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Hi everyone,

I have a 2001 L.L. Bean OBW that I purchased a few months ago, mainly for my wife to drive. I've done a lot of reading on the forum and have been slowly fixing some problems with the car.

On a drive to Portland on Thanksgiving the battery and brake lights were flickering on and off. The ABS light flashed a few times as well. The lights stayed off on the way home. The battery cables and terminals were corroded so I cleaned them up, replaced the positive terminal (new Subaru part) and cleaned all the engine grounds too. The problem had not happened again, and I thought (hoped) it was just the corroded terminals. Well, no luck. The lights came on again yesterday. So now I'm shopping for an alternator.

I called the local dealer and was told that Subaru currently doesn't offer a rebuilt alternator for the H6 (maybe they're out of stock?). I read about DB electrical on the forum. It seems they work but are made from (possibly) cheaper Chinese parts. If I went to NAPA, is there a way to confirm the rebuilt alternator they sell is for an EZ30? Are there any physical external differences between the H4 and H6 alternators? I called a local rebuilder too...$100 labor plus parts to rebuild the original alternator. Is that fair?

Thanks!
 

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H6 are 3 wire alternators controlled by the ECU, H4 are missing the extra wire in the plug and not controlled by the ECU.

I have a DB in my H4 right now,

and would buy one from my H6 if need be.
or try to nab a nice low miles OEM mitsubishi USA one from a 2001-2004 H6 outback from a pick and pull. wreck,...

they use to be US made, now chinese. but at least its new. and built for the unique H6 car.
(presumably built with quality parts in a quality way....like a $1000 samsung TV, or a nice $700 cell phone.).

vs. used , half rebuilt,...half not rebuilt. like a parts store reman. rebuilds from the subaru dealer are not cheap. ...and sometimes fail too, but hopefully they know what a eZ30D car takes.

I would think a lot of subarus land in the junk yards just from bad alternators and bad replacement alternators.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info.

I just took the car for a drive, no lights on and the car is working fine. Is it normal for a Subie alternator to die slowly like this? I've had alternators die in other cars, but they would fail completely and not intermittently like this. I checked the output at the battery btw...14.35v while running (cold start) and 14.07v after the drive. I wonder how long it will last?
 

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Thanks for the info.

I just took the car for a drive, no lights on and the car is working fine. Is it normal for a Subie alternator to die slowly like this? I've had alternators die in other cars, but they would fail completely and not intermittently like this. I checked the output at the battery btw...14.35v while running (cold start) and 14.07v after the drive. I wonder how long it will last?
when I dumped the factory original in my H4 it would charge good randomly,... I was not actively monitoring and my first clue I had a problem was when I had to jump the battery in a supermarket parking lot. (had my jump pack with me).

I kept the car charged on the wall charger and would drive it around just within a 20 mile radius.

when I sat with the car on the driveway letting it idle trying to see how often it was charging with a simple multi meter, the alternator was only giving charge maybe 2 minutes in 20. had a pro mechanic give a opinion too.

I got the DB in the 2 days. (no core charge....as they sell new,, not rebuilds on these,...although your local rebuilder might buy parts from places like that)

in my case I swapped out the battery too as it was old by date, and a leaky to be keeping in a car, and the battery cables.
 

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Yeah, it's fairly normal for them to die a slow death.

I monitored mine while it was on it's last leg. It would show over 18 volts at times:surprise:, and under 10 volts at others.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, I decided not to tempt fate and ordered a new one from DB Electrical. I’ll hold on to the original too.


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01 Outback LL Bean
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I thought I had responded to this thread earlier...

Maniac electric motors sells the OE Misubishi alternator. They also sell rebuild kits.

When mine failed at 199k it would go in and out sometime working fine and sometimes turning on the alternator light and not charging.

I rebuilt mine, but the Mitsubishi version is pretty reasonably priced.

They also sell the engine side harness plug/pigtail if yours is broken.
 

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I thought I had responded to this thread earlier...

Maniac electric motors sells the OE Misubishi alternator. They also sell rebuild kits.

When mine failed at 199k it would go in and out sometime working fine and sometimes turning on the alternator light and not charging.

I rebuilt mine, but the Mitsubishi version is pretty reasonably priced.

They also sell the engine side harness plug/pigtail if yours is broken.
Has anyone verified that Maniac sells a made in Japan real Mitsubishi alternator? Their website leaves a lot to be desired.
 

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Has anyone verified that Maniac sells a made in Japan real Mitsubishi alternator? Their website leaves a lot to be desired.
mainic's website looks a lot like the DB website. kind of scrubbed as to "made in USA" notes.

I think the factory original one was actually made in USA..
(tag on it says "Mitsubishi USA" on it,...unless that means made somewhere else for cars assembled in the USA)????
 

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I have talked to them on the phone. They are knowledgeable and seem very legitimate. I highly doubt they are selling counterfeit Mitsubishi alternators or anything like that. I suspect most of their business is supplying alternator rebuild shops with parts.
 

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Guess I'll chime in, I actually just posted an alternator problem i resolved and saw yours. Make sure your charging light is coming on, I wasted a lot of time today and the bulb for the charging light wasn't illuminating. Typical electrical warnings and I never looked for the charge light (duh)

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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Guess I'll chime in, I actually just posted an alternator problem i resolved and saw yours. Make sure your charging light is coming on, I wasted a lot of time today and the bulb for the charging light wasn't illuminating. Typical electrical warnings and I never looked for the charge light (duh)

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Charging light? Do you mean the battery light on the instrument cluster? That only comes on when the alternator is acting up, correct?


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Charging light? Do you mean the battery light on the instrument cluster? That only comes on when the alternator is acting up, correct?


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Yeah, that light on the cluster. It's supposed to illuminate when you turn the key and go out after a few.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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Yeah, that light on the cluster. It's supposed to illuminate when you turn the key and go out after a few.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
That light and the brake light coming on and off intermittently is what led me to think the alternator is on it's way out. Plus, it's got 184k miles and 16 years of use in the PNW.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The alternator from DB Electrical is supposed to arrive tomorrow. I'll give that a whirl and if it doesn't work properly I'll get the OEM alternator from Maniac as others have suggested.
 

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When mine failed at 199k it would go in and out sometime working fine and sometimes turning on the alternator light and not charging.

I rebuilt mine.
Did the brushes look warn or probably regulator?

I assume that was fairly straight forward and easy to rebuild?

Maniac electric motors sells the OE Misubishi alternator. They also sell rebuild kits.

but the Mitsubishi version is pretty reasonably priced.
Where does it say that it's OE? That's hard to believe for $139 and the info looks ambiguous.
 

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When I worked on mine I bought their rebuild kit and a set of brushes. I was curious if it was a brush issue so I replaced the brushes and the bearings that came with the kit. Old bearings were pretty dry, brushes looked fine though, plenty of life in them. A few weeks later the alt light came on again. Second time around I swapped in the regulator/brush assembly that came with the rebuild kit.

The rebuild is straightforward but you need to do some soldering and the de-soldering of the rectifier bridge was a bit tedious if I recall.

The Mitsubishi alternator from them is difficult to find on their website and you need to search by the Mitsubishi part number: A3TB1891

It is $170. The cheaper one is a rebuilt.

100 AMP MITSUBISHI BRAND ALTERNATOR FOR 2001-2005 SUBARU OUTBACK 3.0L - NEW ALTERNATORS FOR MITSUBISHI / MANDO
 

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Regarding the rebuild, the bearings were a bit of work as well. I have a press and some bearing splitters but I remember I had some trouble with the front bearing. There is a metal plate behind the front bearing that is connected to the front half of the alternator housing. I originally removed the 4 screws so I could remove the front part of the assembly but then had a difficult time with the front bearing because I could not get a bearing slitter to fit. Ended up cutting the old inner race out I think.

Instead I should have left the screws in and then hammered or pressed the shaft using the alternator housing and metal plate as the splitter and it probably would have come right off. This assumes the main alternator screws holding the two halves of the housing are removed.

For the rear double bearing I was able to use a small bearing splitter and my press.
 
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