a good inexpensive solution is a used set of heads bolted to your block. known good block with new headgaskets is a nice hit.
2002 H6 - no compression!
Hey guys. I'm hoping you can help me out. I have a 2002 LL Bean with the H6 engine. Went to start it this morning and it just cranked over fast, no start. If you've ever heard an engine trying to start with a broken timing belt, that is what it sounds like. I verified fuel, then spark and both are good. Plugged in my compression tester to the RH middle cylinder and I get zero compression. I don't even want to bother checking the other cylinders because they are such a PITA to get to and I'm fairly certain they all have zero compression also. So what the heck happened here?!? It has about 160k on it and car was running great last night.
My next thought is to pull the timing cover and start checking it out. I'm guessing I have a broken timing chain or stripped timing cog.
Does anyone know where I can find a guide on pulling the cover? I assume I just need to pull the radiator and then I can get at everything?
My next thought is to pull the timing cover and start checking it out. I'm guessing I have a broken timing chain or stripped timing cog.
Does anyone know where I can find a guide on pulling the cover? I assume I just need to pull the radiator and then I can get at everything?
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Drivers seat
5 6
3 4
1 2
Front of car
1 is front passengers side, 2 is front drivers side.
1, 3, 5 on passengers side front to back. 2, 4, 6 drivers side front to back.
5 6
3 4
1 2
Front of car
1 is front passengers side, 2 is front drivers side.
1, 3, 5 on passengers side front to back. 2, 4, 6 drivers side front to back.
This is very bizarre, will be following along hopefully.
Any repair history at all?
although you should just be able to turn the crank by hand and see all the cams moving.
Any repair history at all?
bump the starter just for a second. it'll get oily but some proper cardboard will take care of that. i've bumped, and even ran for a second, an engine with exposed valve train, it's just a little messy. It's just like a timing belt except some of the oil won't get captured so to speak...Anybody know of an easy way to check if the cams are turning without taking the timing cover off? Maybe my scanner can read the cam sensor, but I doubt it, I only have a basic one.
although you should just be able to turn the crank by hand and see all the cams moving.
I'm wondering if for certain you're getting good sealing of the compression gauge...maybe there is compression the tester just isn't seating fully?
If you remove the valve covers that gives you more clearance to access the plug holes.
If you remove the valve covers that gives you more clearance to access the plug holes.
dude that's crazy. nice job figuring it out.
that being said - i've actually seen a lot of Subaru EJ heads that leak some small amount. when filled with fluid, they leak some out, even on engines that ran fine.....so some bit of "hanging" happens, but at the kind of RPM's, insanely short durations, and pressures they have I guess it's not noticeable until a certain threshhold...which i suppose you reached.
very interesting, thanks for sharing.
that being said - i've actually seen a lot of Subaru EJ heads that leak some small amount. when filled with fluid, they leak some out, even on engines that ran fine.....so some bit of "hanging" happens, but at the kind of RPM's, insanely short durations, and pressures they have I guess it's not noticeable until a certain threshhold...which i suppose you reached.
very interesting, thanks for sharing.
head jobs get expensive quick. you can generally get a price, it's semi-standard, enough that you can get an estimate online or over the phone. shops i've used always have a "per valve" price for lapping....24 valves times $10 each is $240 for instance.
lapping valves, new valve stem seals, and adjusting the valves.
you can resurface the heads yourself if you want. it's actually really easy, fantastic write up on USMB about it. search "apocalyptic head resurface" or something and it comes up. of course that's generally not that expensive anyway. i do it because the closest shops to me are really far away and inconvenient. now that i've done a few it's unbelievably simple. if you pulled a motor you can resurface your heads in a couple minutes easily.
$50 clean, $250 for lapping valves, valve stem seals, resurface, they'll want to pressure test but i'd decline that myself.....pushing $500 in machine shop work unless you have unusually cheap prices.
lapping valves, new valve stem seals, and adjusting the valves.
you can resurface the heads yourself if you want. it's actually really easy, fantastic write up on USMB about it. search "apocalyptic head resurface" or something and it comes up. of course that's generally not that expensive anyway. i do it because the closest shops to me are really far away and inconvenient. now that i've done a few it's unbelievably simple. if you pulled a motor you can resurface your heads in a couple minutes easily.
$50 clean, $250 for lapping valves, valve stem seals, resurface, they'll want to pressure test but i'd decline that myself.....pushing $500 in machine shop work unless you have unusually cheap prices.
1 - 6 of 60 Posts
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