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Discussion Starter #1
I've searched a bit and am not sure the exact answer is in the forum anywhere. I'm sure it is, but wanted to pose it as a new question and get a few suggestion.

My beautiful 2000 Subaru Outback 2.5l (manual 5 speed) seemed to be a gem of a find to replace my 2011 Outback after it's untimely death. It's not perfect, but I can't complain. Currently at 233,000, 14,000 of my own with little to no issue. However it doesn't love being cold. When the winter set in here a loud whine became apparent. Once it warms up it always disappears.

Now the whine isn't always there at first, but as soon as the steering wheel is turned it screams. Along with this there is a definite buffeting to the steering wheel when the whine is there. Once I've started going it disappears pretty quick. Sometimes after only going a few blocks the car completely dies when I come to a stop. Again this isn't an issue when warmed up. However it does take a few seconds to restart. This may be unrelated to the whining, I"m not completely sure.

Overall she runs like a champ and I want to keep her this way. If you know what the issue may be I would greatly appreciate an answer. If you need more information or have any questions please ask!

Thank in advance!!!
 

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2012 OB , 2017 Impreza
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3,161 Posts
Power steering pump whine. I would check for 'sucking air' thru the Oring at top of pump.
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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It could also be that someone put regular power steering fluid in instead of DEX3 trans fluid. The viscosity if the power steering fluid makes it too thick in cold weather and the pump has to work harder to move the fluid.

If it has trans fluid in it, the o-ring on the top of the pump where the inlet hose connects gets hard and allows the pump to pull air in.

The inlet hose could also be a problem for the same reason. It gets hard and allows air in past the clamp.
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 Pair: 3.0 VDC Wag & 2.5 Limited Sedan
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25,977 Posts
might just be the power steering belt (accessory belt) itself.

I had one that did that on my 2002 H4. it was a new OEM, put on by a mechanic friend, it stretched a little after the first week, started to whine when cold,
I could wiggle and adjust most of it away, but had to take it back to him to get it 100% quiet. he had to open all the bolts again and wiggle and pound a bit for 3 minutes. = but easy for someone that does it all the time.

when the temps went down it would really put up a increasing racket.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I tightened the accessory belt and all seems good with the noise issue now!!!!! Thanks eagleeye!!!!!

Now to try and figure out why it dies on me when I stop before she's all warmed up.....

Thanks again!
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 Pair: 3.0 VDC Wag & 2.5 Limited Sedan
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25,977 Posts
I tightened the accessory belt and all seems good with the noise issue now!!!!! Thanks eagleeye!!!!!

Now to try and figure out why it dies on me when I stop before she's all warmed up.....

Thanks again!
updated thread title, and moved to 2000-2004 section.
 

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2002 Outback
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673 Posts
Could it be the IACV is stuck? (idle air control valve).. It's easy enough to take apart and clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I tried cleaning out the IACV. Had plenty of carbon buildup and I got most of it out I believe. New gasket installed.

Still dies after startup if I take it out of gear. Once the car runs for a while it idles fine and has no issue when I stop.

Any other ideas?
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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13,336 Posts
2000 is cable throttle.
EJ25 of this model is speed density tune using the MAP, so no MAF sensor.

Check:
Throttle body cleanliness.

If you have a DMM, or scan tool that will see the TPS voltage, the closed throttle should be .45-.5V and WOT around 4.8V.

With a scan tool, the MAP should be really close to what the BARO shows. Upon start up it should drop to about 5 psi absolute.

Check for vacuum leaks. Although it's MAP controlled, a leak on one side of the intake will throw it off and the other will get flooded due to fuel correction.

With a scan tool, see what the STFT and LTFT is showing. Then report back.

Temperature sensor may be wonky. Look at it and compare to the outside temp at cold start after it's sat overnight and see if it's within a couple degrees of the ambient air.

The computer uses the intake air temp to calculate air mass, so that would be another cold start up value to check.

The engine takes more fuel when it's cold over a warm one so fuel flow is important. How old is the fuel filter?

I could come up with more, but I think that will do for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Picked up a scan tool today after changing the oil. Poor car has been run hard recently halfway across the country 3 times moving.

Scan showed a misfire on all 4 cylinders - not sure if this is related to the issue or just something that happens.

Also got a P1507 code - quick research shows it could be an issue with my neutral safety switch. Further research points to that but that could just be confirmation bias in my research.

Is the neutral safety switch a likely culprit? or am I facing bigger issues?
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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I would check the battery and grounding before jumping to parts. Then look for a vacuum leak.

Sporadic misfires and the P1507, which is idle control fault due to high idle when the computer wants lower, tends to be related to vacuum leaks. Intake gasket,throttle body gasket,throttle cable misadjusted, EGR valve or EVAP solenoid malfunction, old or broken vacuum hose somewhere are all suspect.
 
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