to 100,000 miles on later models, but the tensioners can fail before that. If you don't hear it ticking, and it does go, you'll be replacing an engine (approx. $6,000 to $8,000).
Just to add insult to injury, most dealerships "forget" to use new motor mount bolts, and then they will snap 10-20,000 miles later (out of warranty) and the engine will drop... At least stranding you, if not taking out some expensive components. Oh, and some won't change the water pump if it isn't showing signs of leaking, as if that means it will last another 100,000 miles. If the WP seizes, it is possible to throw the belt... And, again, that means you need a new engine.
Just to add insult to injury, most dealerships "forget" to use new motor mount bolts, and then they will snap 10-20,000 miles later (out of warranty) and the engine will drop... At least stranding you, if not taking out some expensive components. Oh, and some won't change the water pump if it isn't showing signs of leaking, as if that means it will last another 100,000 miles. If the WP seizes, it is possible to throw the belt... And, again, that means you need a new engine.
As one who keeps his cars for several 100k miles, I prefer not to be a beta tester. The other changes in the FB motor attract me more than the chain vs belt. But I am happy with tried and true. We shall see.....
But then, I am almost to the point in life when I have to think about whether I should buy bananas, if they are green, so....
fair enough - ANY new engine is suspect. Just pointing out that, to me, the chain is not noisy, nor is the concept completely novel or unproven on soob engines. The 'mutton chop' piston rod could very well be the engine's undoing.
I own a belt driven soob and a chain driven one. My WRX (which only gets driven about 5K miles per year) will need it's belt changed with only 50-60K miles - based on the TIME part of the maintenance schedule. If it were chain driven, I wouldn't have that expense at all.
The use of the chain allows an improvement in engine design. Whether Fuji dropped the ball on it, and the chain is the weak spot, - only time will tell. Seems like it went well with the EZ30.
The 2.0 FB in the Impreza defiantly has some whine/chain noise and I'm not sure about the Forester or the 13 OB'S 2.5 FB. The Forester did have some unusually noisy start up issues in 11 which prompted a TSB. Also, I'm not sure if the FB design alleviated any potential HG issues
One thing to factor in is if don't use synthetic oil which is not required for the EJ but is for the FB you can save some money over 100k
Everyone is really just guessing about what will and won't be long term. Here is a here and now thought. I've seen multiple posts here and on the Legacy forums of owners wanting more out of their 2.5 EJ. If there was a way to make it as peppy down low as the new FB there are a lot of people who would be spending the extra money now to do so. The FB didn't bring a price increase with it so does the extra pep offset the possible negatives some of you see?
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