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Banned
2002 llbean subaru h6
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12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm planning to travel around the country in this wagon, or at least as far and wide as it will go!

Recently purchased one for 4 .7 G with 140000 miles (idk if its good or bad, but the car looks good and ran grate...till i pushed it at Fort Steves beech and broke the radiator...i think....the replacment is coming in tommorow, ill see how it does)

The car performed splendidly stock altho little low on clearance,
So there's that,
Anyone know good parts to buy for a lift, and any instruction manuals on how to do so
(Also subframe, how?how Do i do it without dropping the drive train?)

Also I almost drowned the engine,
(Fort steves beach Low tied and pools...waist high watter, got into the filter but not far past, was able to dry it out) so I will probably be installing a snorkel
(Not paying 500 for a pice of plastic tho, so any sugestiouns?)

But my main concern is how to cut a hole without screwing up the body and the paint,

And finally a brush guard with a winch,

I might be able to get my girlfriend's Grandpa to fabricate something at his work, out of a piece of sheet metal,
But as far as where to Anchor it...
I got no clue...
 

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Registered
OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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12,385 Posts
1. make sure you don't have blown headgaskets, you have classic initial narrative story lines for blown H6 headgaskets....recently acquired from what I'd guess is a used car dealer and it overheated....those are very very not good signs.

2. get a lift from SJR, that's where i get mine because I like Scott.
Home

you can generally do a 2" lift without any dropping for a daily driver and mild use. if you're wheeling it yeah you may need to drop it 1-2" depending what else you do/etc.

bigger than that you have to drop it to match

you can get a mild lift with different springs and spacers but i prefer something more portable and permanent if i'm going strictly for a lift.

if you want increased load carrying capacity and maybe slightly stiffer springs - you can gain a half inch or more depending what you do with stiffer springs. baja turbo springs are an easy slight "upgrade" in these terms, but very mild.
 

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Banned
2002 llbean subaru h6
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12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It drove 1000 miles after I bought it, I took it out on the beach twice, and then it started overheating when I went up to Mount Hood,
But not majorly I made it home alright and got a coolant flush from Jiffy Lube, (took forever and charged up the ass)
Went to the beach again,

Then we were going on a trip when the car started overheating bad this time,
I barely made it to the gas station, and it took two jugs of coolant to fill it up,

10 minutes later overheating and had to get one and a half jugs of coolant-antifreeze, this tiome AutoZone brand, and that held for about an hour for some reason,
( though the card did get pretty hot during the process and I'm extremely afraid to have warped something, there is an odd noice at like 1100-1200 rpm)

But no milk shake oil or fuems in the coolant,
No smoke out the tailpipe,

The top radiator hose was leaking, as i tryed to take it off the plastick inside the hose disinigrated,

Ordered both replacments, wating to see hoping yeah, ether way i got a daily,
i woldnt want to worck on a 30000 dollar car, not to mentioun i got 2002 because i can work on all of it without needing much help,

I just need to know what parts are good and compatible,

Or the conectioun points, shapes, ext
If i need to fabricate somthing myself,


I have heard of the turbos (tho idk what turbo has to do with suspension, and i got no clue where to get them,)
I like the mild lift, something so I don't bring quiet as much hay with me from the field, maybe help me get around the occasional Rock,


And finally, about the Rocks where would be the best place to connect a piece of metal to protect all the innards,

And is it even possible to put a winch on the front of this car?
 

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Premium Member
(formerly) 03 H6 OBW , (presently) 06 WRX Sportwagon & 2021 Honda CR-V
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18,644 Posts
I think Primitive racing has skid plates, Subaru used to offer rear diff protectors, maybe primitive has those too?

If you don't have a blown HG now, you will soon with all the overheat events. A chemical block test might be good to try next time it overheats.

if you get in deep enough water and don't have a manual fan cut-off, the blades can hit the water and be forced forward into the radiator.

put a small clamp or 2 small zipties on the little overflow tube at the radiator's neck. Cut the other end of the tube at a 45* angle so it can't get blocked at the bottom of the o'flow tank. You can tank the tank out and put some ice cubes in it, shake like crazy, to clean it out. Make certain the car has an OEM-style thermostat, it matters.



you might consider signing-up over at ultimatesubaru.org as well, lots of older soobs there , some off-road.
 

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Registered
OBW H6 VDC, Tribeca, XT6
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12,385 Posts
if you have any warranty or relationship with the place you bought it from - that expedites the value in attending to this now.

the H6's don't mix oil and water nor blow smoke out the tail pipe, so you're looking for the wrong symptoms. those and compression aren't even worth checking as these engines never fail those tests.

random overheating is the first symptom on those engines, as you're describing. they progressively get worse over time, sometimes long periods of time, like a year. and they also cause hose ruptures and radiator fractures due to excessive heat, heat cycling, and pressures. so it's just as possible that overheating caused the hose/radiator issues rather than the hose causing the initial overheating.

this all often happens right after purchase - because the overheating is why the previous owner got rid of it. and the randomness of the overheats makes it easy for a dealer to never see it before they sell it, and to test drive it with no issues.

but of course i hope that's not the case, i'd rather see you lift it than play with engine issues.

performance models typically get performance suspension - so the baja turbo (performance engine) got stiffer springs (performance suspension). you order them from Subaru, lots of discussions on here about it and the part numbers needed.
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
Joined
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27,104 Posts
Snorkel:

type this in a regular google search box,

or a google image search box. (some are typical Jeep ones that have been modded a little).

snorkel site:subaruoutback.org
 

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Banned
2002 llbean subaru h6
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12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So the 28th was my birthday, had tons of fun but most importantly replace the radiator,
Put in an after-market Fail-Safe thermometer on there as well,
Did the block test on the coolant, and it did not turn yellow,
again the block test showed there is no blown head,
I heard these H6 is behave differently when they blow a gasket, or I heard that they do not suffer from the same gasket problems,
Which is it and how should I test for a blown head gasket( I already did the block test so)

The radiator internally was filthy,
I also heard Subaru recommends coolant conditioner
Where can i get that?

Other then that all good,
 

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Registered
Silver: 2009 Subaru Outback Limited Edition, 2.5 Liter EJ25, Automatic. Gem: 2002 Subaru Outback LL Bean Edition, 3.0 liter EZ30D, Automatic
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207 Posts
Hello and Happy Birthday! I am not a mechanic (yet, it is fascinating) but I did recently go through head gasket failure and replacement on my 2002 H6. The symptoms with this engine were completely different than anything I had experienced before with bad head gaskets. In other cars the first symptom was very rough running, leading to antifreeze going into oil, etc.

It is nothing like that with a Subaru H6. The H6 ran smoothly and powerfully before, during and after the head gasket crisis. The only initial symptom was infrequent and random overheating. The radiator fluid looked disgusting. It was a rust-colored brown and as I understand, even fresh coolant can be made to look like that way fairly quickly if there is a head gasket leak as it pushes monoxide and other gasses from the engine into the radiator. One of my top, large radiator hoses was noticed to be inflating when the car was started. It looked unusually plump and was very turgid. When the car would overheat, the radiator overflow bottle would fill up to the top and sometimes push its way out. Most of the time the car's operation was normal. I realized, after the head gasket had been diagnosed, that if I didn't know the car so well I could test drive it and not know it had a head gasket problem.

Like you, my first thought was the radiator! I went to have it flushed at a local garage and they got spooked by the fat hose when they started it up and decided to do two block tests instead. Amazingly the car passed both block tests, indicating no head gasket failure.

I had a block test done at the local dealership and the head gasket leak was immediately detected. I'm not sure what, exactly this says about block tests. The condition of the coolant, if caused by the gasses, surely should have been well saturated by then.

In hindsight, things I would have done differently: Had my coolant flushed long ago and used only the Subaru coolant which you can get from any Subaru dealership. It doesn't look like the neon lime green coolant, it's deep emerald green and it seems to have a somewhat heavier, texture or viscosity, whatever the right word is for it.

I have this now and it's what I'll keep using. I have no way of knowing what kind of coolant cocktail was mixed into the car when I got it. If you're going with a new radiator and everything it might be good to go with the coolant flavor that these cars like, also, if using the conditioner it's the coolant that it's supposed to mix with. I wanted to get the conditioner to start my new head gasket off with and the local dealership that replaced the head gaskets didn't seem to know what I was talking about.

I'm wondering how to get it as well, must be some item number that goes with it so it can be ordered through the parts department, but I haven't discovered what it is yet.

In the mean time, watch the temperature gauge carefully! You might want to start planning for head gasket replacement or engine replacement as many here recommend. It doesn't hurt to plan for the worse case scenario with older Subarus earlier rather than later. I like your enthusiasm and wish you the very best with your car.
 

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On the Super Mod Squad
2002 3.0 VDC Wag + 2018 2.5 Leg Ltd
Joined
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27,104 Posts
So the 28th was my birthday, had tons of fun but most importantly replace the radiator,
Put in an after-market Fail-Safe thermometer on there as well,
Did the block test on the coolant, and it did not turn yellow,
again the block test showed there is no blown head,
I heard these H6 is behave differently when they blow a gasket, or I heard that they do not suffer from the same gasket problems,
Which is it and how should I test for a blown head gasket( I already did the block test so)

The radiator internally was filthy,
I also heard Subaru recommends coolant conditioner
Where can i get that?

Other then that all good,

1st. DO NOT USE a aftermarket thermostat or rad cap in this car, regardless of what radiator is in it.
(I never heard of a fail safe thermostat / thermometer ???).

buy a new OEM thermostat, a OEM new rad cap, and a bottle of coolant conditioner. (all from a real subaru dealer, ...plenty of them on amazon even if you are not next door to one). all that maybe like $40.


mix the coolant conditoner into the rad fluid pulled from the open rad, and put it back into the radiator, not into the overflow bottle.
(its only 4.4 oz, vs. the 2 gallons of rad mix)

EZ30D cars typically blow exhaust gas into the overflow bottle when and if they have a head gasket leak....quick economical fix is a JDM used engine. (as little as $700),...and you can search that up on here. (more EZ30D people on here then anywhere in the known universe).
 
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