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01 VDC, 05 R Sedan, 06 BAJA EJ257
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IF the car has a dropping resistor,,, which it should given the way the system is designed, it is a small tan box mounted to the strut tower, right side. It has its own bracket and is mounted toward the top. Tan or silver in color. I have run in to shifting issues with the 4EAT due to this resistor. Not noises though.
 

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2001 Outback H6 4EAT | 1999 Impreza GF8 NA Dual Range 5MT
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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
sorry for not clarifying it at first.
its a LHD EUDM Outback H6 from end June 2001 (154 kw / 206 hp)
The wiring diagram is from the EUDM 2002 legacy/outback service manual (i know, they changed some fair bit of things from 2001 to 2002 but its the closest manual i could find for mine)
Subaru Factory Service Manuals (FSM) - Every Model - USDM/EU (Scroll past the chart and follow the media fire link at LEGACY BE/BH 2002)

I redid the test, but this time pin 16 was also connected.
When connecting pin 5 (line pressure solenoid), a quiet buzzing can be heard
With pin 9 (2-4B solenoid) the loud buzzing appeared
None of the pins resulted in the more obnoxious sound, which changed with the throttle position

Now the TCM DTC is throwing a 74 error (2-4 brake timing solenoid: open or shorted output signal)
I tried the clearing procedure as stated in my manual (pull fuse 4 in driver footwell, which on my car is the cigar lighter/power mirror fuse) didn't work.
Now I have the battery disconnected for the night. So the code should be gone till tomorrow (if not, than that might be a hot trace)

Regarding the ground connection I screwed a new cable (3 gauge for extra good measurement) to the transmission case and connected it directly to the battery negative terminal.
I will look tomorrow, if I can find the dropping resistor on my car.

Edit:
@plain OM
I just took a look at you chart. The color coding isn't the same as on the car and my wiring harness is directly going into the firewall. Tomorrow I will know for sure, if there is a dropping resistor
 

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01 VDC, 05 R Sedan, 06 BAJA EJ257
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Dropping resistor on right strut tower. This is a 02 USDM H6 4EAT MPT car. Outback LL Bean. The resistor is utilized in managing shifts.

16140388498701655495112745170062.jpg
 

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2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
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Mine is a US spec, US made: 2002 H6 VDC wagon, with a born on date of June 2001. (so like first of the 2002 out of the Indiana plant).

Eurospec 2001 made in Japan should be the same as a 2002 US spec. ...and "should" be able to get a read on a laptop or hand held for TCU.
 

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2001 Outback H6 4EAT | 1999 Impreza GF8 NA Dual Range 5MT
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Discussion Starter #25
Mine is a US spec, US made: 2002 H6 VDC wagon, with a born on date of June 2001. (so like first of the 2002 out of the Indiana plant).

Eurospec 2001 made in Japan should be the same as a 2002 US spec. ...and "should" be able to get a read on a laptop or hand held for TCU.
If fact I was able to get into the TCM with some testers (one beeing a $10.000 Hella tester) and read some values but none of them were able to show the trouble codes that the DTC was / is showing me.
Basically all the testers I tried weren't able to get more data / information than freessm
 

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If fact I was able to get into the TCM with some testers (one beeing a $10.000 Hella tester) and read some values but none of them were able to show the trouble codes that the DTC was / is showing me.
Basically all the testers I tried weren't able to get more data / information than freessm
I have not read mine in a while. Laptop I was using for that is on the outs physically.
Rom-Raider might work.

@idosubaru @Glennda5id @brucep any suggestions ?

to me, it really sounds like a relay buzzing.
 

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it's not North America.
Thanks, better to know that. It does appear that some models in other markets did not have the dropping resistors. The fundamentals in different markets are probably similar, if not identical, but we have to keep an open mind when citing specs, or even comparing sounds.

The buzzing in the current case might not be directly from one or more solenoids; as I think you suggested, it could be from a separate part, perhaps something loose, that's resonating (vibrating) with the nearby solenoids that are being pulsed by duty-cycle signals.

I have an idea of what the dropping resistor circuit does, but haven't figured out the logic for that. In any event, if the car doesn't have the resistors, it's not relevant.

I don't think any of the TCM PIDs will help. They only show the Duty Cycle %, not the frequency (Hz), and as long as the transmission is otherwise working properly, their not likely to help identify the source of the buzzing.

Are there transmission trouble codes present?

@eagleeye A relay buzzing is a possibility, but there's no relays in or near the transmission. In that case a mechanic's stethoscope should be used to better locate the source.
 

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@eagleeye
I had suggested earlier in the post that the noise is vibration. A solenoid can/will vibrate when current pulses through it, or if current flow necessary for the solenoid to operate as designed is lacking. Even a solenoid that is on/off, not pulsed, can get noisy when current flow is low. Not enough electricity to stabilize the magnetic field to hold the valve and the valve is vibrating. Shift issues may not be noticed because under operation the fluid flow is sufficient enough to operate the clutch or brake. The tolerance due to the soft shift programming in the TCM is such that the TCM will constantly adjust line pressure to offset any delay in shifting. This is it's adaptation profile. The downside is the clutches will burn out and the trans starts slipping to the point the TCM can no longer make adjustments and at that point it's rebuild time.

I also think that this may lead to a pan drop to physically check/replace the solenoids if the electrical systems, the battery & cables, are deemed good. The buzzing is due to an electrical fault. Somewhere the flow is being hampered.
 

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@eagleeye A relay buzzing is a possibility, but there's no relays in or near the transmission. In that case a mechanic's stethoscope should be used to better locate the source.
I was more at the idea that it is a sound similar to what a relay does.

and wondering if this is on the cusp of making some other tell. ... = such as sloppy shifting being a early sign of a
weak battery / weak battery wires / weak engine grounds

or as this is the EZ30D....alternator problem, and good luck finding the real Mitsubishi.
...although I would guess DB Electrical of Tennessee, and Maniac Electrical of Texas can and do ship their great new alternators to the European Union. (2 known to work with the finest H6 in the universe).
 

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A solenoid can/will vibrate when current pulses through it, or if current flow necessary for the solenoid to operate as designed is lacking.
Good point. Should be checking system voltage when in KOEO mode, and the grounds.

On the buzzing, I was thinking that when the engine is off, the solenoids and most, if not all, of the valve body is submerged in ATF. That should muffle the sound of a clicking solenoid. Perhaps the video recording isn't providing a good rendition.

In the video, the sound seems to be loudest and clearest starting around 50 seconds while in the vicinity of what looks to be the inhibitor switch. Time for something like a mechanic's stethosope to better locate the source area.


In regard to the earlier removal of connector B11 and measuring the voltages there, or connecting the pins one-by-one to the solenoids, I agree the solenoids ground returns are to the valve body and that should be grounded through the car.

However, the ground wire from the valve body through B11 pin 16 to TCM terminals A20 and C19 might be the ground for the TCM drive circuits. In other words, without that ground being complete from the TCM to the valve body, it's that part of the TCM that isn't being properly grounded, and that could be why there was the measured steady 12 V at each wire, even though there should have been duty cycle signals for at least two of the solenoids. The diagnostic pages include checking that specific ground wiring link.
 

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03 H6 OBW & 06 WRX Sportwagon
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any signs the car had aftermarket equipment? remote start or upgraded security or 'breathalyzer' , etc.?
 

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2003 Outback H6 Wagon VDC EUDM
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Very interesting thoughts around...

Just to be sure for my OB:
beside stereo no aftermarket equipment - groundings cleaned and redone - battery new - alternator new - TPS new - no dropping resistor - no DTC either RR and Freessm

Known electrical faults:
Inhibitor switch seems not to work -> means, I can get my key off the colum in every position of the AT and I can select all gears without the key!
According to to the repair manual one pin at the TPS doesn't show correct voltage when closed

Time for something like a mechanic's stethosope to better locate the source area
I did it and it's is definitely from the AT oil pan, you can also feal it...
 

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. . . it's is definitely from the AT oil pan, you can also feal it...
Are you sure that the oil pan isn't pushed up/dented anywhere?

The only source of a buzzing from that area that I can think of is a solenoid.

The solenoids hang down from the bottom of the valve body but normally neither the solenoids nor any other part of the heavy cast valve body itself is in contact with the oil pan.

504643


[ Source: youtube]6iFOCmdCrwE ]

Moreover, when the engine is off, the ATF drains down into the pan and the valve body is submerged in ATF so vibration of the pan is dampened by the ATF. If the buzzing is not only heard at the pan, but also felt on the pan sheet metal (but not as clearly elsewhere on the transmission case), then I would suspect that whatever is the source of the buzzing, which could well be a properly working solenoid, is somehow in direct physical contact with the oil pan, e.g., the pan is pushed up in that area, or something is hanging down from the valve body and contacting the pan.

Earlier I believe you mentioned the pan isn't dented; are you sure? There isn't much clearance between the bottom of the solenoids and the pan. A slightly bent up pan could be contacting a solenoid, and that would transfer the vibration of the solenoid, which would otherwise not be noticed, to the pan. The pan, being pressed sheet metal, would amplify the sound like a drum so the solenoid action is both heard, and felt.

It's not unusual (lots of cases reported in this forum) for the pan to be pushed up, either by having hit something underneath, or when removing the engine or transmission and using the pan as a support point.[/youtube]
 

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2001 Outback H6 4EAT | 1999 Impreza GF8 NA Dual Range 5MT
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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Just reconnected the battery
No DTC's anymore
Also no dropping resistor present
@1 Lucky Texan no added accessories. one of the cleanest harnesses I have ever seen on a subaru

What I can tell is, that the oil pan has been opened up one for sure. They used rtv to seal the pan. By looking at the video, there really isn't much space in between the valve body and the pan. Last time it was on the hoist, I didn't notice any obvious dents, but now I will take a closer look. There also might be a good change, that they forgot to put the ground wire back in place

What I noticed while driving is, that there is a shock when you shift into reverse and slippage while shifting form 2nd into 3rd.

Here is the video, where the 2-4B solenoid (and TCM ground) is connected (www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMINqd8U2lo):
 

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No DTC's anymore
When the battery is disconnected, any previously-saved DTCs are erased. If there is still an actual fault, it might not show up as a DTC right away; it might take several drive cycles before the on-board diagnostics confirms that a fault exists and only then is the check engine light turned on.

Subaru uses RTV to seal the oil pan, so the fact that there is some visible RTV doesn't necessarily mean the pan had been off before.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
When the battery is disconnected, any previously-saved DTCs are erased. If there is still an actual fault, it might not show up as a DTC right away; it might take several drive cycles before the on-board diagnostics confirms that a fault exists and only then is the check engine light turned on.

Subaru uses RTV to seal the oil pan, so the fact that there is some visible RTV doesn't necessarily mean the pan had been off before.
I was expecting to get code 74 (open circuit 2-4B soleniod). If there actually was an open circuit, shouldn't the error show up right away?

Good to know. But nevertheless the rtv seemed fairly new (definitely not 20 years old)
 

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I was expecting to get code 74 (open circuit 2-4B soleniod). If there actually was an open circuit, shouldn't the error show up right away?

Good to know. But nevertheless the rtv seemed fairly new (definitely not 20 years old)
Didn't know about Subaru using RTV from the factory

Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk
 

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@plain OM : Nope definitely not dented!

With feeling the buzz is ment a very light but definable source (even less than a fuel pump). Audible and touchable location is from the oil pan.

you can see and hear it in this post:
During playing with the car scanner app, I realized some strange noises:

When ignition is on and but her in gear, there is a hearable noise coming from the AT-oilpan.
When I touch the accelerator pedal its tremendously louder

here is a video:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="
" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

What special feature is this? I didn't have it on my 2.5L Legacy....
first noise is ignition on and in gear - then (at gaspedal 0:13) - it's louder

I'll try to make videos tomorrow ...
 

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Discussion Starter #39
@Deberius that is exactly the same sound I get from mine.
And you say, that it only happens when you are in a certain gear / transmission mode (power on)?
 

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@Hayk301 @Deberius

On my 07 4AT, there is no noticeable buzzing from the transmission pan area with the ignition at ON, engine OFF and in P or N.

However, when in R or D, there is a definite, course sounding, buzzing.

I believe the buzzing when in R or D is normal.

It was my understanding that your recordings were made when in P or N, but it appears some might have been made with the transmission in R or D. If the concern is the buzzing in R or D, and there's no buzzing in P or N, I don't think there's a problem to be found!
 
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