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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi, first off.... what a great forum and have found it very helpful in the past so much thanks to those in the know that share wisdom! :29:

I have a 2000 Outback Wagon and the Cruise Control is no longer working.

The Cruise Control light comes on and I can hear a relay near the glove compartment engage when button is pressed but cruise fails to engage.

Have checked: fuses, the point by brake pedal where the little pin is depressed and all looks well but still cannot get CC to work.

However, I did plug in the Green Cable and it did seem to work for a few minutes then stopped. The Check Engine light began to flash so I unplugged the green cable and placed some tape over it after helpful users in this forum mentioned it was meant to be left unplugged. After unplugging Green Cable the Check Engine light stopped flashing.

Any help much appreciated! :29:

*I am almost ready to build a Sanford & Son stick wedged between seat and pedal cruise control.

Thanks,
Kitesurf

Edit: Did take it to AutoZone to have them do the free computer check and came back with errors on Knock Sensor P1325 AZ price 78.99 and Fuel Sensor P0463.
Just ordered a knock sensor off of eBay for 20 shipped from China but haven't found a fuel sensor for a good deal.
 

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Have you tried to get the cruise to "set" a few times in a row? I would try this: next time you are trying to set the cruise - try wiggling the wheel back and forth as much as the road allows (or try setting the cruise on a turn).

The cruise in my '02 is intermittent, but if I try to set/cancel a bunch of times right in a row (sometimes 10 times) it'll catch. I've done some research and at least for my problem it looks like my clock spring is not too happy.
 

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I have developed the perfect finger "flick" which my 2000 OBW cruise control will respond to - not too hard, not too soft. Sometimes when it does not seem to take I push up on the lever to res/accelerate mode and it "takes" for some reason. I will watch this thread since it sounds like mine is headed the same way as yours. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Have you tried to get the cruise to "set" a few times in a row? I would try this: next time you are trying to set the cruise - try wiggling the wheel back and forth as much as the road allows (or try setting the cruise on a turn).

The cruise in my '02 is intermittent, but if I try to set/cancel a bunch of times right in a row (sometimes 10 times) it'll catch. I've done some research and at least for my problem it looks like my clock spring is not too happy.
Thanks Nick, have tried the several times in a row and will try adding some slalom turns to it before converting an old ski pole to a new cruise control. ;)

I have developed the perfect finger "flick" which my 2000 OBW cruise control will respond to - not too hard, not too soft. Sometimes when it does not seem to take I push up on the lever to res/accelerate mode and it "takes" for some reason. I will watch this thread since it sounds like mine is headed the same way as yours. Good luck.
Thanks David, will try that again as well
 

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Is this an AT or Manual?

I assume even the Auto has some type of Neutral Safety switch, right? To prevent the cruise from rev'ing the heck out of the engine if you shift to neutral.

Does the cruise computer get any other 'safety' inputs?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is this an AT or Manual?

I assume even the Auto has some type of Neutral Safety switch, right? To prevent the cruise from rev'ing the heck out of the engine if you shift to neutral.

Does the cruise computer get any other 'safety' inputs?
Hi Nick, it is an Automatic and I am unsure about the other questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Still stumped on what it may be so as a temp fix using the rebar stake I pound into the ground to self-launch kite for multipurpose..... yet would really love to find out what it may be and get it fixed correctly.
 

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Have checked: fuses, the point by brake pedal where the little pin is depressed and all looks well but still cannot get CC to work.
Did you check for the small plastic disk on the brake pedal arm?

The brake (stop light) switch is mounted on the non-moving frame of the pedal assembly-- it has the little pin, or plunger, that goes in when the brake pedal is up, that is, is not being pressed. But there should also be a small plastic disk mounted on the brake pedal arm itself that contacts the plunger when the pedal is released. If that little disk is missing, which isn't uncommon, the switch plunger won't be pushed in as far as it should be (the difference small), and this can prevent the cruise from operating.
 

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Still stumped on what it may be so as a temp fix using the rebar stake I pound into the ground to self-launch kite for multipurpose..... yet would really love to find out what it may be and get it fixed correctly.
Funny you should run into this problem and I saw it.

I took video of Cruise Control diag and am uploading it right now on my You Tube channel, CARDOCM.

It should be "live" in about 15 minutes. All you need is a phillips, flat head, 10 mm socket and a test light.

Subaru Forester Cruise Control - YouTube
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Did you check for the small plastic disk on the brake pedal arm?

The brake (stop light) switch is mounted on the non-moving frame of the pedal assembly-- it has the little pin, or plunger, that goes in when the brake pedal is up, that is, is not being pressed. But there should also be a small plastic disk mounted on the brake pedal arm itself that contacts the plunger when the pedal is released. If that little disk is missing, which isn't uncommon, the switch plunger won't be pushed in as far as it should be (the difference small), and this can prevent the cruise from operating.
Thanks Om, yes checked contact point for pin and all good.

Funny you should run into this problem and I saw it.

I took video of Cruise Control diag and am uploading it right now on my You Tube channel, CARDOCM.

It should be "live" in about 15 minutes. All you need is a phillips, flat head, 10 mm socket and a test light.

Subaru Forester Cruise Control - YouTube
CarDoc, you ROCK! Those will be my next steps and a big thanks for putting that video together to help those in need of some safe foot free speed! :29:

*Will update how it goes and thanks again everyone.

CarDoc, much thanks but it looks like the *cruise control *CC for the Forester is different than the 2000 Outback Wagon.

I disassembled drivers side kick plate, dash etc and no CC computer but switch I could hear activating under glove compartment is where it appears to be (*last picture shows box under glove box) but has different wiring than one you show.

I removed fuse from CC and CC switch would not light up or activate what I think is the CC computer under glove compartment. Upon replacing switch lights and can hear a solenoid or ? from CC computer activate so switch and fuse seem to be fine as mentioned int he 1st post.

Here are some pics to show what I am working with and any help or suggestions much appreciated.
 

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Kitesurf:

I noted cardoc's comment on the video page about the wiring diagrams, but sometimes that's all we have to go from for a start. Consequently, do you have the diagram for the cruise control system for your car? The attached copy should apply.

In light of the way the set/pause/cancel switch is wired (apparently, through the horn relay energizing coil), does the horn work on the car?

Also, might be an idea to check that the "set" switch is actually making a good connection back to the CC module?
 

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I thought they waited until 200 to change it. Apparently not. But the test is the same.

The CC module is behind the glove box. It will have a label "Cruise Control" and a single 20 pin plug.

I have attached pics to help.

The brake switch: continuity between pins 1 & 4 when up, no continuity down. Between pins 2 & 3 is the opposite.

Pin 3 on main switch should be battery as long as fuse 18 is good. You should have continuity between pin 3 and 5 in off.

Pin 15 on the CC module will be absent battery with main switch off, battery when on. If the switch is activated as I did in the vid, but power won't remain constant, its the switch.

If you find the switch and Module getting power, then you need to check the continuity on the set switch which requires removing the SRS module from the steering wheel. With the main switch on, you should have battery between ground and pin 2 off the command switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Much thanks plain OM and cardoc for all the help!

Unfortunately I do not have the diagram for the cruise control system for my car and yes, the horn works fine. Only thing not working atm *knocks on wood* is the CC and talked to a few mechanics and mentioned tests I have done and both said it was likely the CC unit under the hood.

Hope to get some time to diagnose further w/ you're supplied info this weekend.

Thanks again and much appreciated,
Kitesurf

Kitesurf:

I noted cardoc's comment on the video page about the wiring diagrams, but sometimes that's all we have to go from for a start. Consequently, do you have the diagram for the cruise control system for your car? The attached copy should apply.

In light of the way the set/pause/cancel switch is wired (apparently, through the horn relay energizing coil), does the horn work on the car?

Also, might be an idea to check that the "set" switch is actually making a good connection back to the CC module?
I thought they waited until 200 to change it. Apparently not. But the test is the same.

The CC module is behind the glove box. It will have a label "Cruise Control" and a single 20 pin plug.

I have attached pics to help.

The brake switch: continuity between pins 1 & 4 when up, no continuity down. Between pins 2 & 3 is the opposite.

Pin 3 on main switch should be battery as long as fuse 18 is good. You should have continuity between pin 3 and 5 in off.

Pin 15 on the CC module will be absent battery with main switch off, battery when on. If the switch is activated as I did in the vid, but power won't remain constant, its the switch.

If you find the switch and Module getting power, then you need to check the continuity on the set switch which requires removing the SRS module from the steering wheel. With the main switch on, you should have battery between ground and pin 2 off the command switch.
 

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I HAD a similar problem with the CC. The switch was working- I could hear the module behind the glove compartment, all of the lights were ON with the key turned to ON and the horn worked. The clock spring must be OK. I checked the brake and clutch switch, both were there and appeared to be in working order- moving freely. I got some degreaser (I used Desolv-It) and sprayed into the CC lever arm position and gave it a cleaning best as possible. There was a lot of gung in there after 12 years of riding around with the dog! I then sprayed in some WD-40 and worked the CC lever to work it in. I took it out on the road to test the CC operation. It was working again! Tested it a couple of more times and it is still working. I plan to give it another shot of WD-10 in the summer when it is really hot in the car. Hope this helps!
 

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Stumbled across a potential fix for you, just ran into it today. This on an '01 OB LTD 5MT, but should work on any model.

Mine was also intermittently working / not working - seemed to give me a lot of trouble the first time I would try to engage on any particular drive, but once it engaged the first time, it was fine after that. However, it was such a PITA to get it to engage the first time I often gave up.

My unrelated repair was trying to tighten a bit of slack that developed in the throttle cable - my gas pedal was feeling a bit flabby and I know from past experience that this would be the remedy. If you look under the hood, just to the right of the throttle body and in front of the air filter box, there are two parallel cables with four bolts that connect to the throttle body, and these four bolts allow you to adjust the amount of slack in the throttle cable. (Though it's hard to describe, once you look at them, it will all make sense.) Apparently one cable is for the throttle from the gas pedal and the other is from the cruise control. If you adjust the cables to remove the slack from each cable, not only does the gas pedal tighten up nicely, but the cruise control seems to be working perfectly since removing the slack - each time, every time. Must be something about the slack that make it not want to engage.

Note: if you do this to both cables and you run into a slight high idle condition (idling at 1000 rpm or more), back each cable off slightly and everything will be in perfect order.

Hope this works for you!
 
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