Subaru Outback Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
2000 OB, MT
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I think I'm burning some oil every 1,500mi, about a quart(?).. may be the lube shop used JUST enough, idk..

I was thinking if a full synthetic might help my high mileage baby..

I like Royal Purple, I used it on my old turbo II.

Is there anything I should do before I make the switch? I have already put a blend..

Would I need a specific filter other than regular? Should I go a higher weight? How heavy?

Thanks in advanced.

PS: I drive 1/2 city 1/2 highway.. about 2-300mi a month...
 

·
Registered
03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
Joined
·
17,617 Posts
change the PCV valve and clean it's hose.

no special filter - but I wouldn't run the cheapest I could find, oem, purolator Pure One, wix

expect the first one or 2 drains to look very dark, subsequent drains may look a little darker than conventional oil. Synthetic holds 'varnish' better than conventional.

qt in 1500 is not horrible. Don't extend drain intervals as blowby may be thinning your oil with fuel.

I probably wouldn't swap to synthetic at this point but, your choice.

others may have different advice for you - oil discussions are like that lol!
 

·
I simply cannot abide useless people.
2006 2.5i and 2002 3.0 wagons.
Joined
·
12,306 Posts
I wouldn't switch to an expensive syn oil in an oil burner. It'll just be like burning money.

Where is it burning from?

+1 on the check/change PCV
 

·
Registered
2000 OB, MT
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I haven't seen any leaks.. and my car doesn't smoke... tbh i rrally dont know if it is leaking, i will check this weekend, as i havent driven too far since the last time i put a quart in..

I figure, I change the oil at every 3mo or 3,000mi mark, so... --I don't exactly know what expensive is, I've always just stuck to Roya Purple, lol... never looked at any others, but I will this time around, seeing as how I'm just in a lil 4 banger... I'm just concerned for the high mileage..

I will do those things you said...err, what I coul understand, idk if its me, but it sounded like you were speaking another language. Hahaha

Thanks, ya'll.
 

·
I simply cannot abide useless people.
2006 2.5i and 2002 3.0 wagons.
Joined
·
12,306 Posts
Expensive syn is a waste at 3k/3 month. You should be able to double, if not triple that.

Regular oil Pennzoil conventional is usually good for 6-7k miles in these engines in most circumstances, just for reference.

A Used Oil Analysis can help you find out what the oil can do. Google that if it is not something you have encountered.
 

·
Registered
03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
Joined
·
17,617 Posts
awdftw's idea of a UOA (used oil analysis) might tell you if you're getting fuel in the oil so, if not, you could go with a longer drain interval. (assuming metals and silicon etc. are also good)

If the PCV valve has never been cleaned or changed, start with that and monitor the next 1 or 2 intervals for oil usage. If no changem then you might consider some treatment like marvel mystery Oil or SeaFoam to try to clean up possibly gummy oil control rings on the pistons. Compression/leakdown test might be good if still no improvement.

Until some of the above is tried, it's all guesswork as to why the oil is being lost, and then , there are decisions as to the best approach if it's unavoidable.
 

·
Registered
OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
Joined
·
12,391 Posts
everything you need to know about your oil changes is in the owners manual or Subaru Research Site- specs, prices, options, 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009.. Outback, Legacy, Forester, WRX, STI, Impreza, Tribeca, BRZ, XV Crosstrek.

straight to the point - it's pointless to switch to synthetic in this case so it doesn't matter what you do. use whatever synthetic you want in the weights indicated in your owners manual. it is throwing money away, but if you don't care then it doesn't matter.

synthetic isn't going to buy you anything, you'll get the same longevity with conventional. on Turbo engines due to heat it is risky to *not* use synthetic and it's required on modern Subaru turbo engines.

borrowing the rules and requirements for one engine and applying them to another does not gain you anything. the problematic heat generating turbo, oil supply/return lines, screens, and such aren't present on your current engine. so the reasons that synthetics shine don't apply.

unless you want a UOA and longer intervals...
 

·
Registered
2007 outback 2.5i
Joined
·
271 Posts
rather than a synthetic, look into one of the "high mileage" oils on the market.

and the pcv thing.
 

·
Registered
2011 Outback Limited/2.5L/CVT
Joined
·
394 Posts
Light gesture,

There shouldn't be a problem switching to Royal Purple, provided the engine has been properly maintained. I sent you a PM describing my recommended change over procedure...

TS
 

·
Registered
2002 OBW 2.5L 5MT
Joined
·
66 Posts
Blackstone Laboratories

Blackstone Lab is one of the many oil analysis place where you can request for a free kit. The test cost $25. I think if you have over 200k on the motor and you didnot see any oil on the ground and your engine is dry on the outside but it is burning oil, the $25 oil analysis is the best insurance you can give to your car. This will give you a peace of mind on what is going on in your engine.:29:

Here's the link to their site: Blackstone Labs

Synthetics help in somewhat, IMHO, for high mileage cars, especially cleaning out the old slush and residue left by old oil. My dad used to have a MB 240D diesel which has close to 350k on the engine. It was burning oil and all he does is topping it up and never change the oil. I took the car over when he decided to get a newer vehicle and switch to synthetic. The first three or so oil change I have to top it up quite often but after awhile, the oil burning starting to get less and less. It didnot go away but it did slow down the burning process though. I got to the point that I only top it evey 1500 miles. I extended the oil change to 4 times a year after awhile. Sold the car a few years ago with over 400k on the engine:D
 

·
Registered
2011 Outback Limited/2.5L/CVT
Joined
·
394 Posts
I see no problem switching to Royal Purple. Since this is an high mileage engine, I'd start with their 10w-40 (XPS?). The first 1-2 batches of synthetic will slowly clean out any pre existing oil deposits. So I'd change just the oil filter after 5000 miles, or even sooner if oil consumption suddenly increases. Generally by doing a couple of extra filter changes, a few thousand miles apart, you can capture the solids loosened up by the high solvency synthetic.

I'd change the first & second batches of RP after 6000-8000 miles, depending on how dirty it looks. Starting with the third fill of RP the engine should be nice and clean. You can then determine a reasonable change interval using oil analysis testing.

TS
 

·
Registered
OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
Joined
·
12,391 Posts
It was burning oil and all he does is topping it up and never change the oil. I took the car over
change of ownership also means change in driving style, location, habits, catching up on maintenance (PCV or other), different weight oil...can also change oil consumption...how positive are you this was 100% due to oil type?
 

·
Registered
3 2001 Outbacks, 2 AT, 1 MT. 1 2006 Outback AT, 2000 Outback AT, 2008 Outback Sport MT
Joined
·
93 Posts
As oil goes, I'm running Rotella-T6 5W-40 full synthetic (synthetic by US standards, anyway) and so far I'm pleased with the results. My engine threw a rod bearing at around 160k, requiring a new crankshaft. I did perhaps too much reading on the oil subject while waiting for parts to arrive, and there seemed to be good support and evidence (Blackstone lab oil analysis) to use it. And I had a bunch on hand...

After the initial two oil changes, I've been running the Rotella since. I've had no starting issues down to -30F. I use this in two Cummins (5.9 and 6.7) diesel engines, two Perkins (50hp and 99hp) diesel engines, and in both Subaru's. I will be putting it in my Honda this afternoon. Prior to using this oil, I did have starting issues, mostly with the diesels, when the weather dropped below -0F. The only car I won't run it in is our BMW 330xi. For that I use Mobile 1 0W-40 European formula which meets the LL01 standard.

Rotella T6 5W-40 is approved (SM) for gasoline engines.

The only consensus where oil is concerned is there is no consensus...

JP
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top