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2003 H6, info on changing crank pulley

4338 Views 5 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  CNY_Dave
Some goo is seeping out of a crack on the rubber insert on my crank pulley, and it's starting to rub the case.

Biggest piece of info I'm looking for- is there a magic spot on the flywheel where the crank can be held?

2nd- I assume the oil seal rides right on the pulley like on every other chain-driven cam engine?

I assume the pulley is different from the H4s.
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Some goo is seeping out of a crack on the rubber insert on my crank pulley, and it's starting to rub the case.

Biggest piece of info I'm looking for- is there a magic spot on the flywheel where the crank can be held?

2nd- I assume the oil seal rides right on the pulley like on every other chain-driven cam engine?

I assume the pulley is different from the H4s.
Maybe this can help: http://phantomotaku.com/SVX/011822-MSA5P0631C.pdf

As far as removing the pulley, the quickest and easiest way is with an impact set at low torque. Either a 3/8 or 1/2 drive version. Problem there is the radiator and fans are in the way.

The other way would be to remove the starter and wedge the torque converter in place via the gear teeth, but be careful with the placement of your wedge and be sure it holds the tooth well enough it won't break or chip it. (There is a tool made that works on other makes and models but its only available through vendors like Snap On and Matco. Its design is to grab a tooth and hold the crank still via the starter mount or through an access hole some transmission afford while you break loose the bolt.) You will come up with something. If you don't have an impact wrench, just think of something you have in your tool stash or garage that will work for a wedge. The teeth on the torque converter are tough and it will take a lot of force to chip them. Just think about how much torque they get when you start the car.

Good Luck.
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I got the pulley from the dealer, but I hope I don't need the oil seal or the bolt-cap, they didn't order them.

Looks like I'll be putting some silicone sealer on the crank before putting on the pulley so oil doesn't creep out (like on every other timing-chain engine).

My pulley holder fits OK, though.
Tool worked great, went smoothly, but I see my oil pan is rusted through and leaking!!!
Tool worked great, went smoothly, but I see my oil pan is rusted through and leaking!!!
At least its an easy enough pan to replace. Be sure to get the proper sealant. Permatex Ultra Grey for Japanese cars is available at the parts stores. You'll know you got the right one by the price. Its generally 3 times what the high temp RTV cost. It literally glues the parts together. Subaru refers to the sealant as "Fuji Bond".
Well, I'm paying for the dealer forgetting to order the oil seal and doing the job without it- now I get to do it all over again and put in a new oil seal.
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