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Discussion Starter #1
would a 1/2 to 3/4 qt of high tech synthetic oil added to my crankcase cause the rods to start clatering??? my oil was low about a qt of oil and i put about 3/4 qt in it. drove 9 miles at 55mph and the mtor started clacking and i pull over. when the tow truck came i started it back up and it was almost normal until i reved it up and the clacking returned.

would the synthetic oil cause it or was it the 176,000 miles. it was purring like a kitten before that.

thanks
stickman161
 

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2004 Outback Wagon, 2.5, 4EAT, All weather package.
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Is the noise a constant when it is running or does it go away? Get louder, quieter? Did you suddenly lose power or did it feel just as powerful despite the noise?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Is the noise a constant when it is running or does it go away? will idle with no noise,loud when you step on it Get louder, quieter?
Did you suddenly lose power or did it feel just as powerful despite the noise? lost power when it first happen. would not idle i thought the oil was low and put in 2 new 5w 30w and then it did idle at 2 qts over, but loud noise when reved up.

thanks
 

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2004 Outback Wagon, 2.5, 4EAT, All weather package.
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I am by no means an expert at all, but from your description it sounds like my Grand Prix GTP did when I bought it with a "blown" engine. A very loud metallic knock that was sometimes louder, sometimes quieter. I assumed it was a spun bearing based on the noise. We found out what it was when we were swapping the engine out... when the engine and the transmission disconnected we heard the same noise. It was a cracked flex plate.

Does it sound anything like this?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4dS7XAsL3Y4


That was my GTP not long before we swapped engines. I am not saying this is your issue, it could be any number of things, further investigation is required. But does it sound similar at all? Louder? Different noise all together?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
it's a blown motor. drove it about 1/8 ml with the clacking noise after changing oil, and it lost power the last 100 ft, noise stopped and a large plum of steam and oil mist came from under the hood. open the hood and there a hole towards the top/back drivers side. exactly where the toll truck driver pointed out. thanks all for help.

engne quotes from $300(missed by a week) to $1300. found one for $450 with low milesthat was involved in a rollover accident and someone to replace for 600. how can i be sure the motor is ok. no salvage yards warrentee the labor.

what should be replaced while moter is out besides, timing belt, water pump, plugs.

thanks
 

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2011 Tacoma TRD Sport Double Cab Long Box
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You sure it was oil you put in and not a case of someone putting something else in the wrong container? I suppose it's possible that container had something really bad in it that mixed with the oil and caused major damage pretty quickly. Not sure what you could add to do that, but I'm sure there's something that would. Otherwise, it seems like a coincidence.

Head gaskets would be a concern on any EJ25 from that year. Might not be a bad idea to have them replaced on the replacement engine before you put it in the car.
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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it's a blown motor. drove it about 1/8 ml with the clacking noise after changing oil, and it lost power the last 100 ft, noise stopped and a large plum of steam and oil mist came from under the hood. open the hood and there a hole towards the top/back drivers side. exactly where the toll truck driver pointed out. thanks all for help.

engne quotes from $300(missed by a week) to $1300. found one for $450 with low milesthat was involved in a rollover accident and someone to replace for 600. how can i be sure the motor is ok. no salvage yards warrentee the labor.

what should be replaced while moter is out besides, timing belt, water pump, plugs.

thanks
All the seals and regasket the oil pan. Keep all your sensor parts from the blown engine. TPS, MAF, IACV, Coil, injectors, etc.. You or someone else may need them. The salvage yard is just going to dump the engine into the scrap pile so strip it for any parts you want to keep. They just want the block and heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks to all that has helped. unfoutunately the one engine with low miles and $450 was too old. other prices in my area start at $700 to 1300 with only replacement warrentees. the one that had it for $450 is a trusted yard that i've been dealing with for many years. he was even going to do the transfer for 350.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
found an engine at the last place i wanted to deal with. their known for robbing people. they said they had two. 123,000 $800 installed with a yr warrentee, parts and labor, and one with 73,000 $1500 with 3 yr warrentee. i figured the 3 yr would be the better deal. he wanted $750 down. after hanging up i thought how could i tell which one was installed.
i called back he he said i have to take his WORD for it. what a joke, i changed to the $800 1 yr, then he said it was only 6 mons, his son that promised the year was mistaken (1st screw job)
. next fight will be getting it in writing for parts and labor. i paying cash so there no transaction. i'm saving $64, he probably saves 160 or more by not reporting it on his taxes.
 

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found an engine at the last place i wanted to deal with. their known for robbing people. they said they had two. 123,000 $800 installed with a yr warrentee, parts and labor, and one with 73,000 $1500 with 3 yr warrentee. i figured the 3 yr would be the better deal. he wanted $750 down. after hanging up i thought how could i tell which one was installed.
i called back he he said i have to take his WORD for it. what a joke, i changed to the $800 1 yr, then he said it was only 6 mons, his son that promised the year was mistaken (1st screw job)
. next fight will be getting it in writing for parts and labor. i paying cash so there no transaction. i'm saving $64, he probably saves 160 or more by not reporting it on his taxes.
You are not seriously thinking about going this route are you? Its got snow job written all over it. Keep looking.
 

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6 month warranty is fairly common for engines from junk yards....but yeah that place doesn't sound like a great fit. don't let need push you into a bad decision. however bad off you are now - it *can* get worse if you make a risky decision.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
too late to consider keep looking advise. i had it towed to the crook 1/14/2013. i was promised job was to be completed 3-4 days. he missed by 16-17 days. every time i called he had different reason why it wasn't done, including wrong 2.5 engine. are there two 2.5's?????

i'm picking it up Monday 2/4/2013.

my guess is, no clean oil, my completly full tank of gas is not full any more. and there will be an big argument trying to get that 6 month warrenty in writing.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
:17:picked up today, engin1 qt. oil low, no anti freeze in the reservor and the AT OIL TEMP LIGHT IS BLINKING. I ASK THE OWNER AND HE SAID IT DOING THAT BECAUSE IT HASN'T BEEN DRIVEN. I said it has never been blinking before and someone must have done something wrong. what did they do to cause the steady blinking. checked transmission fluid and its full.
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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They either don't have the transmission harness plugged in proper or they damaged a wire that goes to the speed sensor or valve body harness. You would need to get the code(s) pulled by someone with a scan tool.

Cheaper is not always better.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i had codes pulled at auto advanced. po303 cylinder 3 misfire.
code po748 " Pressure control solenoid. po748 came up twice.

1) been doing some reading and looks like i'm not alone. i put a new plug in cylinder3 unhooked negitive on battery to clear codes and engine light went off, but i've only driven it a few miles. there was some oil in the #3 cylinder area. plug was real tight and looked fairly new.
2) code po748 " Pressure control solenoid this flashing "at oil temp" light had never appeared in the three yrs i've owned it. is it a possibility the crooks install both a motor and a transmission i/o just the engine? is the harness visable where it might not be connected. is solenoid A an easy fix?
thanks for all advise.
 

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I've heard (never experienced) that careless jacking of the trans pan can cause damage to solenoids/wires that might lead to that code.

Trans would be jacked up during engine reinstall in order to align the studs between engine/trans while still allowing clearance for the motor mount studs.
 

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Advance Auto was able to pull tranny codes from a Subaru? I'll keep that in mind since Auto Zone couldn't get any codes with their Actron scanner.
 
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