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Quick update,
My car has a new radiator, water pump,hoses and thermostat. It's been running great until a few weeks ago it overheated after running around town for most of the day. So I removed the thermostat and it ran perfect. Only problem is that all the sudden several warning lights appeared on the dashboard
Ran the codes and it was saying faulty thermostat. So I ordered an OEM thermostat and installed it, once again its overheating.
Anyone have an idea of what could be going on?
 

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What year is your car? If you never had cooling problems prior to all the new parts, then likely an air pocket in the system, thermostat not opening, and heat not transferring out of the engine into the radiator.

are you using a funnel to bleed, or FSM procedure?
 

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What year is your car? If you never had cooling problems prior to all the new parts, then likely an air pocket in the system, thermostat not opening, and heat not transferring out of the engine into the radiator.

are you using a funnel to bleed, or FSM procedure?
2010 non turbo
 

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How far did you let it overheat before you shut off engine? Need to confirm that you did not cause any damage. I’m hoping you did not cause any permanent damage, I think your problem is an air pocket in the system.


Read this thread, starting from post 14 is where I gave tips to another Subaru on her on how to bleed the coolant from one of these engines. Mine is a 2011, same engine as yours, very difficult to properly bleed the air out of.
 

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How far did you let it overheat before you shut off engine? Need to confirm that you did not cause any damage. I’m hoping you did not cause any permanent damage, I think your problem is an air pocket in the system.


Read this thread, starting from post 14 is where I gave tips to another Subaru on her on how to bleed the coolant from one of these engines. Mine is a 2011, same engine as yours, very difficult to properly bleed the air out of.
Great information, the hose I used was 3/4 and my heater works now but after driving around for 45 minutes or so my red heat light began blending, pulled over and sure enough my over flow was bubbling again 😡. Do I need to burp to system again?
 

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Yes, assuming your HG are still intact, I believe you still have trapped air in the system.

Let car completely cool off. Then start from removing lines from heater core (pinch off the lines that go to engine block). Flush the core while you are in there. Then fill core completely w coolant, keep the clear lines higher than dash while you tend to the engine side.

the two lines you removed that go to theblock- fill coolant through those lines which ensures the passage behind the thermostat is all filled with no air as well as the crossover pipe.

Now quickly reconnect lines to Hester core, try not to make a mess.

now ensure overflow is full. Turn on engine, raise idle to 2500 and hold there for system to come up to temp. (With radiator cap installed)

before driving again, make sure both upper and lower hoses are hot and u have heat from dash. This means that thermostat has open, coolant is circulating properly through your system, and the engine should be good to go. you want to catch any overheating in your garage rather than on the road.

If this is good, took it for a short ride keeping an eye on the temperature. Assuming all is well, when you get home, let the car cool off completely. When car is cold, refill the overflow bottle to the full line. Now should be good to drive, just keep an eye on it for a few days to make sure that the overflow bottle is rising, but returning back to the same level at the line. If it rises but doesn’t come back, you either have a leak in the system, or head gasket which is introducing air to the system.

Give it a try and let me know how it turns out.

One more thing for you to confirm, make sure you are using an OEM Subaru radiator cap, not aftermarket junk which may be opening too quickly not holding pressure
 

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This is a great tool for burping air out of a cooling system.



You use the radiator cap adapter to clamp one of the yellow gasketed spouts onto the radiator, then put the funnel into the yellow spout. Fill the radiator with coolant and keep filling about 1/3 to 1/2 more up the funnel and put the lid on. You then run the engine until the temp gauge on your car goes up to operating temp (usually 1/2 way) and you'll see when the thermostat opens, usually a big burp of air followed by draining of most to all coolant down the funnel. The lid is important because the burp can splatter coolant all over your engine compartment. After a couple of open and close cycles, turn off the engine, put the T-handle plug into the funnel to seal it and take the funnel off and drain the remaining coolant in the funnel back into your coolant container for later.
 

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I normally use this funnel as well, works great on most cars. But I found it doesn’t work on the 2010/2011 Subaru. I think by the heater core is higher than the rad cap, the air pocket there never moves and then causes then system to bubble out before the thermostat opens.

Doing the way I described is the best way I found to bleed the system, especially one that was completely open as in OPs case with all the new parts installed.
 
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