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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
Picked up a Baja last week. First project is to swap the engine due to head gasket leak. It has 227km. This is the second HG leak as the heads were recently done. Car sat for about a year. I don't know how many times it overheated. The rad was also recently replaced along with the timing belt.
I have a few options.
1. JDM 2.0 $700 with 85,000km,
2. Same 2.5 eg251 sohc from Japan with 75,000km,
3. H6 3.0 - basically buy a running parts car for $1,000 and swap everything over.
4. Have the "maybe original" engine rebuilt for about $2,000.

What should I do??

I'm leaning towards option 1 because I can get it done this weekend.
I already started removing the engine. Noticed that the transmission came from a scrap yard in June 2014. If I do get the 2.0, I'm on the fence about replacing the timing belt because I don't know what other issues I'll have. I know it needs new front cv shafts, which I have.
 

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Hello all,
Picked up a Baja last week. First project is to swap the engine due to head gasket leak. It has 227km. This is the second HG leak as the heads were recently done. Car sat for about a year. I don't know how many times it overheated. The rad was also recently replaced along with the timing belt.
I have a few options.
1. JDM 2.0 $700 with 85,000km,
2. Same 2.5 eg251 sohc from Japan with 75,000km,
3. H6 3.0 - basically buy a running parts car for $1,000 and swap everything over.
4. Have the "maybe original" engine rebuilt for about $2,000.

What should I do??

I'm leaning towards option 1 because I can get it done this weekend.
I already started removing the engine. Noticed that the transmission came from a scrap yard in June 2014. If I do get the 2.0, I'm on the fence about replacing the timing belt because I don't know what other issues I'll have. I know it needs new front cv shafts, which I have.
none of those JDM ones have EGR. and american / Canadian bajas have it.
so at a minimum you would have to drill out the inlet port if those engine has the space for it.


rebuilding original for $2000 sounds good,

swapping a lot of stuff off a 2001-2004 H6 car is possible. lots of work and you would need them side by side. nice reward for the trouble.

(too hard and not enough reward for a 2005-2009 H6 though,...lots of changes ).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Worked on the Baja a bit tonight. Exhaust is disconnected. Already took the rad, fans, etc out. Now the old engine will come out once the dog bone and transmission are disconnected. I focused a bit on the crappy Sony radio. I was too curious as to why no sound from the speakers. I found an amp under the passenger side carpet and shady wiring. The amp wasn't bolted down and took up a lot of leg room. I tried to undo the passenger side axle nut, it wouldn't budge. I think I'll have to cut a channel into it and crack it.

If the jdm engine doesn't have an egr valve, I'll use the old intake manifold. The shop told me the newer engines are a direct swap, no changing manifold, pulleys, etc. That was only with the older engines.

I'll probably get the 2.0 just so I can get it running and driving this weekend. Maybe in the spring, I can either put the original rebuilt engine back in or swap a 3.0 in. Time and weather are against me right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Picked up the 2.0 on my way home from work. The estimates for a rebuild were in the $3k range and I would have to wait too long. Now that my kid is down I'm going out to work on the car.
 

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Picked up the 2.0 on my way home from work. The estimates for a rebuild were in the $3k range and I would have to wait too long. Now that my kid is down I'm going out to work on the car.
EJ20 N/A are really pokey for a car this heavy. (150hp???)

JDM retailers have them in huge quantities,...with no buyers. some people here have had problems getting the bugs worked out to properly tune one for a car that had a Ej251 type engine in it originally.

there was early discussion of buying one (and returning one) in this thread:

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/165417-engine-swap-us-jdm-ej251-diy-head-gaskets.html
 

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I put an EJ20 in my '03 Forester with MT. I didn't have any issues getting it running. My EJ20 had EGR put my car did not. I blanked the EGR port on the cylinder head with an oil drain plug. I don't have much issue with driving as far as power is concerned. I usually shift at 4k RPM when I go onto the freeway. I have heard that Outback Wagon's are kind of doggy with the EJ20 and Auto Trans.

I know some like getting a new short block from Subaru (around $2k) and then rebuild it with the parts from your original engine instead of putting in a used or JDM engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Pulled out the old engine today. Spent half the day gathering parts. Still short one exhaust flange nut. It will have to wait till Monday.

I had a hard time pulling out the motor. The torque converter got stuck and came most of the way out. I really hope I didn't damage anything or ruin the seal.

The new engine has a new water pump and timing belt. The plastic belt housing is cracked in the back, but I'm going to leave it. I'll put some epoxy over the crack. It also has an oil leak, I'm pretty sure at the valve covers, so I'm going to redo the gaskets before I put it in. Looks like oil was coming out of the spark plug tunnels. I had hoped to finish it tonight, as I'm doing this in my driveway. After looking it over, I might have to change the intake manifold. The throttle body is drive by wire. I don't know if I can just change the throttle body, I need to look into it more.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I should add that I'm aware of the power loss going this route. From what I could find its about 10hp and 50lb-ft of torque. The Baja weighs about 500lbs more than an outback/legacy of the same year, so I expect it to be extra doggy. I've had lots of gutless daily drivers. The point of this swap is just to get it road worthy. In the spring/summer I expect to have a better engine idea and more time/funds. If I want to go fast I can always drive my Daytona. I also have a MGB that I swapped the engine - 3.4 V6, T5 tranny, and shortened 8.8 Ford posi rear-end.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Changed the valve covers today before I installed the engine. There was a small amount of weird sludge on the bottom, but otherwise looks nice. I'll have to change the intake manifold and power steering pump as the wires and hoses don't match up. I was going to try to splice the wire harness so I could keep the manifold, but it might be too much trouble.
 

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I should add that I'm aware of the power loss going this route. From what I could find its about 10hp and 50lb-ft of torque. The Baja weighs about 500lbs more than an outback/legacy of the same year, so I expect it to be extra doggy. I've had lots of gutless daily drivers. The point of this swap is just to get it road worthy. In the spring/summer I expect to have a better engine idea and more time/funds. If I want to go fast I can always drive my Daytona. I also have a MGB that I swapped the engine - 3.4 V6, T5 tranny, and shortened 8.8 Ford posi rear-end.
does that Ej20 you got have EGR? if so what is the engine #.

I guess when spring comes, you can stick that EJ20 into something that it needs it:

 

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Discussion Starter #14
Not much work done since the last post. I can only really work on it for a few hours on the weekend or after my baby goes to bed. The weather hasn't been that good and I've been extremely busy with other things. I forgot to mention that the flywheel/flexplate also needs to be swapped. Definitely not a direct swap. The places I called asking for engines all said its a direct swap and nothing else needs to be done, that's a lie

I'm ready to install the intake manifold. There's a carbon build up in the heads. Like the intake was sucking oil (see picture). I don't think this is normal. I doubt the oil was changed often. I don't know where the engine number is, but I think it was built in 2015. The old engine looks very very clean. I should have just done the heads. I'll probably install the intake and plastic engine covers tonight, just to seal it up.
 

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JDM engines in general seem to come sooty inside. like used in the stop and go or parked idling for a/c and heat,
for more use in hours then the 40,000-60,000 miles estimate would suggest.

(tokyo actually leads the world in many clogged traffic statistics).


2012 or 2015 was probably the year the engine was taken out of service or put into inventory.

last of the EJ20 would have been made around 2010-2011. (last of them were put in a 12 JDM Xiga,
..as per screwed up Wikipedia, which I hate to quote)

....I would think that production was stopped to make FB20 which debuted at that time.

I was just wondering if there is EGR and is there a extra letter on the paperwork detailing which of the many of the you got:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine#EJ20
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It's been a while since my last post. I basically got everything back together. When I turned the key to start it last weekend, surprise surprise - it just kept cranking and didn't start!

I immediately knew what the problem was. I checked the codes = P0340 and P0336 (crank and cam sensor). I didn't want to believe it, so I installed the cam sensor from the original motor. The crank sensor is stuck in the block. Tried it again and same thing, no start.

So now I'm about to change the cam and crank pulleys. Yes, I'm doing the timing belt! I'm so pissed, words can't describe it. I've had time to cool off, but I'm still angry. How can all the places that sell these engines advertise these as a direct swap? I called the place 3 separate times, and each time I was told "just put it in and go, no need to swap anything". This was supposed to be the quickest option, but it's not because I was lied to. I totally would have spent more money for a direct swap! Why couldn't the place be honest with me? I don't get it. Are they going to reimburse me for the extra time I wasted - nope!

Do I regret spending several hours of my time more than I should have, only to have a smaller less powerful motor? Yes. I should have done the heads or stuck with the exact same motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I just finished changing the crank and cam pulley, and putting the car back together. The car runs! One step closer to driving it. I had to do it on the coldest night!

It now has check engine codes P0327, P0328, and P0340 (cam position sensor). The first 2 are knock sensor related. I did change the knock sensor over too. I wonder if these are all related, like it going into limp mode and running lean or rich causing a knock? Or maybe I damaged both sensors and should just replace them?

Next items to do are replace all the speakers (they are missing) and I need to go through the brakes. I'll put in larger side mirrors while I have the door panels off. Then a very good cleaning! And check diff fluids.

I already changed the passenger side cv shaft and checked all the lights, wipers, etc. Hopefully the drivers side cv is good.
 

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Today was productive. Managed to change the transmission fluid and filter. The old filter was on super tight, I basically destroyed it to get it off. I'll probably drive it for a bit and change it again as it was pretty dark. Mobile dextron IIIh is on clearance for $28 at my local parts place, so I'll have to pick up another 5lt jug. While I waited for the fluid to drain I replaced the burnt out license plate light bulbs. Also replaced the passenger side sway bar end link that I broke when I was doing the cv shaft.
While I had the car up I totally cleaned up the front brakes and replaced the rotors. I could use a new driver side caliper bracket as there's a grove from the pad pounding away at it (it's on my scrap yard list).
 

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Did a bit more work. When I disconnected and reconnected the battery the engine codes cleared. Drives pretty good. On my to do list now is to flush the transmission fluid, I over filled it a bit so I'll probably do that tonight. The power steering pump is sucking in air. I don't know if it's from the banjo fitting or the rubber hose, will address it tonight. Also need to install the speakers in the back doors and clean up the interior. My goal is to start driving it by Friday, a week after my original goal.
 
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