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01 OBW 2.5L Saphire Pearl(sold), 01 Ford Excursion, 1975 Honda CL360
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249 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Over the weekend I changed my timing belt, water pump, and valve cover gaskets. I took a few pics along the way. You can get the entire kit with the water pump belt and pulleys here and a set of valve cover gaskets here for pretty cheap. Here it goes . . .

Step 1 disable the ignition by pulling this plug:


like this:


Step 2 set parking brake and put vehicle in neutral




Step 3 disable fuel pump by pulling the fuse:
top left fuse in the panel under the dash



Step 4 remove spark plug wires and spark plugs




Step 5 remove washer fluid reservoir


undo front and rear pump connectors



and set on top of fuse box


Step 6 remove and inspect drive belts


Step 7 remove a/c tensioner adjuster

like this


Step 8 I used a compression tester to find TDC on cyl. 1

Step 9 remove valve cover bolts

don't forget this one


Step 10 use a small screw driver to gently crack open the valve cover


Step 11 replace spark plug tube grommets

with new ones
 

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01 OBW 2.5L Saphire Pearl(sold), 01 Ford Excursion, 1975 Honda CL360
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249 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Shiny new valve cover bolt grommets


I used this valve cover gasket set from Advance Auto Parts


Step 12 onto the other side undo the oil filler neck

and the other bolt is just above the cyl. 2 spark plug tube

make sure you clean the inside of the valve cover and replace the cover gasket


Step 13 reinstall both valve covers making sure not to reinstall that one bolt on the RIGHT side (left side facing) that also doubles as a timing cover bolt.

Step 14 remove the electric fans and coolant overflow reservoir


the electrical connector is down on the bottom

and when that is done it should look like this


Step 15 block the engine from turning w/ a big screw driver (found that tip right here on subaruoutback.org)



Step 16 using a 22mm 1/2 drive socket (I broke my 3/8 breaker bar and had to go purchase a 1/2 socket) remove the crank pulley bolt

then remove the crankshaft pulley


Step 17 remove the timing cover bolts (I took a pic of the book b/c i didn't want to waste a lot of pics one for each bolt)

then remove the LEFT (right side facing) timing cover

and then the RIGHT (left side facing) timing cover, which is the bigger of the two


Step 18 line up the timing marks
LEFT

CENTER

RIGHT
 
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Registered
01 OBW 2.5L Saphire Pearl(sold), 01 Ford Excursion, 1975 Honda CL360
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249 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Step 19 remove idler pulley


Step 20 remove idler gear


Step 21 remove timing belt

Step 22 remove crank sprocket


Step 23 remove timing belt tensioner


Step 24 remove water pump

like that


Step 25 install new thermostat and water outlet onto new water pump
new thermostat and gasket

thermostat in place

water outlet installed

new gasket, remember to use gasket sealant


Step 26 reinstall water pump


Step 27 compress the timing belt tensioner, I used a big c- clamp. MAKE SURE YOU DO IT SLOWLY!!!!!


Step 28 reinstall timing belt tensioner, make sure you use a strong enough pin to hold the tensioner compressed, I tried a couple different things and finally used a small hex key.


Step 29 install new timing belt, be sure to carefully line up the timing marks


Step 30 install timing idler gear and timing idler pulley, then release the tensioner

Step 31 reinstall timing belt cover and crank pulley



Step 32 reinstall a/c tensioner pulley

Step 33 reinstall drive belts

Step 34 reinstall electric fans

Step 35 refill the cooling system, make sure you've reattached any hoses removed during the process.

Step 36 reinstall spark plugs and wires

Step 37 replace the washer fluid reservoir

Step 38 plug the ignition coil back in

Step 39 Plug the fuel pump fuse back in

Step 40 Start it up and enjoy
 

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Premium Member
2004 Outback Wagon, Mystic Blue Pearl
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4,939 Posts
Absolutely awesome. This board has needed a good thorough Timing Belt DIY, and this one is great. Thanks.
 

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Brucey
'17 3.6
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13,496 Posts
Looks awesome! My only suggestion is to make it so all the pictures show up, you'd have to use more posts.

I think the current limit is 35 images per posts.
 

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00 OB 07 OBXT
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5,525 Posts
Nice write up.

On the tensioner [for those using this as a guide], make sure you compress it very slowly. Hex [allen] wrench works, so does the solid side of a drill bit ... don't use soft metal like copper, brass or aluminum ... it will bind up and you will have a hard time pulling it out.
 

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01 OBW 2.5L Saphire Pearl(sold), 01 Ford Excursion, 1975 Honda CL360
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249 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Brucey, when I re did the post I stopped @ 20 image links per page. There aren't any pics for step 32 to 40.
ETC: I meant to make that note, edited it in.
Rockhopjohn: Thanks, since I couldn't find one to guide myself I decided it would be a valuable contribution. I also did my front and rear struts, mounts all the way around, and new front springs, but there was already enough info on those so I didn't bother taking pics.
 

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2014 2.5i Limited
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950 Posts
So, thanks for the DIY...How many miles did you have on that belt?
 

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01 OBW 2.5L Saphire Pearl(sold), 01 Ford Excursion, 1975 Honda CL360
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249 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So, thanks for the DIY...How many miles did you have on that belt?
approx. 108000, it's been time to start doing a few things to my outback lately . . . while under it just the other day trying to find a mysterious ATF leak (it doesn't leak on the ground, but the fluid gets low every couple hundred miles) I discovered I have a torn cv boot on the pass side inner. In the last year I've done struts and mounts all the way around, new front springs too, pads and rotors all 4, timing belt and h2o pump, and a couple oil and transmission fluid changes, plus switch both front and rear diff to synthetic.
 

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2001 OB 2.5L Basic
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224 Posts
approx. 108000, it's been time to start doing a few things to my outback lately . . . while under it just the other day trying to find a mysterious ATF leak (it doesn't leak on the ground, but the fluid gets low every couple hundred miles) I discovered I have a torn cv boot on the pass side inner. In the last year I've done struts and mounts all the way around, new front springs too, pads and rotors all 4, timing belt and h2o pump, and a couple oil and transmission fluid changes, plus switch both front and rear diff to synthetic.
..I have to do my belts in the near future and was wondering if your idlers sounded like this in the video and if you plan on going another 100K/mi or to just shorten the timing belt usage to maybe 60K/mi.. Subaru Repair Seattle: Timing Belt Idlers Explained - Seattle Subaru Repair ..
 

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01 OBW 2.5L Saphire Pearl(sold), 01 Ford Excursion, 1975 Honda CL360
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249 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I hate to say that I'm anticipating a head gasket job in the future, but I wouldn't be surprised if I have to replace all of it all over again. Next time all the seals, idlers and other bits will get replaced, but it was going to be 2x the price to do all of that, and I was working @ an auto parts store and getting an employee discount on all of those parts at that time. I'd absolutely love to do a complete rebuild. Port and polish the heads and a more aggressive cam . . . . but I haven't won the lottery and can't spend the money on the lottery tickets for that matter, nor am I working @ the parts store anymore, so parts will cost more than they did before.
 

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Hello. Does anyone know if a 2001 sohc 2.5 and a 2004 sohc 2.5 cam gear have the same timing marks on them in the same location. I currently did a engine swap from a 2001 that had an engine noise to a 2004 and I am having a problem where it is not starting. It has fuel spark compression and the timing is in the right spot but it is not starting. I have read that the gears might be different. On my 2001 I see little tabs or bumps on the back side of the gear assuming those are the tabs for the cam sensor to read off of. From the key way hole on the pulley going clockwise it goes 3 tabs 1 tab 2 tabs 1 tab. does anyone know if an 04 has them in the same spot.
 

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2001 OB 2.5L Basic
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224 Posts
Hello. Does anyone know if a 2001 sohc 2.5 and a 2004 sohc 2.5 cam gear have the same timing marks on them in the same location. I currently did a engine swap from a 2001 that had an engine noise to a 2004 and I am having a problem where it is not starting. It has fuel spark compression and the timing is in the right spot but it is not starting. I have read that the gears might be different. On my 2001 I see little tabs or bumps on the back side of the gear assuming those are the tabs for the cam sensor to read off of. From the key way hole on the pulley going clockwise it goes 3 tabs 1 tab 2 tabs 1 tab. does anyone know if an 04 has them in the same spot.
..as far as I can tell, there are differences between the automatic/manual tranny "crankshaft" pulleys within the 2000-2004 yr 2.5L...(info is only given for the automatic).. the same applies to the camshaft pulleys...2000-2004 have the same pulley..."but"..for yr 2004 there was a change to the pulley(s) in the month of febuary..in other words 2 different crank/camshaft pulleys for the 2004 (vin # helps here)...there might be some differences also between the auto and manual tranny plus there is a good possibility other differences might exist..good luck figureing it out...the following should help to clarify the situation a little... http://subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?subcat=Engine+Parts,+Cam+Sprocket&model=Outback and http://subarupartsforyou.com/cp_par...ts,+T+Belt+Pulleys+&+Tensioners&model=Outback...as a side note make sure that the coolant temp "sensor" (not sender) is hooked up properly..hardly ever happens, but I had mine fail on me..it became a "no" start situation..
 

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Brucey
'17 3.6
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13,496 Posts
For anyone thinking of doing this soon, Wal-mart sells the Prestone 50/50 premix for 8.50 right now, and there is a 5$ rebate (7 for the regular coolant) for it. 7$ after rebates for the entire coolant system sounds ok to me!
 

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2002 Subaru Outback 108,000 miles
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10 Posts
TIMING BELT REPLACEMENT:2002 outback wagon 2.5 engine type: Ej251axbwl

Hello does anyone have timing belt replacement instructions with pictorials for an 2002 outback wagon 2.5 engine type: Ej251axbwl, model:bh9cy4r, vin:4s3bh665527641758 automatic. Also, in addition to the timing belt, what other parts should be changed?
Thank you,
gary
 

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00 OB 07 OBXT
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5,525 Posts
This is it ... I haven't seen a more complete walkthrough on the internet with more pictures than this. In other words, if you can't do it with this ... you should take it to a shop.

As to what else to replace ... It's up to you. Replace any leaking seals [cam, crankshaft], water pump, reseal oil pump, idler pulleys, tensioner, valve covers if they need it or if you want to go on the "safe" side. Plugs, valve cover gaskets, pcv valve, all normal tuneup items.

essentially a SOHC ej25 will be the same as this one.
 

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77 Posts
reply to bring it ttt

see my recent posts on my half-completed timing job.

Started it planning to do all the rotating parts, but didn't plan on having to do the valve cover gaskets...until removing the plugs found in an oil bath.

2003 2.5L 105K miles. It needed a tensioner, external belts, crankshaft seal, lower hose clamps, and the three idlers replaced FOR SURE. I replaced the hoses (3) and clamps, spark plugs, thermostat, waterpump. I'm on the fence whether to do the cam seals and re-seal the oil pump. They seem fine but I got the parts so I might do it.

I had an issue with getting the right crank oil seal. And the thermostat I got in the kit, is not OEM quality, like the rest of the stuff in the kit.

My headgaskets are holding antifreeze just fine, but weep a little oil. I guess I can deal with the oil leaks for now. Pulling the motor OR doing an in-car headgasket job just doesn't sound like fun right now.

I need to find a thread on adjusting valves on the SOHC engine...since they are there.

Joe
 

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I wrote quite a bit in this thread:

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...7-2001-timing-belt-maintenance-prep-tips.html

Check your valve clearance. It ain't hard.

On the driver's side valve cover...before putting the bolts in and snugging them down, make sure you have attached the oil fill tube first. You cant install the oil fill tube bolts when the valve cover is installed fully. I learned the hard way.

Joe
 

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If the water pump "goes" you WILL want to replace the timing belt at that time as well. If it just leaks, the antifreeze will soften the rubber of the belt. If the pump locks up, it will destroy the belt. The timing belt runs the waterpump--so yes if you need to replace the pump, you have already disassembled the timing belt "system".
 
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