[medmunds]

I have exhaust gas in the cooling system, the reservoir doesn't recycle back into the radiator and since I continually need to add fluid I'm just using water. I only drive when necessary, stopping to let the engine cool and add water as needed.

Since I need to continue in this mode for the near future, would it be ok to remove the thermostat allowing for freer flow of the water? Thoughts?

 

[CNY_Dave]

I'm not sure it will improve anything.
Now if you put an extension on the filler neck and moved the cap up away from the fluid, you'd likely lose no fluid as the gas vented.
Wanted to play around with that on mine but the rest of the car was too beat to make extending its life worthwhile.

 

[eagleeye]

I see a JDM used 212hp engine in your near future. (typically marked as 1999-2002 the years they were used in japan).
@Glennda5id might recommend one of the places near the LA port, vs. the criminals on EBay.

 

[1 Lucky Texan]

is fluid being pushed into the overflow?

maybe you have a bad rad cap and are gradually filling the o'flow due to not pulling coolant back in?

I even putt 2 tiny zip-ties on my o'flow tube at the rad neck because it fit loosely after getting old/inflexible.

otherwise, yeah, maybe try with the cap on loosely ?

 

[Glennda5id]

I have exhaust gas in the cooling system, the reservoir doesn't recycle back into the radiator and since I continually need to add fluid I'm just using water. I only drive when necessary, stopping to let the engine cool and add water as needed.

Since I need to continue in this mode for the near future, would it be ok to remove the thermostat allowing for freer flow of the water? Thoughts?

I'm not sure if the thermostat hose housing will seal up without the thermostat which holds the gasket in place. You could maybe separate the thermostat ie kind of drill it out and leave the outer frame.

 

[medmunds]

Definitely rad is pushing into the overflow tank and not sucking back when it cools....cap seems good.

 

[medmunds]

I was wondering about that, whether I could take the rubber seal off the stat and have it seat in place while bolting down the housing.....like your idea of permanently opening the stat itself.

Eagleeye thought you might have a JDM recommendation around the L.A. Port....possible?

Thanks,
Merritt

 

[eagleeye]

I was wondering about that, whether I could take the rubber seal off the stat and have it seat in place while bolting down the housing.....like your idea of permanently opening the stat itself.

Eagleeye thought you might have a JDM recommendation around the L.A. Port....possible?

Thanks,
Merritt

I am a east coaster,...so would be out to buy from the port on NY / NJ. and drive to get it.

@Glennda5id just bought one from the port of LA though.

the places are all basically the same selling 60,000 mile EZ30Ds,... the trick is finding one that will sell it to you cheap by the bottom line. (so like $600 or $700 plus delivery if needs be). One member here once drove to NYC from Baltimore in a 99 camry sedan to get a EZ30D,....just drove home with the trunk lid tied shut.

do not get one with a plastic intake ... those are the later 245-250 hp variety (EZ30D= EZ30R in some listings),
...not much faster in torque, and need a whole lot more from a 2005-2009 US spec car. (sold in Japan as early as 2003).

beware JDM sales people may know nothing of subarus or the products they sell based on some postings here.

______

If you were out to get it delivered,... and maybe avoid some state sales tax. (edit: original cost, plus sales tax, plus delivery, = your bottom line, )

@Steven Peterson had good luck and source in Phoenix.
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums...51-woes-post-jdm-engine-swap.html#post5030513

 

[ghosttrain2]

Just went through this on my LL Bean, and replaced the engine with a JDM EZ30. The only way to go!!

 

[medmunds]

Eagleeye,
Thanks for your info. I thought I was sending a reply @Glennda5id asking about LA port JDM source but it seems I don't have enough posts yet to private message.
I did check inventory @Steven Peterson's Arizona source but no EZ30D motors in stock.
I'm not equipped physically or skillwise to swap motors so looking for someone reasonable in SF Bay Area. I do minor wrenching on my Subie but no place to do a motor swap.

Thanks,
Merritt

 

[Glennda5id]

Given that you are in the Bay Area I would try to source one up there. The shop might even install it. Call around. A quick google search showed Jdm Engine Bay Inc. Give them a call.

 

[medmunds]

@eagleeye

Thanks for merging the threads, I really don't know very well how to work the Forum posts.

"300 lbs. of aluminum for scrap" - Does overheating and oil/water mix automatically disqualify value for rebuilding? Must be some valuable parts - A/C system, alternator, etc.
Heads, maybe not. Anyone need stuff?

 

[eagleeye]

Thanks for merging the threads, I really don't know very well how to work the Forum posts.

"300 lbs. of aluminum for scrap" - Does overheating and oil/water mix automatically disqualify value for rebuilding? Must be some valuable parts - A/C system, alternator, etc.
Heads, maybe not. Anyone need stuff?

some Ez30D are worth doing the long hard head gasket job on, but not all. (its not easy and fast like a EJ251 of the same era)

and not a whole lot of problems with this engine, as it has timing chains, so no takers for individual heads.

the lesser things around the pair of engines when yours is next to the JDM they can pick the better of the 2.

_____

I would think they are going to put new NGK double platinum plugs in, if you don't have a set in the old engine,

and buy new valve cover gaskets (as the JDM may have been sitting for 10 years,....and any EZ30D even USDM 2002 probably could use a set,...= just rubber things).

valve cover gaskets / plug tube seals, and spark plugs are easy to do when the engine is out of the car.

 

[Glennda5id]

I don't think its worth doing the HG on an EZ30 if you are on the coast and can source a JDM for $800....

I am replacing the plugs, valve cover and tube seals and oil cooler seal on my JDM motor.

 

[medmunds]

@Glennda5id

Oiler cooler seal, glad you mention it.
May I ask you what needs doing for California smog compliance?

Thanks

 

[Glennda5id]

The engines are the exact same except the port for the brake booster is on the passenger side. You can swap intakes or extended your brake booster hose. I recommend extending the hose.

 

[medmunds]

@Glennda5id

Are the valve cover gaskets, tube seals & oil cooler seal best bought at a Subie dealer?

 

[Glennda5id]

The valve cover gaskets from Subaru are way overpriced in my opinion. The tube seals are $8 each and you need 6 and each cover gasket is $25. So you are looking at $100...

I bought the FelPro kit. They valve cover gasket is the felpro blue. The tube seal gaskets are black and are identical to the OE tube seals. Since they are not the Felpro Blue it makes me think they are OE tube seals. Anyways, the whole Felpro kit is $25. Felpro will be just fine for my 200k mile car.

The oil cooler gasket on rock auto is Mahle/Victor Reiz (who are high quality OE german suppliers) which is fine as well in my opinion. The OE part is cheap as well <$5 but not worth the time to source and it leaks anyways!

 

[eagleeye]

The oil cooler gasket on rock auto is Mahle/Victor Reiz (who are high quality OE german suppliers) which is fine as well in my opinion. The OE part is cheap as well <$5 but not worth the time to source and it leaks anyways!

I would take the oil cooler right off and put it on the bench and dig around in it with a pick to make sure it is clean.

I left my H6 cooler on the car and quickly slipped off the old and on with the new OEM cooler gasket. (also cheap to buy like the aftermarkets)

so I wished I put the thing on the bench and used some easy cheese style squrit RTV with it.

as today it leaks with the new one a little more then with the old one. OEM one seems a little looser even when slipping it on.. (maybe in a couple months I will take the whole thing off and do it right).

 

[Glennda5id]

Ensuring the surface is clean is key to ensuring a good seal!