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So two days ago my Subee decided to go kaput on me. So first of all, it wouldn't start, and I couldn't find my test meter at the time, so I charged battery with my little scooter charger. It never went from red to green, but after several hours I tried ignition, and it did nothing, but I could at least close ONE of my four open windows for the night in case of rain. Next day pretty much same thing, after recharging, would not start, but closed another window. Then found my meter (which was about to die due to low battery) and my 4 month old Duracell battery clocked in at 12.67V. Tried ignition again and it ALMOST turned over, then died. But THEN I couldn't get key out of ignition, in either P or N. Charged up again, raised up another window, and managed to get key out. But now coincidentally (?) shifter wouldn't go out of P. Noticed that the little plug to the upper right of the shifter was gone (not sure it was ever there), so shoved small screwdriver in there to be able to get out of P or back into it. Have checked all fuses, including the 50a and 100a (do you just check big one those visually, can't figure out how to pull them out and put on meter?) and all are fine. Cleaned battery and cable terminals again. When key is not in ignition, and I put hot lead onto battery, I don't see any spark, so don't think there's a drain while off. Incidentally, both of my Kymco scooters won't start, my ipad is a little screwed up, and my meter, so maybe everything got whacked by lightening.

I hope I didn't make a bad decision b/c about a month ago in a storm a big branch DID fall on the back of my car and State Farm totaled it, and when I looked for a replacement, they were all at least 1K MORE than I paid 7 years ago for this baby. [Maybe cuz of covid more peeps buying used cars when out of work? Or trump's steel trade war with China raised metal prices?] I live in ATL area and did find cheaper Subees three hours drive, so instead I decided to buy my own Subee back from SF for salvage for $500. But finding used parts for that vehicle did not prove easy or cheap. [Bout $400 so far including overpriced spray paint]. There was MINIMUM body work to do, mostly replacing rear lamps and bumper bent, etc. So now I am worried that I am getting punished for not letting my lil Subee go to crusher. What I have left to do is get a salvage title, get it inspected, and then get a rebuilt title, all for generous fees to Georgia MVB. But this is all moot if I can't get this thing running!! Any ideas on why so many small things are screwed up at once? It was running just fine, even after tree branch fell on it. Lemon battery? Battery place not so close, and I have no way to get there for them to check it. Thank you.
 

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2001 VDC/SC One of a Kind
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Check the ground connection at the block and make sure you have 0.00 ohms resistance.

Check the horn fuse. (I'M SERIOUS)

Other than that, also check the positive cable conductance to the fuse box.

Maybe disconnect the battery altogether and put the negative and positive cables together for about 20-30 minutes and then reconnect to the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well, i had already checked all the fuses, and the block is a 0 ohms. i did finally get it to start once, but it cut out pretty quick. :-(
 

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That leaves checking for a draw somewhere.
Do you have an aftermarket stereo?
Anything plugged in an electrical socket?
Are you getting a good ground to the body?

Since it started and stalled, have you checked the fuel pump? This is a year that tends to pop the pressure bowl o-ring. This doesn't explain the electrical problem, unless the fuel pump is the draw, but it is a possibility for a start and stall. Aside from poor electrical conductance.

Still no codes set????
 

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Something else I just thought of going over your post again. Did the car ever leave your property when the insurance totalled it?

And on a side: used car prices are high because new car production is down along with the economic slump caused by a mass amount of the people our of work. Lots of people coming in to buy cars who used to use cabs and Uber that need a way to/from work. School coming up also means a lot of students need wheels. All drive the market up. (I work in used cars and they are selling high at auctions all over the country. Higher than last year for identical cars.)
 

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oh yeah, speaking of codes, i have always had a code for the oxygen sensor (which i replaced and the CE light still came on), think it was P0240, and if i shut it off, it would come back in about 150 miles. so i have figured out that inspection time, i turn the CE light off, and drive my car just under 150, and take it to inspection, and it passes. too early and it will say 'needs more driving', too late and light comes on. well, the reason i am telling you all this is b/c now the light is off. maybe it resets when you disconnect the battery?? will check into fuel pump, hope its in a somewhat accessible location...
 

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oh, and thx for the explain on car prices. i think also a big metro town like ATL will have higher prices. i found cheaper deals in like Winston-Salem and Louisville. but to drive that far to look at a car that might have problems... and also, my car drove just FINE after the tree limb fell on it, it only destroyed all the rear lamps (the one that goes completely across the rear lift was a PAIN to find and not cheap, corner ones not so bad) and the bumper, which i have tried banging out so it will be level again. only one small place to do a bit of bondo on the corner. i had the exact same car, not an LLB, that i owned before this one and it got totalled too. but i bought it with 265K miles on it!! it never gave me a problem. but it was also a 3.0. my research before buying said that do NOT buy a 4 cyl outback in those general years cuz they burn head gaskets, and even when replaced, burn them again. so i am sure that last one would've gone another 100K easily... :)
 

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Disconnecting the battery does reset the codes on the ECM.

I think you mean p0420. Catalyst efficiency code. The link in my signature has a whole lot of information just on that code.

Nothing wrong with a 4-cylinder if it's had the multi-layer steel gaskets put in after the OEM single layer steel gaskets start leaking oil.

The fuel pump is accessed on the right side of the car under the back seat. Lift the seat bottom up toward the front seats and you'll see an access panel four Phillips head screws hold it down. The fuel pump module is held down with eight millimeter nuts. the access panel on the left side of the car is for the transfer pump and level sensor only, you don't have to worry about that one.
 

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i clicked on your name, but couldn't figure out how to find a link to p0420. i am new to this site, so is there a way you could send me a direct link? i mean, i think i have a way around it by doing my little trick, but i wouldn't mind actually making the code go away. i really don't think there's a problem, the 02 sensor was replaced on that side (is there another code for just the sensor on the left side? i am not positive about 0420...)
 

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i clicked on your name, but couldn't figure out how to find a link to p0420. i am new to this site, so is there a way you could send me a direct link? i mean, i think i have a way around it by doing my little trick, but i wouldn't mind actually making the code go away. i really don't think there's a problem, the 02 sensor was replaced on that side (is there another code for just the sensor on the left side? i am not positive about 0420...)
 

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'03 Outback H6-3.0 Black Granite Pearl, base model with cold weather package and cloth seats.
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Using Firefox on a Windows 10 desktop, I don't see the link either.
 

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OK sorry i didn't notice it down there. maybe a simple fix would to buy premium gas for a month or two before inspection time. what grade of gas would you recommend for everyday? then as i have time, i can check all the things on your extensive list, if indeed one of them could mess up the CC. thanks a lot.
 

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Using Firefox on a Windows 10 desktop, I don't see the link either.
that's EXACTLY what happened to me!! then when i looked at his screen shot from a phone, i figured, why not try it on my ipad, and there it was!! but the WEIRDER thing is once i did it on my ipad, now it shows on PC!! go figure...
 

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All the H6 engines should use high octane. Down here in Texas we have 93 as the Premium Unleaded option and it runs in all my cars. Even the EJ253 which gets great fuel mileage on it.
 
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