Subaru Outback Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of October's Outback of the Month Challenge!
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All!

I have owned a 2001 Subaru Legacy for about 5 months now and until recently it has ran great--probably the best used vehicle I've ever bought. I recently ran across a problem after my axle starting making some noise---and I wanted to see what you guys (and gals!) think about it. Heres what happened:

- One day the axle started making a noise that sounds like a fast clicking (it varies with wheel speed, not engine / transmission speed). It still drove fine so I kept driving it until I was in a position to be able to take it off the road to fix it (first mistake :mad:) I checked the wheel for movement and it has none, so I don't think its a wheel bearing.

- I had never had any problems with losing transmission / front diff fluid (its a manual transmission), so it was a surprise when one day my entire transmission dumped all of its fluid out onto the side of the highway.

- Once I got it towed back home I hopped underneath to take a look for where the fluid was coming from. Turns out the drain plug managed to work itself loose and by the time I found it it was barely on there still! :gasp: --But that seemed to be the only source of any fluid leak.

-When I removed the drain plug I found a small chunk of steel on the magnet of the plug, but that's it, no shavings--and nothing that i could feel sticking my finger up into the drain plug hole and feeling around.

- My problem now is that its looking like no one will rebuild a manual transmission--so my options are pretty much getting rid of the car as-is or dropping alot more than I would like to spend on fixing a transmission on a car with 130k miles.

Here is a link to pictures of the chunk compared to the drain plug. What are peoples thoughts? You think this car is safe to drive with new fluid and a tight plug? I drove it about 1500 miles once it started clicking with no adverse effects... and since the fluid leak doesn't seem to have anything to do with the clicking... I'm thinking why not? Thanks!

Richard

Photo Album - Imgur





My past experiences have involved working on domestic cars / trucks--so I am not that knowledgeable when it comes to Subaru.
 

·
Registered
06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
Joined
·
5,966 Posts
I'd put it together and then determine if the clicking is from inside the trans, or inside the front differential, or neither.

Everything in the trans spins 4x faster than the wheels, so a 1 per wheel revolution click will be the front diff or outside the diff/trans.

Are there separate plugs for the trans and diff on the manuals?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'd put it together and then determine if the clicking is from inside the trans, or inside the front differential, or neither.

Everything in the trans spins 4x faster than the wheels, so a 1 per wheel revolution click will be the front diff or outside the diff/trans.

Are there separate plugs for the trans and diff on the manuals?
I wasn't able to find more than one drainplug besides the engine oil and transmission. I put some lock tight in the plug, tightened everything back up and filled it with fluid. With just taking it around the block a couple times it seems as if the clicking has gone away. Now I'm pretty much left with a shard of metal and more questions then answers! When it was ticking it sounded ALOT like it was coming from outside the transmission. Both axles do have torn boots--but I haven't torn that area apart yet to investigate if that was my clicking sound. Thanks for the response.

Richard
 

·
Registered
Car: 2008 Tribeca, 2010 LGT, Sold: 2005 XT Limited
Joined
·
2,926 Posts
Ticking is of course classic outer CV joint issue. Try low speed hard left then hard right turns. Maybe your clicking will come back then. I only mention this because of the boots. Otherwise, keep driving until something bad happens to the transmission I suppose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ticking is of course classic outer CV joint issue. Try low speed hard left then hard right turns. Maybe your clicking will come back then. I only mention this because of the boots. Otherwise, keep driving until something bad happens to the transmission I suppose.
I actually just did exactly that, and going faster than 35mph. The ticking came back, and it still sounds like its outside of the transmission. I don't seem to be leaking any fluid again after letting it sit for a bit--so I guess thats good news!. Ill probably trailer it for a long trip tomorrow (I'm moving this week, so makes it hard to rip a car apart mid-way through), and just get rid of it as-is. I don't know how much a Subaru used or re-man transmission costs, but I'm sure its not pretty. Thanks!

Richard
 

·
Registered
06 OBW 2.5, 05 Forester, had 03 H6 OBW
Joined
·
5,966 Posts
How the heck does a piece of sheet metal get into the trans anyway?

Looks like a piece of a bracket to hold a seal, or a wire, or such.
 

·
Registered
Car: 2008 Tribeca, 2010 LGT, Sold: 2005 XT Limited
Joined
·
2,926 Posts
For Parts: Boot = $20/ea
OEM Reman = $150-200
New OEM = $300
New aftermarket = $80

Our local independent subaru specialist = $300 with OEM reman installed per side.

It was just looking in to this. I'm going to reboot due to issues with vibration with axle replacement. I'm not sure this is the best way, but it's they way I'm going :)

Of course its your car, but I won't worry about the ticking if it is outer CV. The usual advice for people that can't get it repaired is wait until it starts clicking while driving straight. Of course, you could get unlucky. It will seize up and burst in to pieces.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
For Parts: Boot = $20/ea
OEM Reman = $150-200
New OEM = $300
New aftermarket = $80

Our local independent subaru specialist = $300 with OEM reman installed per side.

It was just looking in to this. I'm going to reboot due to issues with vibration with axle replacement. I'm not sure this is the best way, but it's they way I'm going :)

Of course its your car, but I won't worry about the ticking if it is outer CV. The usual advice for people that can't get it repaired is wait until it starts clicking while driving straight. Of course, you could get unlucky. It will seize up and burst in to pieces.

I was referring to a re-man transmission (depending on where the chunk of metal came from lol), but either way it sounds like some work. And actually the clicking happens in a straight line at any speed--and it didn't develop into that, when it started it was pretty much there all the time under any condition. Hopefully it cools down enough where I can go outside without sweating half my weight, a cheap reboot VS rebuild sounds like a viable option to at least see if it reduces the amount of clicking. Thanks for the post!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How the heck does a piece of sheet metal get into the trans anyway?

Looks like a piece of a bracket to hold a seal, or a wire, or such.
Up close it looks almost like part of a shim that's been twisted and warped. It doesn't seem to be discolored from heat...just tore up! I don't know enough about transmissions to really make an educated guess. Could it be part of the gearing of the axle that goes into the front diff? The tranny / front diff share fluid, so I would assume they would share shards of busted off pieces. :confused:
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top