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2000 ej25 rebuild in progress

14487 Views 46 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  jeb532, 
J
Bought a 2000 Outback with a bad motor to use to teach my 16 year-old how to rebuild an engine.

Got the motor apart today, mostly (haven't split the block yet)...found pieces of inserts in the pan. Yep...that was definitely a rod knock ;)

http://s561.photobucket.com/albums/ss57/5322009/?action=view¤t=insert2.jpg

Cylinders appear to be ok. Can still see the hone marks.

Intake valve tips all have a weird little dimple in the center..never seen this before...

http://s561.photobucket.com/albums/ss57/5322009/?action=view¤t=intake1.jpg

Exhaust valve tips looked normal...

Bought a UEL header on EBAY ($138)...fits very well...would have been nice if they had added just another 1/2" clearance around the front of the oil filter....so simple...no performance hit....DUHHHH!

Bought a Stage 1 clutch kit too...

Gotta say, been building engines since 1964...Subie engines are the weirdest combination of brilliant and stupid I think I've seen.
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J
Costs

Basic rebuild cost$1,605.51
Basic machine shop work$260.00
Basic replacement parts$1,256.51
Special tools needed$89.00

Rebuild with upgrades$1,802.55
Upgrades$197.04

Total rebuild with upgrades and performance mods$2,358.54
Performance modifications$555.99

Basic Machine Shop Work$260.00
block vat$30.00head vat$30.00
0.020" overbore$125.00
0.010"/0.0110" crank machining$75.00
Basic Replacement parts$1,256.51
Clutch kit (see upgrades)$96.95
Oil pump (see upgrades)$85.00
3 stock rods (see upgrades)$234.00
Timing kit$149.56
one fuel injector (broken accidently)$65.00
Rebuild gasket kit (includes timing kit)$540.00
8 intake/8 exhaust valves$86.00

Upgrades to necessary parts$197.04
Stage 1 clutch kit upgrade delta cost$21.05
11mm oil pump upgrade delta cost$80.00
Eagle H-Beam rods delta cost$95.99

Performance modifications$555.99
UEL header$138.99
Fidanza 12.5 lb flywheel$152.00
regrind cams$190.00
new valve springs
crank spin balance$75.00

Special Tools required$89.00
ball-gages$19.00
breaker bar$26.00
impact torx drivers$24.0grinding disks$20.00
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cardoc
Gonna be a torquey motor. Especially if you can get the intake charge temperature down to less than 20 over ambient.

Rally or XCar in it's future?
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J
gonna be my nasty weather car...just not in my nature to rebuild an engine bone stock...;)
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J
intake temperature....been thinking about that...

Really want some l..o..n..g tube headers...used to create my own for my race cars. Typically the primaries were about 43" long and the collectors were about 20" long and the pullde hard from ~3500 rpm to 6000 rpm.

"Top end horsepower sells cars....but mid-range torque wins motor races"...is the truth!
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reddrexx
wow thanks for the detailed yet understandable answers to my questions that was great :29:
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J
update...

working the crank and block assembly. lookslike all the main and rod bearings are coming out at the high side of the tolerances...i.e...about 0.0015 to 0.0019 inches clearance. Guess I'll be running a little bit thicker oil than usually spec'd...

Best regular oil I've ever used...Valvoline 10w-40 racing oil...an "ashless" oil....comes from some specific wells in the northeast Ten years on one engine and as clean internally as the day I put it together. ZERO internal crud.

As for a synthetic...only ever used AMSOIL...and don't have a ten year trial on that.
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cardoc
I've had similar results with Royal Purple. I have a Chevy 2.2 Saginaw in a Cavalier I built 70k ago. Still looks like new inside. I also believe the RP is what is helping to accomplish 33/45 mpg out of it.
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J
Arrrrgggghhhh!!!!!

down to the last rod/bearing assembly and I get a piece of grit in the bearing shell...

#@#[email protected]#%@[email protected]%[email protected]!

SO now, can I find bearings shells for just one rod...or am I gonna have to buy a whole fricking set...

Sheesh!..and of course it had to happen while I'm showing my son how to do the crank/rod assembly
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J
another aggrevation

I just discovered that the bottom of number two rod (Eagle rods) just kisses the block...so I had to go in with a small scotchbrite pad and grind in some clearance under the rod...plus wash down everything again...

Good Grief!
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J
couldn't get just one bearing shell

so I bought a full set of ACL race bearings for the rods....
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1
before you button it up, think about the rods growing long before the block will with heat expantion, did you give it some extra clearance for heat groth?

if you only buffed it till it misses cold , it could make contact with a little heat.



just a thought before you got to far to check it.
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J
good thought...and yep, I made sure I had at least .05" clearance on every rod end.

If they grow that much...I have much bigger problems...:)
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J
Since I had the extra time...

I worked on the inner radius of the exhaust ports just downstream of the seat insert. That nasty little sharp corner with only about a 1/8" radius now has more like a 1/4" radius. Probably could have gone a little farther...but without head to section up I didn't want to push my luck....
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J
thermal expansion

The block is aluminum, rods are 4340 steel. Aluminum expands significantly faster than steel...about 2X faster. The block will expand away from the centerline of the crank faster than the rod ends will expand towards the block.
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1
wasn't thinkin about the block beeing aluminum.......:rolleyes: carry on...
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J
got the short block together

...and drove the rear main seal in too far...dang manual doesn't tell you when to stop...so now I making a seal puller 'cause I am NOT taking stuff apart.

It'll be a good exercise anyway...I had hiatal hernia surgery yesterday so I can't lift anything over 10 lbs.

Laprascopic...the only way to go for surgery..in and out in one day!
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J
yea...got the seal out without messing up anything else...

Checked the valve springs today...all are within specs...

Gonna slap together a cam/head and a set of rockers and check the cam profile (Delta 1500 grind).

Made a 3D solid model of the valve train in Pro Engineer...and the rocker arm ratio appears to vary quite a bit as the rocker rotates through its motion. Looks like the exhaust starts out about 1.48:1 and finishes up about 1.57:1. The Intake changes like 1.77:1 to 1.85:1

So I slapping a degree wheel on the cam and a dial indicator on the valve. I post the results...maybe by the weekend...
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J
yea...got the short block together...

short-block.jpg photo by 5322009 | Photobucket

Maybe I'll have it running in a few days...
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cardoc
That engine is too clean. You need more finger prints.

I am probably not the only one here to be thinking it, but I will suggest that you take and post live video of the start up.

I want to hear it running.
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J
cardoc said:
I am probably not the only one here to be thinking it, but I will suggest that you take and post live video of the start up.
Click to expand...
Definately!
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